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huey graphite

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  1. Thanks John. The cap I replaced (50uF) is of aluminum can type and mounts on top of the motor. I assume because of it's value that it is a run cap. Where would I locate the start cap? Any idea? (P.S. I worked as an electronics technician for many years although hot tubs were not my forte).
  2. I have an Infinity hot tub that is about 7 yrs old and I am in it 2x per day. 2 years ago I replaced the main pump ( 2 speed). I should have dealt with this problem immediately but haven't. The pump will not start on low speed so when the heater comes on, you can hear the water in the heater start to heat and within 10 seconds, it goes into HH (high heat) and then (OH) overheat condition. If I use the controls to turn it on (press once) I hear the pump hum as it attempts to start. If I press it again, it will turn on in high speed. As a bandaid fix I reversed the high and low speed wires so that the pump runs in high while heating and during filter cycles. but the water temp climbs to 108 and higher due to the heat generated by the pump and running in high speed for so long. I suspected the capacitor (50uF) so replaced it but that did not solve the problem. The only other thing i can think of is that the wires that lead from the capacitor to the inside of the motor maybe disconnected but that is just a guess and would be very difficult to access. Any ideas?
  3. I have an Infinity tub with Balboa VS Control system. I replaced the main pump about a year and a half ago and have had ongoing problems. The main pump is 2 speed that can be controlled by the top panel. The low speed is supposed to come on with filtration cycles and when the water temp drops below the set temp. With either method the low speed will not work. The pump hums and after 5-10 seconds will go into thermal overload. However if I press the top panel switch while it is humming, it will go into high speed. If I hit it again, it WILL run in low speed. Also, if I leave it on high speed (while in it for example) after 15 minutes the pump will time out and if the temp has dropped below the set speed it will then run fine in low speed for as long as it needs to heat. I suspected it would be the start capacitor so I swapped out the capacitor between the secondary 1 speed pump (40uf) and the problem/main 2 speed pump (50uf). Is the lower capacitance is insufficient? Any other suggestions? Thanks in advance.
  4. I purchased an Infinity hot tub 5 years ago. It has a Balboa Instruments control board #54585. For about a year now it has been overheating. Will heat to anywhere from 105 to 109 regardless to what temp I have it set to. I tried swapping both of the sensors but the 2 sensors I installed were questionable (came from a used control unit). No change in symptoms. Then about a month ago my GFCI started to trip intermittently. I removed 1 of the 2 legs that provides power from the circuit board to the heater. The connections are flat copper bands that are labelled HT1 &HT2. This SHOULD prevent the heater from turning on. Now....the GFCI no longer trips...but the heater is still coming on. How is this possible?????? Any advice is greatly appreciated.
  5. Thank you both for your replies. Some great advice. Both of you mentioned a switch. Is this a centrifugal switch?
  6. Hoping someone here can offer some assistance. I am an electronic/electrical technician but in a different industry. I do have some pump and motor experience but limited experience working with hot tubs. I have a 3.5yr old Infinity hot tub and 1 of the 2 motors will not start. It hums very loud like a transformer for 3-5 seconds then cuts out. Viewing the motor while it attempts to start I can see the armature move ever so slightly. With power off I am able to turn by hand but not enough (there is little room) to conclude that the bearings are good. I've read here about suspect motor capacitors. The one on this motor is rated at 50MF 370VAC. I swapped it with the good one from the other motor, but it was rated at 40MF 440VAC. The problem was the same...loud hum, unable to start. Is the 40MF not enough? Based on these details would you suggest getting a new capacitor or is my motor or pump shot? Thanks in advance.
  7. Anyone else receive a PM from this member this morning? Subject line is "hello" and the body says Please Help (underlined) and is a link to another website. I'm thinking i's possibly a virus
  8. I’m considering purchasing a spa blanket for our outdoor hot tub hoping it will improve efficiency. Does anyone on this board use them that can offer some feedback? Thanks in advance.
  9. Water change depends on the size of the tub and its use. Green usually indicates metals in the water that are reacting with the chemicals, unless the tub has no cover and sunshine is creating algea. You can try a metal remover at next fill or get a filling filter to attach to your hose to get these metals out of the water. If its not metals or algea, the other thing I have learned is people that use Irish Spring soap tend to have green foamy water. You shock bromine with chlorine (di-chlor is recommended) or MPS (non-chlorine shock). When you shock the tub it re-establishes the bromine that has been "used up". Tablets that you put in a feeder are usually a bromine/chlorine mix, but shocking is still needed in most cases to super oxidize the water. Rinsing the filter will help, but have you cleaned it? Foam is from sweat,soap,deaoderant ect that is in the water. Shocking the tub will help this and you can also try a clarifier. Be careful to what kind of clarifer you use, so are oil based and IMO stink. Clean you filters after running a clarifer a day ot 2 later. Great advice. I have a chemical for soaking the filter in. I will give that a try as well as shocking with a non-chlorine shock. Thanks
  10. I've had a hot tub for the past 8 months and have been using bromine through a floater. How can I shock the tub with Bromine once a week? Or can I shock with liquid chlorine? I last changed the water 2 months ago and it has a bit of a green hue to it. Also, when the jets are on, there is too much foam and the bubbles are a little dirty. I've rinsed the filter. Any other suggestions? Am I due for another water change? Thanks in advance.
  11. I had the exact same problem and Tech Support gave me the same instructions and it solved the problem. I was very happy with the support they provided.
  12. I'm a new tub owner (3 weeks now) and am trying to get a grasp on the chemistry. I'm using Bromine tabs in a floater and testing 4 or 5 times a week. My testing thus far shows the ph tends to creep up. I've purchased and have used for 2 weeks now, pH Down. I add approx 2 teaspoons to a 350 gallon spa. My concern is, on the Bromine label it warns of the risk of mixing with other chemicals and never with an acid. From what I've read on other threads here, pH Down is a sodium bi-sulfate which is an acid. Also, I just purchased a box of Calgon Ocean Breeze. On the box it has labeled " Ideal for whirlpools and spa". The main ingredient is sodium bi-sulfate. I expect this will cause the pH to rise but I should be able to counter that with the pH down. Any input from the forum experts and experienced owners would be greatly appreciated.
  13. I've read through the majority of this thread, and call me thick, but I 'm not sure if the general consensus is that alternatives to the aromatherapy products sold at spa dealer are acceptable or not. If so, what are they and where can they be purchased? Can standard bath oils be safely used without harming the shell or chemical balance?
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