three4rd

Hi, My pool water is awful. I can't even see my feet in the 3-foot end! I've tried about everything I know - extra clarifier (I use softswim products), 'assist' (filter-aid), and many, many changes of DE already. I have a real problem with filter pressure continuing to go up. I can change it every few days. The water looks like it is full of real small particles. Could it be the change to the Aqua-Perl? I've read where some people like the stuff and some don't like it at all. Tomorrow I plan to dump this load of Aqua-Perl and go back to regular DE just to see if I can clear it up. I had the water tested and everything is pretty much within normal limits, with the exception of calcium hardness being a bit low. I have a gunite pool. Any suggestions would be great. I know from reading around here as well as hearing people in the pool store I go to that MANY folks are having trouble with cloudy water this season. Basically the pool feels and smells ok (except for right now due to all the chemicals I've put in the past few days - it smells more like swimming in a chemical bath), but the cloudiness is really bad. It's really a bummer since I'm hosting a High School graduation party this coming weekend and would like the pool in much better shape than it is now! Thanks, Keith

Hi, I've read all about the need to open the hydrostatic valves that are located near the main drain and also (sometimes) in the shallow end. My pool has 4 valves in all. And, I know all about the possibilities of inground pools 'floating'. Here's my question, however: When the pool was dug and built, obviously there was no water present. We live on top of a fairly steep hill. Why would there be water (i.e. hydrostatic pressure) under there now? Where we live I'd be frankly amazed if there is any water to be found 10-feet under the ground (and our pool is only 6-feet deep). I think it more likely that any water would be at least 50-60 feet down. I don't know what the depth of the average aquifer is in our area, but most wells around me are down 100-200 feet. I would certainly remove the plugs when it comes time to drain to replaster (soon) just because that's what you're supposed to do, but i find it hard to believe that there would even be a drop of water below the pool, let alone any pressure. If anyone has any thoughts as to this, please let me know. I can see that in areas with high water tables, it is more of a concern. Thanks, three4rd

It must be working, then, because I can shut off the system and no water even leaves the pump. It stays full until I start up again. I'm beginning to wonder if there even is an air leak at all? I don't really see air in the pump..but then it swirls around so fast in there and looks like bubbles are created. Doesn't agitated water of this sort generate some air? This pump is most definitely moving alot more water than the old one, which probably wasn't working all that well anymore. I guess the missing piece of info here is whether or not it is normal to always have some air in the tank or is it not normal? If I bleed the relief valve in the morning should there be more air in the tank by evening? Or, once bled, should only water come out everytime you open the valve?? Judging from the new plumbing - which is much better and tighter than what the other tech did, I can't see how there would be a suction-side leak. Where does the excess air go from that bleed tube?

Pool Clown, Thanks again for helping with my inquiry. Regarding the air bleed, inside the filter and attached to the DE grid assembly is a small tube, maybe 6-7 inches long (threaded fitting on one end where it attaches to the grids) and a small (not real fine) plastic screen on other end. Is this it??? I have no idea what this does......?? Is that tube possibly clogged? I've really never done anything with that save for squirting some water in it once in awhile when I backwash and hose off the grids. I just assumed you were talking about the manual air relief valve on the outside of the tank at the pressure gauge. Here's what I'm talking about: If you check out this link to my filter - is item #4 and 10 the bleed you are referring to. If not, any idea what this does ?? http://www.poolcenter.com/parts_filter_anthony.htm Pressure with the new pump is same as the old - I start at around 10-12 psi. Starting pressure used to be around 6-7 but after I added a heat pump last summer it went up. No reason was given me for why this is. I'm just assuming it's due to the extra length of piping to and from the heat pump. The copper fittings are only at the filter...all other underground plumbing is PVC. Thanks again...I'll keep an eye on it and look for any difficulties with priming and/or water being pushed out of the pump upon shut-off. Best, three4rd

The problem with air accumulating in the filter tank is that when the internal bleed is not working, or can't keep up, the air bubble keeps getting bigger and it starts to reduce your filter area. Not only that, but that bubble is getting compressed while the pump runs, then when it shuts off, that bubble expands pushing the water back towards the pump and can drain the water out of the pump. The next morning, the pump may prime, or it may not (pump runs dry, heats plumbing, develops leak(s). It may be why you're pulling lots of air. Another scenario, This has already happened to your plumbing and you have a suction side leak. Now comes a new pump that may be drawing a little more water and that also means more air. Curious, Did you get a larger hp pump installed? Hi... Interesting and good response! Thanks. In answer to a few of your questions and observations...when you watch the pump prime and start actually it does not look like there is any air. Then again, how can one tell this? All fernco joints are gone now (thank goodness). The guy is really good compared to the other tech who put the ferncos in. This new guy soldered in copper fittings that were threaded on the male end so that they screwed right into PVC fittings. (I have an old Anthony pool/filter with the copper no-hub fittings). How can I tell if the air valve is working right? It opens and leaves the air and water out. Then again....for the last few years I have had to turn it in as far as it goes rather than only having to turn part way..so it's maybe worn out and leaking? I do have a new one but didn't put it in yet. Could this be part of the problem? You may have hit something there - that I thought of as well- namely, that the problem already existed but is now more pronounced with the new pump. My old original Anthony pump lasted 20 years and probably wasn't putting out the water pressure that the new Hayward super pump does. He put unions in both at the pump inlet and coming out of the pump, where there were none before. I even tightened the union at the pump inlet. How can you tell if indeed there is a suction-side leak?? Certainly there is no water leaking anywhere. There is also a bit of foaming in the pool around the return line but I'm wondering if this is due to a high level of algacide. I really dosed it heavily because the pool was shut down completely for 2 days after the fernco connection blew. Luckily we were home when it went! The foaming comes and goes. When swimming, though, there is alot of foam, so I'm inclined to believe it is due to chemicals. The new pump is same HP as the old one...the other tech (whom I'll never use again) said we should keep it the same. Too bad these air valves don't automatically let out air when needed...it's strictly manual. I don't know what to do...but I think I'll question the tech again on Monday. I'm just worried about excess pressure build up. It doesn't seem, so far, that there is any trouble with priming but I'll look for what you described. Any other thoughts...please pass them along. Thanks again.....

It is weird that they keep coming back. Can you maybe try a good stiff wire brush or a product called 'pool eraser' or something like that....it looks like a big eraser and attaches to your long pole at the end. Maybe it's something you can partially brush off. Also, maybe if you try a stain control product (like that made by BioGuard) and add it every season, that might help. It may be a problem developing underneath the paster for some reason. Hope you can get some good answers on this one. I'd probably have a good pool tech look at it for some suggestions.

There are also some liquid solar covers around now....many look like a plastic tropical fish...they are filled with a liquid that dispenses itself into the pool automatically over a period of 1-2 months. It creates a barrier one molecule thick that has solar blanket properties and also helps prevent evaporation. Personally, I don't like the blue bubble wrap anymore. The last few I bought were garbage and didn't last long. Once those bubbles pop and fill with water, the thing weighs a ton to try and lift in and out of the pool. Best way to go is a pool heater...really extends the swimming season.

Hi, I'm not sure I can help you. What do you mean by water draining "out of the overflow drain" ?? Where and what is this drain? As to your leak at the pump inlet, is there a union (like a big round piece that joins two section of pipe - will often say "hand tighten only" on it)? If so...just tighten this up a bit. Or, if there is a leak where the pipe goes right into the pump, just use an epoxy as you said. As for the attached spa...does it have its own skimmer? If so, is this clogged and could this be why it's filling up? I'm trying to picture your whole set up and can't. Maybe if you could upload some digital pics of some of what you're talking about and then provide links, you may be able to get someone here to help you out more. Sorry I couldn't offer any better suggestions.... three4rd

Hi, My 20-year old Anthony pool also needs replastering soon, but I'm trying to postpone the inevitable as long as I can. Some spots of bare gunite are showing through over the past few seasons, but I found a good underwater fast-set cement at poolcenter.com that seems to work pretty well. It covers the spots up, and really looks pretty decent. I realize you are talking about large areas and/or the entire shell, but I just thought I'd mention this product in case you felt the need to repair small areas. Best of luck.... three4rd

Hi, Many newer pumps, including mine (my old one also fried recently), are pretty much self-priming. Have you put a hose in the strainer and filled it up as much as it'll take? That's all it should need. It should, if the plumbing coming into the pump is good and tight, draw water through the lines and prime itself. If this doesn't work, then perhaps there is some sort of clog in the lines coming from the skimmer to the pump. Check your diverter valve in the skimmer to see which way it's turned. If the skimmer basket has lots of debris in it, maybe it's not drawing water due to that. Can you try drawing from the drain? Sorry I can't help much beyond those suggestions.... Best of luck...I'm sure you'll get it going. three4rd

Hi, I also have a 20-year old Anthony Pool, but I only have 1 skimmer and 1 drain, and so I can't help you out unfortunately. I have a diverter valve in the skimmer that turns toward either the skimmer side or the drain. When I'm partially draining for the winter, I just turn the valve towards the drain side once the skimmer starts to suck air below the tileline. Good luck..... three4rd

Hi, Sorry about the title....meant to say DE filter! I've been a pool owner for 20 years and just maybe noticed this, but - having just gotten a new pump (which does seem to have pretty strong water agitation inside the strainer basket) as well as all new plumbing between pump inlet, pump and filter, and filter to return line- my DE filter tank seems to accumulate air. I can bleed the air-relief valve, and then a few hours later I can open it up again and more air comes out before I get a stream of water. And, when I let the water stream run it seems to go in spurts and with an interrupted flow - just like running a spigot that has alot of air in the pipes. Is this something to be concerned about? The technician who did the work said that it's not unusual to have a filter tank get some air in it even though it's been bled at the valve. Some internet pool info I've been reading, however, cautions against letting the air build up inside a tank. I don't recall having this problem before, but then again except for after backwashing/cleaning the DE grids, I've never really bothered with the air relief valve much at all. Am I just being overly paranoid? I have had all sorts of plumbing problems that were done by a poor technician recently that resulted in fernco couplers blowing off that would have emptied my pool had we not been home! So maybe now I'm looking for problems......it's just that I don't recall this amount of air getting in the tank. Any suggestions? I've mentioned it to the new tech that maybe there is a suction-side leak that is drawing air, but he didn't think so and said that it's nothing to worry about to have some air in the tank. What about when we go away from home for a period of time, though? Won't it keep building up??? Thanks, three4rd