Wizzard of spas

You do not have to drain the pool, there is a neturalizer you can add to eliminate your bioguanide. Just make sure the pool is neturalized before you convert over.

Why are you adding bromine to a pool with so much clorine? come on? forget the bromine, and add some cyniric acid to keep the chlorine in the pool, and you are done, go swim.

Really looks like an older system, Great photos, however really hard to follow. Best bet is to have a professional technician come out and assess the situation, any Tech worth his salt will have an answer for you in 5 mins.

The pools in our area with fiberglass walls, have deteriorated gaskets, and are full of blisters/bubbles in the panels; some as big as basket balls, in some cases the back fill has caused the panels to bulge into the pool. What causes this? poor chemistry, bad panels?

OK, my turn to learn something. The customer says he is getting too much pressure to the heat pump. A heater bypass rather than downsizing the pump, would be my suggestion. In the owners manual there should be a diagram for a heater bypass; "Required" if the Flow, GPM is above a certain number, An easy way to determin this, is to install a simple flo-meter on the line going to the heater. If you have a flo-meter, and a bypass valve installed, which is easy, and inexpensive, this eliminates any question of pressure or flo issues to the heater. Once you have determined that the flo rate through the heater is correct, anything else would be an issue with the heater itself. Am I wrong?

There is only one place for the water to come from. There is a leak in the heat exchanger; could be just a pin hole. Thanks for the input, I have edited my post. I'll do better next time. Scott makes a good point. The leak does get bigger when the heater is on and heating.

Push on the conecton works, let off the pressure fails, hmmm? probly need a new pump. just kidding. Give Scott a call.

To answer your question, Yes. All it takes is money, and lots of it, to run a heater year round. You said it! lol I said the exact same thing in only the longer version That's great. good call, and right on the "money!"

If you live under pine trees? every day! Can we have a few situation perameters? What are the enviromental conditions, and what is the bather load. Public pools require 24/7 maintenance with water testing ever 4 hours. Are you in the country, in the desert,in the city, in the open, under elm or oak trees trees? Not all pool enviroments are the same. Are you indoors, or out of doors? Give us a few pool paramaters, and we can beter help you dial this in. How many people use this pool? 2 or 200? very important info.. help us help you. PS Im inOregon, Everyone with inground pool has heat! Most peole in our regon keep pool running through winter. moving water does not freeze in our temp zone. Most inground pools here are nat gas or propane. we do ot do much "Winterization" here. The elaborate pools have covers, with sump pumps sitting on top of the cover. Only a small number drain the pool below the skimmers, and open up the plmbing, at the pumps flters ect, small number. We get so much rain here makes no sence to drain the pool down,; fills up in one day. most people here keep the pool running out of doors. we do not see much time below freezing. people with heat keep temp set at 45 degrees. I do not know the cost. I could easy calculate it. costs here 75.00 a month to run a pump at 3450 rpms 24/7. We have people here with plastic bubles over the pool, runs all year at temp, 85 degrees. I even have a few customers that keep their pool wide open all year. They have lots of money however. Lots of money, it's not even a secong thought to them. Complete exposure year round, swimming out of doors year round. I will give you one example. Susan, and Randy PAPE. They have freeways named after them. You can swim in their pool any time of year. Google Search PAPE and you will see how wealthy this cliant is.

Is the pump leaking? If pump is not leaking, at the point where the pump joins the moter then you are good. Never dry run a pool, or spa pump. you will burn up the shaft seals, and even possibly melt the pump. Never ever run a pump dry, you wil destroy the pump (wet end). Most NOISE in pumps comes from dry bearings. What happens in most cases is,... The shaft seals begin leaking, water runs own the shaft to the forward bearings. watr gets into the bearings and drys them out, they corode, and wear faster exposed to water. the motor shaft, also exposed to water rusts, and enlarges du to oxidation, rust. This breaks the impeller shaft, crack/split, and the seals leak even more. the pump makes lots o noise, it soon seizes up, and you call me. I do moter rebuilds for 120.00 complete, Includes bearngs, shat seals, and all O=rings. Impellers are extra if that far gone. Motors make noise or they dont. Moters do not fix themslves. They do not fix themselves. Motor running in an air lock will not sound like a moter under a load.

It's a leak in the heat exchanger. It's not that hard to replace. Perhaps two hours. i will now Chill. sry guys carried away.

I would break out the manal, and look at the possibilities of programing. the pump is doing what it is told to do. I would like to follow up on this. let me know what you find out. Many controll products have default filtration cycles of example 2 hours every 12 hours,... Balboa for example. Depending on bather load these perameters can be changed. Do you have the owners manual, and have you read it?

This is a very common problem in new pool installs by non professionals. did you forget to install the HEATER bypas with control valve? Yes you did! plumb in a straight heater bypass with a control valve. regulate the flow to the heater, ,Mark the posistion of the bypass valve and tell everyon not to mess with this valve. The water coming out of the heater should be only 10 degrees hotter than the water going in. you adjust the pressure to the heatrer by watching the gauge on the filter. wide open is normal pressure to the filter; crank the bypass valve open closed untill the filter pressure drops 1 PSI. you now have estrablished the correct flow to the heater. "All" swimming pool residintial require a bypass in order to regulate the flow through the heater. Install the bypass.. look it up on line, common mistake Pool heaters because of thermostats, and governers, can only handel so much flow, otherwise you get " water slam" cold water rushing to meet a freshly opened governer. slamslam slam,sounds like it's going to fly apart. or full of rocks You forgot the bypass This is a very easy fix. Plumb the return straight to the pool. Install a valve in the return line to the pool. Install the heater input on one side of the valve, Install the heater return on the oppisite side of the valve. use this valve to control the flow through your heater. You are done, there you have it. you can even turn the heater competly off if you desire. understand?

Most pool lights anticipate the replacement of the bulb. Yes it is a sealed unit. Unscrew the unit from the back, replace the bulb, and reseal the unit, JOB WELL DONE. If your new light housing does not fit the nitch, Ouch! Most manufacturers have upgrades for discontinued products that will fit. If you can fit the light into the nitch, and secure it with one screw leaving only a small gap then it is what it is. The nitch is always full of water in any case, no big deal. Give me the model number of the origional, or the name, or even post a picturer. I can easy help you with this one. piece of cake.

This device is used to presure test the lines in a swimming pool when checking the lines for leaks. You place the device into the line, turn the butterfly untill you have a positive seal; pressurize the line with an air compressor to 25 PSI. and watch your pressure gague needle to see if the pressure drops. If the Pressure drops after 24 hours,... You have a leak. This is a Pressure testing device. That sucker is band new too, Can I have it?