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dm800

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  1. Thanks for all your help. I found some products online with the 99% sodium bromide and went to a local store to get some so I can drain this tomorrow, and I asked for it and they sold me a couple of pouches of some stuff called Arctic Pure Peak Boost. It does not say what it contains on the label, but they told me you add it when changing the water. Anyways, I looked it up on the web when I got home and found that it contains 14.7% sodium bromide and 52.7% sodium dichlor. Well, anyways, not exactly what I thought it was, but I guess it will be better to start the bromine than just the tabs. I'll be sure to order some of the 99% stuff for next time. But I guess I still should just add this, then add shock, then add the tabs later, right? Thank you again for the help, and I will try to test and add shock more consistently this time and see what happens.
  2. Thanks, that does help. I have noticed that on some other posts about leaving the cover open, and I have never done that, so that could be part of the problem why it was high after I shocked. I used to just add it, cover it back up, and run the pumps. So from now on I guess I should leave it open for a half hour while the pumps are running. The sodium bromine is the step I didn't do last time, I just put in the tabs and shocked it. I don't have any of that, but what exactly is that? Would that be the brominating concentrate that Spaguard makes (I noticed in the ingredients it says 14.7% sodium bromine, and the rest sodium dichlor), or is there something else I should get?
  3. Hmmm, that sounds like it makes sense. I have never taken the floater out, and although I didn't test it weekly, I would maybe every 2 weeks or so and there was always a slight bromine reading at around 1-2, so it never spiked from just the tabs. I think I will drain it tomorrow and refill it and then test the water more frequently to see what happens. Then by that time maybe some others will add to the post. To start it out though, you just put the floater in and add shock right away dont you? I think thats what I did last time but I don't remember for sure.
  4. Hi all. About 6 months ago I bought a house that had a hot tub and I have learned most of the things about it from these forums. At that time I drained and refilled it and the water always seemed clear and clean to me, but I will admit I did not shock it or test it weekly. There are two of us that use it maybe only once a week, sometimes not even that much, so that is probably why I slacked a bit and don't know if I need to change the water every 3 months since I don't use it that much, but figure I better change it now that its been 6 months. Anyways, I have been using the Spa Guard bromine tabs and Enhanced Shock, and put some shock in there a week ago right after I used it, and a week later I tested it and the strips are still showing off the scale (at 20). When I add the shock, should the cover be open for awhile while the jets are running? I dont know if this has anything to do it with it, but also the last time I tested it a week ago, the alkalinity was way down to below 40 and so I ordered some more increaser, and before I added it yesterday, it was down to 0. So I am going to drain and refill it, and I am all stocked up on chems now so this time I will try to make sure I test and shock it weekly. I am curious though why the bromine levels stayed high for a week, and just wanted any other tips to make sure I do it properly this time. Thanks.
  5. Does the same thing go for bromine shock? I have been using the Spaguard Enhanced Shock (probably not doing it as much as I should but plan to start doing it weekly), but I did it about 4 days ago and the bromine levels on the test strips are still off the chart. Do I need to be leaving the lid open when I add this? Generally, 2 of us use the hot tub once a week maybe, and it has not been used nor has the lid been open since I added that shock 4 days ago.
  6. Ok, its a 2001 Dimension One Aurora II. It is new to me because I just bought this house and it had it there. It appeared as if the previous owners maintained it as it was pretty clean, they left lots of chemicals, receipts, manuals, etc. Anyways, I just drained and refilled it for the first time, and didn't notice these in there. Then we used it that day, and the next day I saw one at the bottom and another one near one of the jets in the lounge area. They are about 3/4 inch diameter and they are pretty round but there are some parts that aren't completely shiny so they look used.
  7. I drained and refilled the hot tub the other day and then used it later that day, then the next day found a couple of small o-rings in the bottom of the tub. Should that be of concern? Any idea where they came from? They look the about the size of jets.
  8. I'll give that a try next time. Thanks for the tip. So when there is an airlock, does it occur on the outlet side of the pump or on the intake side?
  9. I just drained and refilled my spa that I just acquired for the first time and had an air lock in one of the pumps. I was trying to loosen the unions like it stated in the manual but couldnt get enough leverage on them to turn them, but then I noticed a couple thumbscrews on the pump and found that let the air out. Are those bleeder valves on the pump so you don't have to loosen the unions? I also read where it says to open the bleeder valves in the skimmer area when you are filling, but should I have those open the entire time from when I start draining it until it is full again? I didn't think to open those when I was draining it, but would that help? One final thing, I see my spa has two pumps, and then a small pump which I am guessing is just for the heat or for circulation. Is that prone to air lock as well? I have never even seen the inside of a hot tub control equipment area before but it is rewarding to do this myself and save hundreds, thanks to the help of everyone in the forum.
  10. A local dealer had it for $350 as well. Any ideas on places where I might be able to find that for a lot cheaper? If it doesn't bother you and it is still functioning fine then don't bother. I bet you can get that panel for alot less than 400....more like 100 maybe 2
  11. I just bought a house that has a hot tub and have been here a little over a month and just now am having time to mess around with it. I am going to drain and refill it, but just wanted to check what other chemicals I need to buy. The shell is not very dirty at all, there is just a slight water line that wiped right off. But I read somewhere where soft scrub or baking soda is safe to use on the tub I have so I might wipe down the inside too while its empty. These are the following Spa Guard chemicals that were left here: Enhanced Shock Total Alkalinity Increaser pH Increaser pH Decreaser Stain and Scale Control Calcium Hardness Increaser Anti Foam I notice there is no bromine or cholorine here. There was a bromine kit box left behind so maybe they used bromine. But what would be the best way to go? The hot tub is located on the deck with no gazebo over it or anything, and it is probably just going to be two of us using it, and I don't think we would use it everyday so it will remain covered most of the time. Maybe a few times a week or so. I think I read somewhere in the forums where bromine tablets are good for occasional use. As far as the water here, I think the natural pH of it is about 8 because I have a fish tank and the water is always around 8. So before I go and drain and refill it, I need to pick up a few more chemicals so please let me know what else I need or any other tips. Thanks!
  12. Actually, now that I read the whole manual, I don't think it is really urgent to replace this. I can still see the temperature, and I can kind of make out some of messages. Is it suitable just to keep it at all the factory settings as far as cycle time, duration, etc.? It seems everything works ok, its just the LCD is very faded, and it looks like there is a crack under the inlay, but the inlay is intact and no water leaked under it, so does that sound fine just to hold off on this until I have an extra $400 to spend?
  13. I have a 2001 D1 Aurora II and the LCD panel is cracked and very faded where I can hardly read it. I got a couple quotes of $200-$300 for the part and about $125 for labor, but was wondering if it is fairly simple to do. Is it just a matter of pulling out the old one and plugging in the cable? Do you have to pull the whole front panel off, or is it just siliconed in where you would just cut the seal out from under the old one and pull it straight out and seal in the new one?
  14. That sounds like a plan. I don't know if this is something you can answer or not, but right now it must be programmed to turn off and on because I hear it go on once in awhile. If I disconnect the power to drain it, will I have to reprogram it again, or will it continue to run on occasion by itself? My concern is if I do have to program it, I won't be able to because of the LCD being illegible. I'd drain it and clean/replace the filter and call spa dealerships that are close and start asking for prices. I bought a Sundance spa a few years ago and they still come out for free.
  15. Ok that sounds like a good idea. Should I drain and clean it before they come out? Any idea how much it usually costs to have someone come out and check it out?
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