G-MAN

I'm not sure which one to buy but your definitely going to have to play with this for a while to get it to work properly as far as run time and percentage of dilution. You may even need to put it on a separate timer. Bigger may be better as long as you can find a way to limit it's output if you have to. I'd be interested to hear how this works for you.

your deck should absolutely pitch away from the pool, and away from your house if it touches it. sounds like you have a solid complaint and it should be fixed.

There should be a check valve on the spa return line so that the spa does not drain down while it is off. If there isn't one there then install one. If there is a check valve, perhaps it is broken. Get it fixed asap, prolonged exposure to plaster can cause check cracking.

white - $4,020 quartz - $5,220 PA pricing

I work for a pool plastering company in southeast PA. Our cost with plain white plaster would be $4,020. White with quartz would be $5,220.

If this is a new pool, the builder most likely subbed the plaster job to an actual plasterer. Try to find out who it was and contact them directly. If the builder payed them to use S.S. then it should be in there.

YES, you should still leave a 5/8" expansion joint around the pool. many paver contractors fail to leave a joint resulting in coping failure. I would recommend that you seal the back of your coping and mortar. This can be done with the same type of self-leveling caulk that would be used if you had a solid concrete deck. Mix the 2 part caulk and (with a gloved hand or brush) coat the back of the coping and the mortar bed that holds the coping to the pool. This will seal the area preventing the cement from "wicking" or absorbing water which could cause ice damage. This should be done before the pavers are set.

WET THE SAMPLES FOR A MORE ACCURATE REPRESENTATION OF THE PRODUCT. ANY EXPOSED AGGREGATE FINISH (QUARTZ, HYDROZZO, PEBBLE) IS GOING TO ROUGHER THAN PLAIN PLASTER. SOME PRODUCTS CAN BE POLISHED FOR A SMOOTHER FINISH BUT THIS COSTS MORE THAN EXPOSING WITH ACID.

If they plan to put the fiberglass over the plaster only it may be o.k. Be careful with the guy that wants to put fiberglass over the tile and/or coping - you will have problems. If the fiberglass doesn't work for some reason, you will have to remove it via waterblasting which can be very expensive, just to get the pool back to its original condition before it can then be re-plastered. find out how long this guy has been in business under the same name.

sounds like you filled the pool with your hose and not water trucks. if adams suggested that you get water trucked in and warned you what would happen if you didn't then they are not responsible. hairline or check cracks are inherent in all plastered pools according to the national plasterers council and are not considered a defect.

YES, if you live in an area that experiences freeze-thaw conditions, the expansion joint should be sealed to keep freezing water from destroying your coping and tile. Unfortunately, most pool builders do not caulk their pools even though they know better. You should wait 20-30 days for the new concrete decking to cure before any type of sealant is applied. Use a polyurethane caulk, the self-leveling is the best.