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Yunus

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  1. Thats easy enough! Thanks for the info.
  2. Hi everyone, Following Nitro and WaterBear's advice has been fantastic and saved me time and money. I used to use Nitro's Chlorine directions for my hot tub but I use it much less than I used to and can't keep up the daily maintenance that it needs so I'm switching back to Bromine. I have the Taylor K-2006 kit to test my water and that's fine for everything except the Bromine. Is there a specific kit I can get to add Bromine or are there just a few regents I can buy, I'm hoping to not have to spend another $50 on the K-2106 only to find that 2 chemicals are different or something.
  3. So I have in my 380 gallon spa a TA of about 40-80 but appears to be closer to 40 which my test strips say is low. My PH is 7.8 which the test strips say is normal but the next step up 8.4 is high. I use Sodium Bicarbonate to raise TA/PH and Sodium Bisulfate to lower PH/TA. Well how do I raise TA without also raising PH? I know on this board or somewhere I saw a chart in the past that gave scenarios and mine was one and it said what to do but I have searched everywhere and can not seem to find it. Any help is appreciated. Thanks,
  4. Just to give some perspective on your heat situation. My circulation pump recently died on my 2008 Caldera Hawaiian (380 gallons). With the weather between 15-25F in a given day my temps went from 103 on Friday night when the pump died to 93 on Sunday evening. This is a 10F loss of heat in 48 hours with no water movement in the tub and the heater is off the entire time. After 1 week with the temps only going above freezing 1 day the water temperature was still about 70F. It was over 2 weeks before I felt I needed to manually add some hot water to keep it from freezing. Also these numbers reflect no usage of the tub except opening it daily to check the temp. I'm sure using it would have resulted in a much quicker loss of heat.
  5. I have a Covermate 1 and my only complaint is a complaint of all commercial cover lifters I have seen. I like to rest my arms on the edge of the hot tub and the lifter does not allow me to put my arms on 1 side of the tub because the cover is resting against it. I still prefer a lifter to no lifter though. The lifter that Dave made seems to allow for a little more room from the pictures but I don't know if thats just an optical illusion.
  6. I have the spa frog and I would say technically it cuts down on chemical usage. But that's not what your really asking. Your asking if its less expensive and it is not. While you might use less Bromine in a given time period the cost of the chemicals you do use are higher. It has taken me some getting used to but I like the spa frog even though it costs more because I don't have to think about adding Bromine when I get out of the tub. It is convenient but you pay for that convenience and you still have to do your weekly shock and anything else required.
  7. I would look at this situation just like the purchase of a used car. If you bought a car and the dealer said its an 01' and you got it home and the vin number says it was manufactured in 1997 what would you do? I don't care if it sat for years without use, it's no different than a car. A 97' is worth less than an 01' if everything else is equal and you were sold on an 01'.
  8. Even with the circ pump disconnected (from the circuit board I pulled the black and white wires going into the circ pump) when I turn on jet 1 I can see lots of bubbles/water moving through the see through line going through the circ pump into the heater and when I put my hand over the small jet that the circ pump pushes water through, I can feel a decent flow of water coming out. I can't be certain its the same pressure as when the circ pump is going but I know water is coming out. When I say holding the heater on, the pressure switch that ps558 was talking about is what I was also talking about, if I press it in, the heater turns on. I'll take pictures and post them with labels so what I am saying is clearer. I don't know the proper terminology for some of the things and that is probably making it more confusing than it is. But when I take the circ pump offline (disconnected) everything else works, except the heater but that is not supposed to work without the circ pump, from my understanding.
  9. Spoke to the dealer today. They said they don't have any circ pumps in stock but have them on order and it will take 7-10 days to get them in. Once they have it in stock they will come out to replace it/troubleshoot the problems. They suggested I winterize the tub by draining it and taking a wet/dry vac to the jets to clear them of water. Does any of this sound abnormal? Other than the not having what seems to me to be a common part in stock. Ps558 I tried your test and with the circulation pump disconnected from the board, jets work fine and I get a flashing temp light but no 4 lines. Which leads me to believe that the circ pump is shorted and is the cause of these problems. Anyone familiar enough with Caldera's to tell me if my crazy idea of manually holding down the heater to the on position while running pumps 1 and 2 is safe? I get water flow coming from the jet that is connected to the circ pump. The only difference is the circ pump is not on. I would only be doing this for maybe a minute or 2 a day to put some hot water in the tub. I guess I could just heat up 15 gallons of water and dump that into the tub and turn the jets on, probably have the same effect and be safer.
  10. I checked and its a 50 amp feeding the 30 and 20. So it could be a bad 20 as it still won't go off when I hit the test button. I tried shutting every breaker off and then turning them back on. Now I'm getting 4 flashing lines after just a few seconds. I'm pretty sure at a minimum the circulation pump is dead. I took the housing cover off of it and tested and it had 120V at the pump and it was not doing anything. I don't know if a circulation pump not working could cause any of these other problems. Is there anyway to verify the 20 amp breaker is providing power to the tub without taking the panels off again? I'm wary of opening it up anymore than necesary because of the cold weather. What I mean is, what does the 20amp breaker power that I could test, air Pump2, lights... Thanks for all your help with this.
  11. Called the dealer, service department is closed. I talked with a sales guy who had me turn off the power then back on and immediately start the pumps, they ran for about 5 seconds. He said it is likely freezing pipes. I'm going to take a blow dryer to the pump near the heater and he suggested running the jets after that for a while to help heat the insides up. Does this sound like a good course of action or is there something better that I can do? It's about 10F outside and the tub is sitting on a brick patio, so its very cold out. EDIT--- I don't think its frozen pipes. Took a look at the panel again and under the heater there is a microswitch. When I turn Jet1 on the micro switch looks like its trying to close but isn't quite reaching the closed position. When I take a screwdriver and maunally close the switch the heater works fine. Guess some component has probably gone bad. The circ pump is supposed to always be on but only seems to work now when I have jet 1 on so theres an issue somewhere besides the microswitch. Gotta wait till Wednesday though because in the DC area nothing is open on this monday or tuesday (Inauguration traffic) which I think is stupid.
  12. So now if you hit the red test buttons they both trip off? If you reset both breakers, is the temp light flashing after a minute or so? The 30amp breaker will trip when the test button is pushed but the 20 amp still will not. But manually flipping bot to the off position for a minute then turning it back on. The tub at first flashes temp, and now I am getting 4 lines which the manual says is when the overtemp switch has been tripped. Is resetting that switch something I can do on my own? I also took a panel off the side to see if I could see any obvious problems (wires loose or something) and the only thing I saw was that a little light labeled "D17" was lite on the main panel inside the spa. Other than that everything seemed ok, but I didn't poke around to much as I didn't want to touch a live wire.
  13. Yes I tried twice now tripping both breakers for a full minute then turning them back on.
  14. I have an 08 Caldera Hawaiian. Everything is still under warranty so I will be calling the dealer if there is not a simple fix but I thought I would post here and maybe save the fee the dealer charges to come out. Last night I got in and noticed the 24 hour filter pump was not on which means no heater also. I checked and as the temperature dropped I also noticed the "temp" light flashing which the manual says, clean filter, cut power for 30 seconds then turn back on. I did all this and no changes. It was dark so there was nothing more I could do. Today I noticed that when I press the test button on my GFCI outlets the 30amp kicks off but the 20amp does not. It is about 10F outside so I'm wondering if this is common because of the cold or if the GFCI is broken or if maybe it won't trip because there is no load being applied against it if the heater/pump is not on. Any thoughts? The only thing I have done to the tub recently is I added about 12 oz of Calcium increaser during the day yesterday, then in the evening I got in and the problems were happening, but I don't think that has anything to do with it, but you all know better than I do. Thanks
  15. It's an old post so I don't know why I'm replying but... I bought the Caldera Hawaiian from Spas East in Maryland, there also in Northern Virginia for around 8k, this was with cover and a bunch of chemical kits, they gave us twice as much as they needed to. Delivery guys gave us a kit and the store guys did as well, good people to deal with they have been very helpful and a pleasure to deal with. This price did not include an ozonator which I am looking at getting now, a coverlifter which I got a week after getting the tub and no radio which I am still considering my options on.
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