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jkusmier

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  1. Had a second MasterTemp installed today. It was shipped on a pallet and there was zero damage.
  2. Well, the replacement heater arrived last week. The box was pristine but when my installer (a buddy who happens to be a licensed service pipefitter and has installed a few pool heaters in his day) and I removed the heater we discovered cracks on the outer panels. When we removed one of the access panels we discovered some a broken bracket and some internal parts that were hanging loose. I ordered the heater from Amazon, and quickly checked the reviews (which I'd ignored previously because I was already well familiar with the MasterTemp) and read reports of similar damage. I promptly reported the damage and happily, Amazon is offering a full refund, no restocking fee or return shipping charges. Apparently my complaint was the straw that broke the camel's back, because within a day Amazon marked the heater listed with the particular Amazon merchant/store I'd ordered from with "Item Under Review" while they investigate whether the problem is due to shipping practices, quality control, etc. According to some of the reviews, Pentair redesigned the MasterTemp heaters sometime in the past year or two, using thinner plastic throughout and replacing internal metal brackets with plastic ones. I contacted a few pool retailers and was told they too experienced similar problems until they started strapping and shipping the heaters on pallets. (Mine did not ship on a pallet). UPS will be picking the old heater up this week, and I ordered a new one from another online seller (a Google Trusted retailer). I called the seller on two different days, spoke with different persons and both confirmed problems last year but stated none this year after shipping the heaters on pallets. They suspect the boxes were being turned upside down, which is somewhat more difficult to do if they're strapped to a pallet. So we shall see. Pool Clown, have you experienced a similar problem or heard about this? Thanks, Joe
  3. My Pentair MasterTemp 400 is in its 7th full season of use and has been leaking water for a few weeks. I finally removed one of the access panels and sure enough, the bottom of the combustion chamber/"tub" is heavily rusted. I have a salt pool, and while I maintain my salt level around 3600 and pH between 7.4-7.8, I guess time took its toll on the copper heat exchanger long ago, and the leak finally ate out my combustion chamber as well. It probably didn't help that my builder didn't install a bypass valve, so flow was constant and eroded the heat exchanger even when the heater wasn't in use. Quick questions: I have a 17,500 Gal inground pool. After checking the specs on a 250 BTU unit, I think that will suffice. The 400 BTU was probably overkill on a pool my size - thoughts? I plan to buy an HD model with a cupro-nickel heat exchanger. It appears that regardless of BTU rating, models equipped with a cupro-nickel exchanger cost $300+ more than those with copper heat exchangers. I've read it's well worth the investment, especially with a salt pool. Thoughts? Finally, and what should probably be my first question: would it be more cost-effective to replace the heater, or to just have the unit serviced and the heat exchanger and combustion chamber replaced? Dumb question since I haven't asked for a bid, much less called for service, but wholesale prices on the heat exchanger and combustion chamber total $750+, and I'm sure the additional labor for repair versus installing a replacement unit will add another $200-300. I appreciate any advice, and thanks, Joe
  4. You're right. Got a new K-2006 a few weeks ago too, should have used it. Won't make that mistake again. Been re-reading alot of old threads here and getting back up to speed after skating the past couple of seasons. I actually sent an email to Pentair support but afterward I told myself the same thing - I got 6 years out of the original and replacement cell, combined. All in all, I'm happy with Pentair because they did so much warranty work. No limitations in warranty re: online equipment purchases, and found a few threads stating no warranty issues with Pentair. So I think I'm all good - hopefully for a good long while. Thanks Pool Clown!
  5. Found a YouTube video that answered my first question - yes, Pentair changed the design/direction of the top panel on the cell itself. OK. But still wondering if I should switch cells again... the old cell was replaced in July 2009, but while it had nearly 5 full seasons under its belt, I wasn't getting any red LED indicators, the blades were pristine (I have a vinyl-lined pool so CA never gets much higher than 200), pump run times generally average 10-12 hours and output averages 30-40%. I guess I'm in denial, and really have no complaints since Pentair was great about honoring the warranties on the control boards and the original cell that was installed with the pool in 2007. Thanks.
  6. My IC40 failed a few days ago. Noticed my pool was cloudy after rain, thought maybe rain raised pH enough to cause some CA to precipitate out (as in the past) so tossed a cup of dry acid in. Noticed no change next day, so I tested water. FC was 0, pH was 7.4. After some troubleshooting I ran the chlorinator diagnostic on my EasyTouch and saw it was reading salt at 0. Reset panel, salt still 0. Set IC40 output to 100%, looked at the return lines and no hydrogen bubbles. Hmmm. Manually dosed pool with bleach, threw a puck in the floater and called a tech at a reputable local store that previously did some warranty work for me. They suggested cell was bad. Pool was built in late 2007, had both EasyTouch and Intellichlor control boards replaced under warranty in 2009, then original IC40 cell went bad the following year, they replaced that under warranty too. Disappointed and concerned that I was looking at a third cell after just 6 full seasons, but figured original cell would have died by now anyway. Ordered replacement from Amazon and installed today. A few questions: 1) the top panel of the cell was installed backward at factory, or was it? Once installed in proper flow direction, the panel faces into the equipment pad, instead of outward like my old cell(s). Is this a mistake at the factory? Anyone experienced this? Should I return? 2) the diagnostic still read salt at 0. Opened the EasyTouch and inspected the boards, suspecting a problem. Nothing visibly wrong, scratched my head until I reset the panel in the diagnostic menu on the EasyTouch. Salt then read 3800. That got me wondering, so I put the old cell back in, reset the EasyTouch again and the diagnostic again read salt at 0. Switched the new cell back in, reset the EasyTouch again and salt was good (3800). So I guess the old cell is dead... or is it? Should I try again? 3) does Pentair honor warranty on cells bought from non-certified sources, like Amazon? I know some manufacturers won't in an attempt to support local pool stores. Mind you, the Amazon price was more than $300 less. As always, thanks for any input. Haven't been on the forum in a couple of years, had to reactivate my account. Good to be back!
  7. I'm sure some of the contractors here will disagree, but... While accidents happen, you pay contractors to improve the value of your property, not diminish it. If the liner was older and approaching replacement, I'd probably just ask them to pay for professional repair. Since your liner is only 1 year old, I would demand replacement, including labor (even if you installed the current liner yourself). I have no idea how much the contractor was charging for the masonry work, and you typically pay a percentage down, then make additional payments as the work progresses and is completed, but I would suspend further payments, ask a supervisor to come out, talk to him and present a written demand for replacement, accompanied by a copy of the receipt of the existing liner and at least 2 current quotes for identical/comparable replacement, including labor. I'd probably build in a pro-rated reduction since the liner is 1 year old - but not more than 10%. And yes, I'd replace the silica in the filter. Some of the cement almost certainly got caught up in the sand, and will set even if the pump continues to circulate water through the filter. This is a poster child for chanelling, and while the problem might be nominal, it could also be much worse. Assume the worst, else you'll strike a weak bargain and be paying for it yourself later. So I'd add the cost of new silica and labor to my demand. Finally, as a bargaining tool, I would remind the contractor that any fine aggregate could potentially abrade the impeller blades. What did you do?
  8. I'm not a builder, and I imagine someone here can offer a more informative response. The second hole at the bottom of the skimmer CAN be plumbed into the mains, although I've only seen it plugged or just dead-ended, e.g. into the concrete bond beam. Surely there must be a way to drain that line, since plumbing it to the mains is not only contemplated, but actually done. Have you tried contacting the manufacturer (probably Hayward)? How do you blow your lines - compressor or shop vac? Many people find that shop vacs (5+ HP) generate more air volume than compressors. Maybe that will do the trick? Marine/RV antifreeze ( propylene glycol) is only slightly denser than water. In my experience, it sinks when running into the pool (probably because it is being continuously diluted) but floats in the skimmer, so just pouring it into that second hole probably won't do much.
  9. You forgot to mention a bearing puller. Actually, I didn't consider trying it myself until I watched a few videos - after I'd installed the new pump. So maybe I'm just short one brain.
  10. BTW, I ultimately found the replacement at far less than $400. Installed yesterday in less than an hour. I like the new plastic motor canopy/cover. Also like not hearing my pump!
  11. I found a replacement type 316 stainless pilot screw for my SAm/Amerlite at a local Fastenal a few seasons ago. Actually grabbed a few, but the one I installed still looks like new.
  12. I asked myself that, but I found a new pump at a price only $70 more than the cheapest replacement motor I could find. Also, there are a gaps between the seal plate and the volute on the top and one side, like something is warped.
  13. Bearings on existing 1.5HP Pentair SuperFlo are singing. I mistakenly described a WhisperFlo in another post). Actually ordered the identical pump as a replacement, I'm wondering if I should change order to a 1HP? ~17,500 Gallon inground Plumbing is all 1.5" Equipment pad is roughly 20' from pool and at same elevation 2 intakes (1 skimmer + main drains) 7 returns (3 on side, 2 in step section + 2 laminar jets that I use only occasionally, but when I do I like them to fly high) Pentair Sand Dollar SD80 (3.5 sq ft filtering area, 50PSI max (consistently reads 20PSI w/ existing 1.5HP pump), 75GPM max flow rate Pump flow rates are ~90 for 1HP, ~100 for 1.5HP. As always, I'm very thankful your advice.
  14. One last question: the pump is actually a 1.5HP Pentair SuperFlo - I mistakenly described it as a WhisperFlo). Just ordered the identical pump as a replacement, I'm wondering if I should change order to a 1HP? ~17,500 Gallon inground Plumbing is all 1.5" Equipment pad is roughly 20' from pool and at same elevation 2 intakes (1 skimmer + main drains) 7 returns (3 on side, 2 in step section + 2 laminar jets that I use only occasionally, but when I do I like them to fly high) Pentair Sand Dollar SD80 (3.5 sq ft filtering area, 50PSI max (consistently reads 20PSI w/ existing 1.5HP pump), 75GPM max flow rate Pump flow rates are ~90 for 1HP, ~100 for 1.5HP. As always, I'm very thankful your advice.
  15. Thanks, Pool Clown. It's intermittent, but she's singing more and more. I ordered an identical replacement for an outstanding price from a reputable online retailer, and picked up some new Southwire conduit and fittings today. I'll probably switch it out as soon as I find the time - which may be before it fails - because my schedule is pretty hectic right now. Do you foresee any problems using the existing unions for a couple of months, and then installing the new unions later, probably at closing? Thanks as always, I appreciate your advice.
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