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f499

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  1. Quick Facts: Innova Spa Urbania, 110v/240v, Balboa spa pack VS300. Hot tub was initially wired with 110v setup, and ran fine. Heater was good (@110v, 1kw, of course not running when pump on high speed). No issues keeping tub at 102F. We finally got around to getting a 50a disconnect installed, with 6/3 wiring. We did our fall water change, and wired up the tub with 240v setup. Followed the instructions: removed the jumper wire linking J11 and J32 and moved the dip switch to the down position/off/high amp mode. Flow is good, as the tub was filled via the filter compartment. To our surprise, no heat. The water temp started at about 80F, and eventually it dropped to 77F over a 4 hour period. I did some searching, and decided to do persistent memory reset. Got the tub back running, and let it run overnight. Woke up this morning: still 77F (outdoor temp was about 28F, so assume pump was keeping it at about 77F) Did a voltage test and ohms test. All good. (multimeter, AC mode and touching both heater terminals: 240v) Ohms was about 14 if memory serves me right. Continuity was good too. We decided to revert back to 110v, to see if heater would work. Plugged it in at about 4pm today. Over the last 4 hours, it has climbed by 10 degrees (from 77F to 88F), which seems normal for the heater running on 110v (1kw) So, assume the heater is fine, when wired for 110v (with jumper wire back on and dip switch back to up/on position) Has any ever encountered this scenario, where the heater won't work in 240v mode? We've called a tech, and scheduled an appointment in about a week.
  2. Inground pool, 6 years old. No issues since day 1. Just got it running, since being dormant for the winter. Pump is running fine, but the stream seems to be more "bubbly" than usual. 1.0hp pump is running 18psi. Once we plug vacuum hose to skimmer, and start vacuuming the pool, it vacuums fine for about 4-6 min. Around that time, the pump has a hard time keep it's pressure, and starts to produce intermittent stream and lots of bubbles via return jets in the pool. Go to check pump, and it's starting to lose prime. I believe, normally, in running/filtering mode, the pump produces a constant stream in the basket area of the pump (no big bubble action). So, seems like a minor air leak. Then, once we plug vacuum, it becomes too much, and eventually loses prime. We have re-lubed the o-ring of the basket cover. We have checked the impeller, for debris. No issues, as impeller turns freely. Have blown the skimmer hose (between skimmer and pump). No issues, blows hard, and no debris. Not sure what to check next, before making a service call. Any suggestions? F499
  3. Our new inground pool is almost complete. Our electrician is coming next week to install the pump, heater, salt chlorinator, lights, etc... I've been reading the manuals over the weekend and I am curious to see how all this equipment will be wired. Here are the specifics: Jandy Lite2 Model LJ Heater (including optional pump relay) Zodiac LM2-24 Salt Chlorinator Jacuzzi Magnum 1hp pump All will be installed with 220V (14/2 wire with 15a double breaker). The Jandy heater recommends that the pump be wired through the heater, via the optional pump relay. The Jandy wiring diagram is simple to understand. My question mark is the salt chlorinator. It's made to run off 220V. Will the electrician connect the salt chlorinator via the pump relay in the Jandy heater, by connecting the chlorinator power wires to the load side of the relay (screws 2 and 4?)? Or, will the chlorinator be wired same as pump, via screws 4 and 8? The goal is to have the chlorinator work in sync with pump. But, if the relay has the pump and chlorinator in "OFF" mode, where does the chlorinator get its power for the led lights, etc.. From battery back-up? Sorry for all the questions, but we're all very anxious for the big day!! Thanks in advance, F499
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