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dlzc

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  1. I disagree, the older Del CD chips only lasted for 6 months to a year. All Ozones have Maximum hours that they run, they all need to be replaced. the advantage over bulbs is the cost to run them. Newer ozones seem to be getting better and better, but don't be fooled thing a CD does not need to be replaced regularly. Corona discharge units make an order of magnitude more ozone in a unit of gas. In doing this, they use a much smaller gap than is used in UV systems. Consequently, they get gummed up really quickly if the air prep system does not provide very dry air (-100 degF dewpoint is not uncommon). Additionally, the power supplies can also be folded up by water backing up into the cells, or power with lots of voltage spikes. For a larger ozone system (large pool, municipal), it is not unusual to run for up to decades without significant replacements, as long as the generator is taken out of service and cleaned. So I'd suggest all *inexpensive* ozone generators may require replacements in some "maximum hours", but not all ozone generators do.
  2. It is most common to place and eductor / injector downstream of the pump that pushes flow either through the filter, or through the pool /spa for recirculation. This component converts water flow speed for pressure, allowing it to pull a vaccum, and draw in a fluid (such as liquid chemical feeds, air, or ozone). Del units also require some vacuum (usually) to operate, so that ozone made cannot leak to atmosphere accidentally. Do you have one of these? If not, can you sketch out a little better what you have from the water through the system, back to water? The check valves may be on the suction side of the pump, and they may be trying to provide a vacuum on that side of the pump, but I sure would not bring a pump closer to cavitation, and then throw gas bubbles in to boot.
  3. I have reviewed the manuals at www.calspas.com, and found that this unit is for portable spas, it is UV based, and depends on a solid state ballast (part of the cartridge). Replacing the cartridge *is* replacing ozone generator. The questions are: 1) is there a fuse that might be blown? 2) is it connected to a circuit that is hot (a lamp or fan turns on here)? 3) what size is your spa? If it is too large, you'll need a bigger unit anyway, working or not. I'd recommend calling Cal Spas, and asking them what is the largest spa they recommend this unit for, then deciding what to do.
  4. In your sketch above, you show the flow backwards through the injector. The "short fat" side is simply to trade speed for pressure. The long tapered side is the pressure recovery region, and is critical to proper function. No matter whose injector you buy. Mazzei's have flow arrows embossed in... http://www.mazzei.net/?q=injectors
  5. Thanks for those references, those are good, especially the decay of free chlorine. Bromate / chlorate formation is hardly an issue, since ozone is typically (or shoudl be) applied just prior to a filter, where the C*T is then very low. And "no one" drinks this water routinely... Ozone and chlorine is contraindicated, but ozone and bromine works.
  6. The ozone generator pushes air-with-ozone into the water. When the bubbles leave solution with less ozone in them, they carry chorine gas (essentially) away with them. The ozone in general does not touch chlorine directly. Bromine, yes, ozone reactivates bromide ion to hypobromous acid. But ozone and chlorine systems are not "synergistic". You already have good answers, just thought I'd touch this implied "where'd the chlorine go".
  7. You have a really good response from hot_water, so I'll add another "cent"... So what they are saying is they have a higher recirculation rate, use more electricity, use larger piping, and end up taking more room "under the hood", to use a generic pump designed for multiple uses. You'll pay more to operate it, and possibly less to replace it / them. The higher flow rates do the filtering, not the ozonator. The ozone is added to the water, so it does actually "enter the water"... but you / he probably meant "enter the pool proper". Adding more ozone, then killing it immediately will NOT reduce chemical usage, and will consume more power. Additionally, the offgas from a larger ozone generator is *nontrivial*... you will have to maintain the carbon filter they use for offgas destruction. You will save chemicals by using an ozonator, by your choice of secondary sterilant, and by good stewardship. Like as not, they will run the larger ozone generator less often... and if they don't, it will end up costing you more money than a competing unit (which sounds like a UV-based one, whereas the one they quote sounds like corona-based). Make sure you get a dealer that is reputable, and that is not on his "last legs". No matter what brand you get, you will get support form someone other than the salesman... Meet them.
  8. Ozone can be stripped from the water by either jets or waterfall. Turns out some ozone is made by waterfalls too. Ozone stripped from water is a breathing hazard. Obviously, since the generator is turning on and off, the generator is being controlled. Most likely "the board" is doing this... it would be too expensive to have two "bosses".
  9. Not in clear pipe, no. It will cease to be clear pipe over a year or two, and start leaking shortly thereafter. Could you make your own out of regular PVC? You will get marginally more mass transfer, depending on what chemcials are being attacked by ozone. As someone said, you could make it yourself for $100 or less. The eductor is a good step, I used to work (indirectly) for Mazzei. They are the eductor most copied by the Chinese, and used in bottled water and municipal ozone applications.
  10. Mazzei Injector Corporation makes injectors... will look like a small plastic tee: http://www.mazzei.net/ http://www.mazzei.net/products/injector_info.htm ... probably either black or "sky blue". The injector will cost the manufacturer between $20 and $50 (depending). The pipe keeps the bubbles in the presence of water for a little longer, and moving fast enough to stay sheared into small size. This allows for more ozone to be transferred into the water, meaning less ozone wasted into the air later. Some processes that consume ozone take time (like sterilization and oxidizing organics). For these processes, this contacting means is a marginally better one. Clear PVC pipe fails pretty quickly when ozone is present. Either have them give you a "two year" warranty, or have them sell you boring white or gray piping for this feature. Should be cheaper, since clear PVC is pretty pricey. For what it is worth, ozone contacting in municipal systems (even large pools) costs almost as much as the ozone generation equipment.
  11. I don't study microbiology, but I used to work for a couple of companies that applied ozone to, among other things, pool water. And I do not own stock in any particular company... You have a few extra adjectives in the description of ozone that raises my hackles. Ozone kills at minimum the same "bugs" that chlorine does, does it faster, and does it with less concentration. Ozone decays to dissolved oxygen, it does not stay in "hydrogen peroxide state" for more than a very few seconds. If kill occurs rapidly, it does so as ozone (E. coli). Too many organisms have developed a means of staving off H2O2, even producing it during "normal operations". If you need the H2O2 reaction, you can apply ozone and hit it with a strong UV light source. And ozone is not applied is a carrier that adds hardness or TDS to the water. My comment about ozone and chlorine "working together" was meant this way: * the carrier gas for ozone delivery strips chlorine gas too, * ozone does not "reactivate" chlorine the way it reactivates bromine. Rather that ozone helping a chlorine system, it costs more. Whereas with a bromine system, it ends up saving money, because you "recycle" the bromine.
  12. If the ozone generator is blowing offgas into your pool/spa, then ozone and any other gasses (such as chlorine) will strip out, and collect under your cover. Not sure what sense it makes to cover something you are blowing air inside... unless it is balloons. Ozone should be applied based on ORP, when there is stuff for it to oxidize, and not based on "every time this pump runs". Setting a timer after you leave the pool for a certain dose would probably be a happy medium. And sorry I am not Deus66...
  13. Ozone will not soften water. Bromine will last longer in spas or pools, and ozone will reactivate bromide ion to hypobromous acid. If you don't think bromine "stinks", then you can acheive your goal. If you add less chemical, then maintaining the hardness and pH becomes easier / cheaper. Ozone kills bacteria differently than chlorine (and bromine). It lyses the fat packets that the bacterium breathes through, and they "bleed" to death. The chlorine just poisons the cells, which takes more chlorine and more time. If the ozone generator is big enough to add detectable levels of ozone to the pool / spa, be sure you ask them to show the ozone destruct unit for preventing toxic / out-of-compliance levels of ozone offgassing when the jets or aerator are turned on. And I can smell ozone on my skin and in my clothes (but I don't think this "stinks"). Do not try and use chlorine with ozone... the extra gas will try and strip the chlorine from solution (costing more), and they are not particularly "holistic"... they tend not to help one another. You will still have to do maintenance. There is no reason you *must* stink when getting out of an all-chlorine pool / spa, or have hardness issues, unless maintenance is not being performed. Ozone will not eliminate maintenance... only make it less frequent. My two cents.
  14. I made some assumptions, and they were wrong. An eductor is a simple device that uses motive flow to pull a vacuum. This vacuum could be used to do something like pull flow through a brominator. I guess your brominator is the critter with the black wrench on it. If so, then the brominator's flow is driven by the differential pressure across (at least) the filter. Bromine will not survive long in a water sample, especially if the water is warm. You indicate that the pool shop shows 0.0. Bromine should show up on a standard pool test kit as free chlorine (I think...). You could verify this yourself. Maybe there is someone new checking your pool chemistry, or they changed the indicator system they use... and they made a mistake. Are you having algae problems, or what do you mean by "the problem showed up"? Hardness / alkalinity can sometimes affect how tablet brominators work, is this in the normal range for your pool, compared with previous years?
  15. There is a grey pipe shown coming up out of the pump (center frame). There is a black line approaching this grey pipe. Is this the ozone inlet? I do not recognize the brand, but comparing this to Mazzei eductors, the water inlet side is closer to the gas suction port than the water outlet port is. IF this "grey pipe" is the eductor, and IF brand is similar in geometry, the eductor is backwards.
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