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wa5pcg

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  1. Hi all, Heater is 10 years old. Had good luck with it - only had to replace the hi limit switches in the last 10 years. Recently, the heater would not light up. Figured it was the ignitor. Took out the burner tray and found the entire far end support bracket was completely rusted - the ignitor was laying on the bottom of the cabinet since the bracket holding it in place had completely disintegrated. The rough edges of the rusted metal had also cut through the ignitor wires. Not sure if it is worthwhile to fix this. I can only seem to find a replacement burner tray for about $900 - I can't find just the bracket that is rusted. Plus, I am wondering if anything in the controls could have been damaged by the fault current when the ignitor wire shorted to the burner support bracket. On top of that, I noticed that the insulation on the far side of the cabinet is wet - wondering if I have a leak in the heat exchanger also. So many unknowns and the age of the heater are making me nervous about dumping any money into it. So, I have two questions: 1) what recommendation would anyone have on a replacement unit? Brand? Model? 2) if I did try to rig up a way to mount the ignitor back on the rusted bracket just to see if it will light up, which way does it mount? Towards the outside, or towards the burners? The Jandy part breakdown is not clear on this. Thanks in advance for any advice, George
  2. Thanks for the reply PC. It is a salt water pool and about 3 years after it was installed, the heater would not work and was giving a high limit fault. The series path for the hi limit switches was open, and after removing them, I observed that they were corroded all of the way through the metal cover of the switch. I replaced them and everything worked for about 6 months and then the same problem with the switches corroded through again. I found this blog which describes the problem to a T. Basically, it says that the brass plugs that the hi limits physically contact for thermal transfer are being corroded by the salt water which allows th salt water to leak past them and corrode the switches. My link The part that covers the Jandy heater and the replacement brass plug kit, part number R0383200 is toward the bottom of the blog page. Likethe guy writing the blog, I live in Dallas. I tore it apart this morning and the brass nuts used to hold the plugs in the holes feel apart into little pieces. The plugs were not as bad but, with the nuts disinteregrated, there was nothing holding it together but the corrosion itself. It is a bit of a chore to get the thing apart but I managed. I am about to reassemble everything this afternoon. I must admit that it seems damn ironic to be working on a pool heater when the temperature in Dallas today is well over 100F. :-) It sounds like this issue may not have been discussed much on this forum. I am considering taking pictures of the process to help others in the future - it depends on if me or the camera melts in this heat before hand. :-)
  3. The breaker trips due to a fault current between line (hot) and neutral. The GFCI trips due to a current between either line or neutral and protective earth ground. Look for a overload between the line and neutral.
  4. Hi all, new to the forum. I am about to undertake the replacement of my hi limits switches in my Jandy LX/LT heater this weekend. As this will be the second set in a short time, I will also be replacing the brass plugs with the reapir kit, R0383200. My specific question is, will I need any other materials, like ssilcone sealants and such, in performing this job. If so, I want to run out and get everything I need beforehand. More generally, if anyone has done this repair and can offer any good advice, I would be all ears and much appreciative. Thanks in advance.
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