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Smaller IS better

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  1. End of season for the 14X42 Easy Set on concrete, I drained the pool, looked underneath. Thought it would be nice and dry and in new condition , instead, when Pool or rain water ran down the outside it migrated between the pool bottom and the indoor outdoor carpet. That caused a slight slimy film to form under the pool. Nothing like when it's on dead grass etc. but still not what I expected . Bottom line, I tossed the pool and the Indoor outdoor carpet and next year, next year...., I'm going back to my favorite size, an Intex 12X36 ("adult wading pool") and I'm putting it right on top of the concrete, no pad, no Bullshit. Since the pool is so small it doesn't need a ladder that rubs on the Pool bottom I won't need the carpet to cushion and protect the Vinyl. I'll use my 2500 GPH Filter Pump, Vacum and under water lights on the even smaller 12X36 Pool. Talk about overkill. So having a concrete pool pad is good ( no circle of mud and it doubles as a second Patio off season ) but still....it's not the "perfect solution" ( what is? ) I thought it would be. At 100 bucks a pop don't know if these little Pools are even worth the effort to clean and find room to store. Besides, I just LOVE that New Pool Smell!
  2. You said the water was Lime Green even as you filled the pool. Is it possible City maintenance was tracing underground leaks in your area and colored the water to identify city water from normal ground water? "Think outside the box"
  3. "A leak will only leak if it is below the water line." A novel "solution" would be to raise the Pump to the water level of the Pool. That will reduce the pressure on the seal and reduce any leak to a very small trickle (if any.) Do not locate the pump ABOVE the water level or the leak may work in reverse and allow air to get into the pump and the water to drain back into the pool causing the pump to lose it's "prime".
  4. It is common for Round Pools to have "Dead water" in the center of the Pool, this is because the water circulates AROUND the Pool leaving a Donut pattern where the Donot Hole consists of uncirculated and unchlorinated water! Your description of these things growing in the center of the Pool is proof the phenomenon of dead water in the center of a pool exsists. Your solution therefore is to: 1. Direct the Pump output so the water shoots directly across the center of the round pool and points toward the bottom of the pool. You may need a more powerful pump. Watch debris, leaves, dirt to see if it's being moved across the bottom in the center of the pool. 2. Swim in the Pool more often and when you do mix up the water. 3. In future consider a smaller pool that is easier to circulate all the water and requires less maintenance, chemicals and your time.
  5. Apparntly nobody likes helping on this board so I'll give it a try. First the bottom of the pool gets the least circulation, point the pump output straight across the bottom of the pool. A typical "Donut" pattern of water circulation in a round pool will leave dirty water in the center. Thats why you need to shoot water toward the bottom and across the center of a round pool. Also try a adding a little clarifier to the pool water, it makes very fine dust stick together so your filter can capture dirt. Takes about 48 hours then the dirt will fall to the bottom of the pool. I use it on a Intex cartridge filter pool and it definetly makes the water Crystal Clear. But it makes the dirt stick to the cartridges causing you to replace them more often ( won't wash out ). You can buy Clarifier at Wal-mart I use the blue/purple color liquid. It removes the electrical charge on dirt that keeps dirt from sticking to each other. Use very little pouring a little several places around the pool then run the pump or swim to mix it up. In a couple of days the water will be perfectly clear and the bottom of the pool will have black dirt and need vacuming. After vacuming rinse out the filter cartridge to get it out of your filter. Anyway, thats what I do and thats how it works. I don't like to use it but everyone wants perfectly clear water.
  6. Perfection is difficult to achieve, however..... A little Clarifier will get the water Crystal Clear. It works by causing extremely fine dirt to cling together so the filter can capture it. Dirt carries an electrical charge that causes them to repel one another, clarifier removes the charge so the dirt particles can come together. It takes about 48 hours and the dirt falls to the bottom of the pool. I use a cartridge filter and it eventually makes it clog up more frequently. But thats the price we pay for "Crystal Clear" water. It's sold at Walmart and use very little. The first time I put a little in my filter chamber and the cartridge would clog up in 5 minutes after washing. I had to buy a new cartridge. Don't know what it would do to a sand filter so be careful. As far as valve leaks..... At some time closely inspect O Ring grooves for burrs and plastic mold mismatch. File and sand groove to obtain a smooth sealing surface for the O rings. Coat O Ring with vaseline, etc. Worked for me on a Hair and Lint filter cover that was sucking air bubbles.
  7. Get out from under that Monster sized pool and take your life back. When it comes to pools, Smaller really is better!
  8. Replace with same Pump or you'll spend a small fortune on adapters to connect a larger Pump to your small pool connectors. You probably have the 1000 GPH Model 637 Filter Pump, the largest Pump that uses the "A" filter cartridges. I put a 2500 GPH pump on my little 14X42 pool and spent a small fortune on hose adapters and hours tracking down suction leaks. Thats because little pools use 1.25 inch hoses and larger pumps use standard 1.5 inch. Your choice is to use adapters or cut bigger holes in the side of the pool.
  9. Those Intex 110 volt underwater LED lights. They are very bright but they do attract bugs like any outdoor light. At first I tied them into my yard light circuit but they attracted too many bugs to the pool every night. The outside part works off a 12 volt adapter. The inside part has the LED's. The power passes through the pool wall like a Microwave or something. They stick together on the wall by three powerful magnets. No cutting through the wall or anything. Takes several pounds of force to pull them apart. You can slide the outside unit up and down the wall and the underwater unit will follow. Kids like to yank the inside unit off the wall, then it floats to the surface, the outside part will fall off on the ground. Placing the lights near the bottom of the pool saves the outside unit from falling very far if kids keep pulling the magnets apart. If you don't line up the magnets properly the inside part won't light up. As you pull it off the light gets dimmer. Water cools the LED's so must be placed underwater. I bought 2 of them to prevent shadows and not look "cheap". The light is as bright as a compact flourescent bulb and (unfortunatly) has about the same poor color quality. However at the far end of my 14 foot pool the light becomes a deep rich blue. At night the outside of the Easyset pool glows like a flying saucer ( light passes through the vinyl liner ). It's weird, I heared the neighbor teenagers talking about it saying "that's cool" Again, the lights work great, very bright (hurt your eyes to look directly at the LED's ) but they definetly will attract more bugs trying to get to the underwater lights. Buy it again? You bet, great underwater light solution I've been searching for. Magnets hold pieces on wall, power passes through liner, no cutting, easy to move anywhere on the pool. Does not need a flat section of pool ( mine is round pool ). I Hope Intex improves the light quality, maybe offer an underwater yellow bug light ( bugs don't see yellow ). Bought at Target 50 bucks each.
  10. In 2009 we had a 12X36 Intex pool, that fall I had a 14 foot diameter by 6 inch thick concrete pad poured. During the Fall and winter it functioned as a Patio and we fed birds on it. This year Intex came out with a 14X42 Easy Set pool which we installed. We used Indoor outdoor carpeting to cover the concrete in order to cushion the pool vinyl liner. It was a hassle getting the pool centered but fortunatly all the weight is on the concrete. Although the contractor used only a 2x4 and a level to get the pad level the final result was level within half an inch across the pad ( using a tape measure from the water level to the bottom of the pool. Fall is an excellent time to pour a concrete pad and save pets tracking in mud all winter and early spring. I chose 6 inch thick concrete since contractors often leave thin spots. I chose 14 foot since at the time Intex only made 12 and 15 foot Easy set pools. That way my wife couldn't make me buy a 15 foot pool. However in 2010 Big Lots stores carried a 14 foot Easy set pool. We tossed the original 12 foot pool because of the smell from the dead grass. That prompeted us to pour a concrete pad for 2010. Cost was 950 dollars, I think they used 3.5 or 4 cubic yards. The pool bottom is very nice on top of the indoor/outdoor carpeting. There have been no tears etc. we use a deck and a pool ladder that stretches the vinyl somewhat. I'd do it again. It's really nice in the fall, the round concrete pad feels a bit like a stage. A great place for a fire pit, etc. --------------------------- can pictures be posted on this Forum?
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