D0TC

Tim, that's the best thing to do

Yes I've come across this problem, about 200 times Bob, there there are 2 different stack flue sensors/ switches - how old is the unit? The changeout/ switch is incredibly easy - I'm out of town this weekend but come Tues. I can tell you all you need to know about doing it

Sorry to hear this! A liner should last far more than 8 years!! The corners should have been tight in the corners, at least below the water line -- it sounds like the liner either wasn't measured right or made right for the pool There is a special glue for liner patching (Boxer 100 is probably the best) that you use to bond a new piece of vinyl to the existing liner - I can tell you how to apply it if you want to go that route. As said, you should get more than 8 years out of a liner, wherever you live! What I think the company that installed the liner is saying is: "WE are hacks, and if a liner accidentally makes it to 10 years - we'll have to remember to do a poorer job next time' -- they either don't know what they are doing or are the only pool installer in the area and use 'designed obsolescence' to keep busy. The warranty covers only material defects - not improper installation or damage caused by something falling in the pool and tearing the liner. If you'd like to try replacing it yourself, I've written a few posts (not here) on how to properly measure for a new liner and how to install one - it might be next week before I can assemble all the info (I've got to go out of town for a long weekend) but I'll gladly tell you what's involved. For starters I think you should try patching the liner, as said - I'll tell you how to do it and if that doesn't work, or finances become available, you can replace the liner. Please keep me informed on this and I'll help you, drawing on my ~20 years experience in the pool industry

There are a couple things you can try yourself before spending $$ for someone else to come in - any chance of posting some more pics which include the whole system/ valves - I might see something that would help?

Please post those pics - I do liner pools for a living and have dealt with many different coping styles - I'd say that the coping is the receiver for the liner, but without pics I can't be sure.

It can take over a week for the cya to become readable in the water, if you've backwashed the filter since adding it, you probably sent it out with the dirt.

It can take over a week for the cya to become readable in the water, if you've backwashed the filter since adding it, you probably sent it out with the dirt.

The chems you need for a salt pool (which Mineral Springs is) are: 1) Salt - the salt must be 99+% pure and contain NO anti-caking agents (yellow prusite?) nor iodine (which is why you can't just get a 'butt-load' of packets from McDonald's to salt the pool) - solar salt is great - some of the 'BIG BOX' stores sell salt especially for pool use --- but... they add the anti-caking agent and don't list it on the bag??? Coarse solar salt is a safe bet. 2) Cyanuric acid (a/k/a stabilizer or conditioner) this chem prevents the UV radiation from the Sun from burning off the chlorine you just made from the salt in the pool. Also referred to as 'cya' it's available from pool stores and hardware stores that have a pool section. 3) A source to raise pH (though the units themselves tend to raise the pH by the byproduct production of hydrogen gas while converting the salt to chlorine) - from the grocery store you can buy Borax (the laundry additive), it's not a very strong base to raise the pH, but at levels ~ 50+ ppm, it has algaecidal properties, so that your SWCG doesn't have to run as much to keep algae from forming, there are other benefits of using the Borax pertaining to pH control and alkalinity. Also, in the laundry section of the supermarket, Arm and Hammer sells "washing soda" which is 'soda ash' that is sold in pool stores as pH up or pH plus (it's a blue box - NOT the yellow baking soda box) 4) A source to raise the alkalinity, baking soda off the shelf of the grocery store - it's the same chemical that you would pay $$$ more for from the pool store as Alk up or Buffer plus. 5) A source to lower pH and thereby alkalinity, Muriatic acid (31.45% hydrochloric acid) some places are now selling lower % 'Muriatic acid' (as with all chems you buy, check the label for what's in them and at what %) 6) A source to raise calcium (IF you have a crete pool) - from the hardware store, get some ~ 77% calcium flakes for melting ice (again, check the ingredients - you want calcium and inert - no other special additives) 7) AND THIS SHOULD BE #1 - a GOOD drop based test kit that measures chlorine over 30 ppm, pH, total alkalinity, calcium hardness and cyanuric acid - Taylor 2006 is a good one, some other kits are the same chems and you may be able to get one of them cheaper - the important thing is that it has "FAS/ DPD" chlorine test! The savings that you will enjoy from using the chems I suggest, as opposed to the Mineral packs you are now using, will pay for the good kit within a season! I, of course, didn't go into everything for proper pool maintenance in this post - if you have questions, please ask!

George, the best I've been able to figure out is to pull up your own user profile and there is an option to check for posts - I don't know if it covers all of them or just the most recent... it's better than nothing. Glad you got the leak fixed!!

I want to second what ANG said about (most) pool store testing! If you are comfortable with doing your own testing with a good kit - like Taylor's - I would trust your results over anyone else's. When the company I work for's machine misreads and mis doses a pool, I get sent out with my Taylor 2006 to get things right I am not a chemist, but I have read that the sulfates in the dry pH down products might harm the plates in a SWCG, as such I only use Muriatic acid when lowering the pH in a salt pool- it may or may not be an issue, but I'm in the service dept., not the 'dis-service' dept If you want more info, I'll gladly tell you what I know

Hi Ordinarily I would wait to answer until someone else had asked a few 'clarifying' questions, but you asked so nicely and sounded like you need an answer quickly, I'll be the first to answer you It sounds like the threads from the old hydro-stat broke off in the female threads in the MD. The new part is SP-1056 (Hayward) - take a look at one and see if your old one looks similar (but is missing the bottom threaded 'nipple') if it is, you need to remove the broken off piece from the drain and install a new one. If you need help getting the old fitting out, I can tell you a couple ways to do it with no - minimal damage done to the female threads in the drain.

I just want to add that the ceramic side of the 'sealing plate' part of the assembly should be towards the impeller!! (I've seen the rubber side there a few times) As a general rule, take pictures, or make notes on the position of seal assemblies when you replace them yourself - if you put these things in 'backwards' they will not do their job! Crittie, as your seal should still be fine, do you have a multiport which may be leaking to the backwash/ waste line while the pool is running? If all your missing water is coming out under the pump, part of the housing may be cracked

First I want to say thank-you to aspac for a couple of REALLY good posts! You are ~brand new to this stuff and are giving almost the same answers I would. Strannik, I've seen you on other sites, as well as this one, and find your input helpful and educational! Are you overlooking the fact that the less time a SWCG runs, the longer the cell will last? I'd much rather see a 2X sized cell run 1/2 the time than a 1X cell run 24/ 7 - it saves on electricity and cell life Hope all have a great summer!

Dirty little secret: the only mineral it's showing is salt These are the exact same systems as the Goldline SWCG systems. IMO - the mineral springs stuff is over expensive chems -- you can get most of them at the GD grocery store for a fraction of the price! If you are interested in saving some $ while adding the EXACT same chems to the pool, just post here and I'll tell you what you need (and, perhaps more importantly, what you don't need from the BioGuard prepackaged stuff) If you follow the chems for a regular Aqua-Rite SWCG the system will work perfectly - as said, they are the exact same unit.

Steve, with the 'Tri-chlor' pucks you will be continually adding 6ppm cya for every 10 ppm cl you deliver to the pool. At first this may be a good thing, the cya will help keep the chlorine from being burned off by the Sun's UV - however, you will eventually have so much cya that the chlorine can't do it's job. I usually shoot for ~ 30 ppm cya as a start (the only way to lower cya is to drain and replace some of the pool water), if you have MAJOR sun, you may want to bump that level up closer to 50ppm to help retain the cl in the pool. In addition to continually raising the cya, the tabs have a pH of ~ 2.5 which will necessitate adding a pH up chem weekly, if not more often, to keep the pH above 7.0, to protect the pool surface and equipment from damage. Once you have the cya at 30 you can switch over to liquid bleach (unscented) to maintain a high enough residual and use the tabs again if you want to raise the cya or if you go on vacation. Cya is a 'double edged sword', while it protects the chlorine from UV degradation, it also slows down it's ability to kill algae and 'bio-nasties' so for any level of cya, you need a certain level of free chlorine (the ratio is 7.5 - 10% fc of the cya value), however since your pool is shaded, you may be able to go with a lower %. It just dawned on me that I've seen you before and have seen pics of your pool on TFP - I used to post there as 'waste' - if what I've said 'mirrors' what is said there, that's the reason