DesertDave Posted July 30, 2009 Report Share Posted July 30, 2009 Recently bought a house with pool with a 5yr old Jandy Aquapure1400. Acid cleaned the cell, cleaned the sensor, opened up control box and checked all voltages. I can only get the cell to come on intermittently. It will routinely turn off after varying periods of time and the display will throw code 170 followed by 193, activiate the service light, and turn the cell off. If the cell comes on and stays on for any length of time, or if I "force" it on by resetting/changing the salinity calibration, it seems to be making chlorine. Help.... bad cell, bad sensor, bad ft. card??? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Clown Posted July 30, 2009 Report Share Posted July 30, 2009 Don't think its a bad cell. Bad sensor? Maybe, only because I've recently had a rash of those going out. Front board... While those two codes show the front board to be the cause, I've replaced very few of these. Double check your voltage readings with their proper voltages (printed on the circuit board). Hate to tell you to get a front board and have it not fix the problem. Thats one luxury that i get to enjoy in being able to swap out parts to fix the unit. Usually, the codes are accurate but once in a while they get me scratching my head. If you have got some spare time, Call Jandy and see what they say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DesertDave Posted July 31, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2009 All the voltages check out except that the cell voltage is between 30 and 31vdc vs 28vdc expected and the ft brd cell current voltage is about 100mv vs the 120mv expected. Does that provide any more of a clue? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quantumchromodynamics Posted July 31, 2009 Report Share Posted July 31, 2009 Here is the Jandy manual for the Aquapure 1400. Code: 170 Possible Front board service condition or unit not correctly wired to 120 VAC Code: 173 Low VAC input voltage and on board power supply is not regulated or unit not correctly wired I don't see a code 193. Did you mean 173? The Aquapure can be wired for 120 volt or 240 volt AC. At 120 volts AC, the current should be less than 2.5 amps. At 240 volts AC, the current draw should be less than 1.25 amps. The Output should be between 22 to 30 Volts DC with a maximum current of 6 Amps. To determine the power output, multiply the voltage by the current to get power in Watts. I think that the codes are indicating that the board is not wired correctly for the input voltage. "Factory wired for 240 VAC service. If available electrical service is 120 VAC, the power supply wiring must be changed to operate on 120 VAC as shown in the wiring diagram below. (Figure 2.)" What is the input voltage and what input voltage is the board wired for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DesertDave Posted July 31, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2009 System is wired for and hooked up to 120vac. Yup, it's codes 170 and 193. The Maintainer's Manual Pool Clown has previously posted calls this combination out (Jandy manual doesn't ref 193) and says "replace front board". However, all the voltages check out and I can occasionally get the cell to come on so I'm reluctant to actually spring for a new ft board. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quantumchromodynamics Posted July 31, 2009 Report Share Posted July 31, 2009 Is this the troubleshooting guide that you have? Code: 170 Possible Front board service condition or unit not correctly wired to 120 VAC Code: 193-Measured significant cell current when SCRs were turned off (generates 170 code –Front board service). SCR (Silicon-controlled rectifier or semiconductor-controlled rectifier is a solid-state device that controls current.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quantumchromodynamics Posted July 31, 2009 Report Share Posted July 31, 2009 Troubleshooting -Front Board Guide Disconnect the flow salinity temp sensor from the front board. Press and hold the test buttons marked salinity and R-temp. While still pressing the test buttons press the ‘Salinity ’key (‘C’) on the front cover of the unit. The LCD should read 2.8 gpl*. While still holding the two front board test buttons press the ‘Pool Temperature’ key (‘D’). It should read 75°F or 24°C. Next, press and hold the board ‘H-Temp’ test button, and at the same time press the ‘Salinity’ key (‘C’) together with the ‘Chlorine Production Rate’ arrow down key (‘A’) on the front cover of the unit. The LCD should read 91°F or 33°C. If the readings are correct then the front board is O.K. and the problem is with the flow sensor. On the other hand, if the readings are different, then it indicates that there is a problem with the front board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
partycattin Posted February 19, 2011 Report Share Posted February 19, 2011 I’m having a similar problem. Code 170 is displaying. Cleaned the unit, checked the connections. I ran the trouble shooting listed above and got: 1) 2.8 gpl = good 2) 74 degrees instead of 75 3) 91 degrees = good Is being off 1 degree on the second test enough of an indicator? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dbtman Posted March 20, 2011 Report Share Posted March 20, 2011 I too am having a 170 code on my 4 1/2 year old Jandy 1400... I have cleaned the cell and the sensor. I have run the above recommended test but I did not receive any output. The screen continued to show 170 and beep every 30 seconds or so. I am coming to the conclusion that it has to be the front board (even though Pool Clown said that is rarely the case). Any other ideas? I really appreciate the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ascerda Posted March 22, 2011 Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 I have a 4 yr old Aquapure 1400 and am having the same problems as everyone else. I first got a 172 code. Cleaned the cell and sensor, reconnected everything and now get a constant 170. I checked the voltage from the backboard to cell and get a lower voltage than recommended value. Also, my cell on light doesn't come on at all. I did the self test for the front board and got an "H-Temp" value of 74 instead of 75 like the other guy. I have followed the trouble shooting guide to the letter and am more confused by it than when I started. By their manual it could be one of 3 things that cost a total of about $700. I kind of feel like it's the back board but the self test says the front board. Also, mine is wired for 230V but I checked the input voltage and found it's 115V. Do I need to rewire this thing too? I'm calling Jandy and will repost what they can or can't help me with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ascerda Posted March 22, 2011 Report Share Posted March 22, 2011 I have a 4 yr old Aquapure 1400 and am having the same problems as everyone else. I first got a 172 code. Cleaned the cell and sensor, reconnected everything and now get a constant 170. I checked the voltage from the backboard to cell and get a lower voltage than recommended value. Also, my cell on light doesn't come on at all. I did the self test for the front board and got an "H-Temp" value of 74 instead of 75 like the other guy. I have followed the trouble shooting guide to the letter and am more confused by it than when I started. By their manual it could be one of 3 things that cost a total of about $700. I kind of feel like it's the back board but the self test says the front board. Also, mine is wired for 230V but I checked the input voltage and found it's 115V. Do I need to rewire this thing too? I'm calling Jandy and will repost what they can or can't help me with. **Just talked to Jandy(aka Zodiac) and if you are 1 degree off on the "H-Temp" reading you're fine. Mine was 74 vice 75. My problem may be the backboard, hopefully. The guy also said that most installers don't tell you that the cell typically lasts about 4 years and you have to replace it due to degradation from your makeup water and pool chemistry. Part costs $600-800. Lovely to find that out!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awwtbone Posted March 23, 2011 Report Share Posted March 23, 2011 I have a 4 yr old Aquapure 1400 and am having the same problems as everyone else. I first got a 172 code. Cleaned the cell and sensor, reconnected everything and now get a constant 170. I checked the voltage from the backboard to cell and get a lower voltage than recommended value. Also, my cell on light doesn't come on at all. I did the self test for the front board and got an "H-Temp" value of 74 instead of 75 like the other guy. I have followed the trouble shooting guide to the letter and am more confused by it than when I started. By their manual it could be one of 3 things that cost a total of about $700. I kind of feel like it's the back board but the self test says the front board. Also, mine is wired for 230V but I checked the input voltage and found it's 115V. Do I need to rewire this thing too? I'm calling Jandy and will repost what they can or can't help me with. **Just talked to Jandy(aka Zodiac) and if you are 1 degree off on the "H-Temp" reading you're fine. Mine was 74 vice 75. My problem may be the backboard, hopefully. The guy also said that most installers don't tell you that the cell typically lasts about 4 years and you have to replace it due to degradation from your makeup water and pool chemistry. Part costs $600-800. Lovely to find that out!! Hey all. I have been reading your comments and they have been quite helpful thus far. After receiving an error code of 120 121 171 172 on my unit, I decided to replace my AquaPure 1400 cell entirely. Within 48 hours after installation, I have thrown the code 170 and 193. I just need to determine if this is related to the Front Board or the Back Board. I am unable to do the above tests since I am out of the state for the next week. When I return, I am only given 48 hours to complete the task. I will be glad to post my findings throughout this process with hopes that I can aid someone in the future. Thanks in advance Awwtbone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Clown Posted March 23, 2011 Report Share Posted March 23, 2011 The guy also said that most installers don't tell you that the cell typically lasts about 4 years and you have to replace it due to degradation from your makeup water and pool chemistry. Part costs $600-800. Lovely to find that out!! Thats rich.... We don't tell customers that because Jandy/Zodiak doesn't tell us that! We have to learn that by experience and even then, that may, or may not be accurate information. If you sold a product that is only going to last about 4 to 5 years, and has a price tag of over 700 dollars, would you tell your customer that he will have to replace it every 4 years? Most of them go out in about 5 years. If the cause were make up water and chemistry, things that can be controlled, wouldn't you think less of them would die from this? Their logic is trying to tell me everyones pool chemistry is way off. I don't think so. eNd ranT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ascerda Posted March 24, 2011 Report Share Posted March 24, 2011 The guy also said that most installers don't tell you that the cell typically lasts about 4 years and you have to replace it due to degradation from your makeup water and pool chemistry. Part costs $600-800. Lovely to find that out!! Thats rich.... We don't tell customers that because Jandy/Zodiak doesn't tell us that! We have to learn that by experience and even then, that may, or may not be accurate information. If you sold a product that is only going to last about 4 to 5 years, and has a price tag of over 700 dollars, would you tell your customer that he will have to replace it every 4 years? Most of them go out in about 5 years. If the cause were make up water and chemistry, things that can be controlled, wouldn't you think less of them would die from this? Their logic is trying to tell me everyones pool chemistry is way off. I don't think so. eNd ranT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ascerda Posted March 24, 2011 Report Share Posted March 24, 2011 The guy also said that most installers don't tell you that the cell typically lasts about 4 years and you have to replace it due to degradation from your makeup water and pool chemistry. Part costs $600-800. Lovely to find that out!! Thats rich.... We don't tell customers that because Jandy/Zodiak doesn't tell us that! We have to learn that by experience and even then, that may, or may not be accurate information. If you sold a product that is only going to last about 4 to 5 years, and has a price tag of over 700 dollars, would you tell your customer that he will have to replace it every 4 years? Most of them go out in about 5 years. If the cause were make up water and chemistry, things that can be controlled, wouldn't you think less of them would die from this? Their logic is trying to tell me everyones pool chemistry is way off. I don't think so. eNd ranT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ascerda Posted March 24, 2011 Report Share Posted March 24, 2011 Pool clown- not trying to step on any toes just passing on the info from Zodiac. If I made a product that was wildly popular and I knew was going to cost the homeowner $700 every 5 years or so I probably wouldn't say anything to the installers or customers either. Go capitalism! They did send me their technicians troubleshooting manual and the self test on the front board has some parameters associated with each number and if you're one off your good. My problem is the back board. Their manual clearly stated if voltage was off, replace the card. The other one I have says nothing about it. Once again, good on Zodiac for keeping that secret too. I have been chasing my tail for a week trying to get a clear answer and finally got it. I would upload it but not real sure how. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Clown Posted March 24, 2011 Report Share Posted March 24, 2011 I know, i was ranting to the Jandy guy that obviously couldn't hear me. It is nearing pool season, and the thought of working on those for the next 7 or so months isn't getting me too excited. Especially since they discontinued the old cell and replacing a new cell involves re-plumbing and charging more for the cell because now the cell AND the sensor are sold together. Can't wait... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PoolGuyNJ Posted March 24, 2011 Report Share Posted March 24, 2011 Typically, a cell's life span when newly installed is about the same as tabs cost due to the PSU. The second cell typically affords the homeowner some savings vs tabs. pH increaser use typically is negligible with a cell and those dollars go to acid, which I have found to be less expensive for those that don't know about or use A&H Super Washing Soda (same stuff). Cells, when you boil down to it , are merely a more convenience chlorination method. Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djb467 Posted April 29, 2011 Report Share Posted April 29, 2011 Is the cell life true for all cells or just the Jandy's? I am getting ready to replace a goldline chlorinator that was here when we bought the house six years ago. It worked ok until the middle of last summer. The previous homeowners did very little work in the 2-3 years before they sold, so I'm guessing the chlorinator is at least 7-10 years old. I was debating between the Jandy and the Hayward. The warranty on the Jandy is better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Clown Posted April 29, 2011 Report Share Posted April 29, 2011 It boils down to hours the cell is producing. If i'm not mistaken, they claim about 10,000 hrs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Home Pool Boy Posted July 12, 2014 Report Share Posted July 12, 2014 Im having a similar problem. Code 170 is displaying. Cleaned the unit, checked the connections. I ran the trouble shooting listed above and got: 1) 2.8 gpl = good 2) 74 degrees instead of 75 3) 91 degrees = good Is being off 1 degree on the second test enough of an indicator? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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