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Had Algae, Shocked, Now Cloudy And Wont Clear


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Ok guys, I know this is pretty common but I'm getting some mixed answers.

I'm opening my pool. I let it go Wayyy too far over the winter and we got bad algae. Dark green, couldn't see 6" into it.

I only have test strips and I know they aren't that great but I've managed to get the PH down(added 1 gal muriatic acid), Alk, and Hardness all in range. Also, I've shocked the death out of it (4 lbs at first then 12 lbs about 5 days later)so the Free chlorine is very high as I was told to keep it high during this time, have tablets in my Chlorine dispenser and in floating dispensers, I've been running the sand filter 24/7 for over a week. Added one bottle of Clarifier, One bottle of Algecide.

The water is now a very light milky blue. Very cloudy. I tried FLOcing it but didn't notice any difference. I was told to backwash several times a day(which totally contridicts what Ive read online) I have started backwashing but If my sand filter just isn't filtering out the microscopic Algae particles because they are so small, Why wouldn't I leave it and allow it to get stopped up so it would filter tinier particles?

I have now turned the pump off just this morning to see if some of the particles will sink and maybe I can vacuum them up.

What should I do?

Floc some more?

Run the filter 24/7 and keep backwashing?

Run it and DON'T backwash?

Should I add DE to my filter?

I'm just before calling someone to come get the water cleared up then I can take it from there.

HELP!

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You should be adding chlorine regularly to clear the pool of algae. Chlorine will kill the algae and let it get filtered out. You need to raise the FC to around 40% of the CYA level and maintain that level until the algae is all dead -- usually the green will turn to cloudy white when this happens. To measure such high FC levels as well as measuring the CYA level, you should have a proper test kit, the Taylor K-2006 you can get at Amato Industries.

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I have kept the Chlorine level HIGH. The water is cloudy but seems to be very slowely starting to clear. I have blindly vacuumed on waste several times and got lots of junk off the bottom but without being able to see the bottom I feel like im just stiring it up.

I got a better test kit of the weekend and it reads higher than it will give me a reading. Like where as the water should turn yellow for the correct amount of FC, its ORANGE. Also, Ive tested the Ph and it seems low but not too low. Ima be honest, I have not learned how to properly read the tables and figure out what i need to do to get it right. Ill retest tonight and try to post the results.

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Well excess algaecide as well as clarifier and floc can actually make the water even cloudier. You can try adding some DE to the sand filter for finer filtration. Also, if your pool was already saturated with calcium carbonate (to protect plaster surfaces, for example), then you can lower the pH to see if that helps though you reported that it was low.

Basically, you are flying blind using an OTO chlorine test kit. Also, the pounds of chlorine you added might be Dichlor which would increase the CYA level even higher -- if it were Cal-Hypo then that would increase the Calcium Hardness (CH) -- what do the ingredients say on the pounds of chlorine that you added? Basically, neither should be used for shocking and you should have been using chlorinating liquid or bleach (i.e. sodium hypochlorite).

I'll bet that your Cyanuric Acid (CYA) level is through the roof so that makes any chlorine you add very ineffective. If your CYA is high, then you need to do water dilution (partial drain and refill) to lower it.

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Im considering the DE addition also. The pool is a vinyl lined pool so shouldn't be a problem with calcium carbonate right? This is the shock I used (Trichlor) http://www.walmart.com/ip/Pool-Essentials-Shock-5pk/19795892As well as some AquaChem Super shock.

Here the results from the basic droplet text I took yesterday: I have this test kit http://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/kokido-5-way-reagent-swimming-pool-test-kit/pid-638779?color=White&N=345106038

FC - Unknown - Off the chart (ORANGE)

PH - LOW (6.8-7.0)

Total Alk - 60 ppm (I think tats right, it took 6 drops to get the green sample to turn red)

I know I need to be able to check CYA, but this is what I have right now.

Since its a vinyl liner, Im considering dropping two water hoses in this sucker and letting it pump to drain, keeping an eye on it so it doesnt get too low then bringing the level back up and going at it again. What do yall think?

 

Well excess algaecide as well as clarifier and floc can actually make the water even cloudier. You can try adding some DE to the sand filter for finer filtration. Also, if your pool was already saturated with calcium carbonate (to protect plaster surfaces, for example), then you can lower the pH to see if that helps though you reported that it was low.

Basically, you are flying blind using an OTO chlorine test kit. Also, the pounds of chlorine you added might be Dichlor which would increase the CYA level even higher -- if it were Cal-Hypo then that would increase the Calcium Hardness (CH) -- what do the ingredients say on the pounds of chlorine that you added? Basically, neither should be used for shocking and you should have been using chlorinating liquid or bleach (i.e. sodium hypochlorite).

I'll bet that your Cyanuric Acid (CYA) level is through the roof so that makes any chlorine you add very ineffective. If your CYA is high, then you need to do water dilution (partial drain and refill) to lower it.

 
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I hate to be a pool snob, but I'm gonna be a little bit. ;-)

Ditch the Chinese test kit, get the Taylor k-2006 recommended by Chem Geek.

And don't buy your chems at Wal-Mart. I LOVE Wal-Mart, but not for pool supplies (except maybe a noodle or water wings). I don't know why, should be the same chems, but people always seem to have problems keeping a nice pool with WM chems. Go to the pool supply store.

That's my two cents...other than that Chem Geek is way smarter than me, so whatever he says, you should do

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Yes, draining from the bottom at one end and filling from the top at the other end can also dilute the water if you do this with the circulation pump off. It's not perfectly efficient, but it's not bad.

By the way, for every 10 ppm Free Chlorine (FC) added by Trichlor, it also increases Cyanuric Acid (CYA) by 6 ppm.

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UPDATE!

I ran fresh water into the pool until it was level with the deck.(overflowing) Actually just forgot to turn the hose off before I went to bed. I was advised to buy some "down and Out" Clarifier at $22 a bottle. I opted to buy a cheaper brand from Academy Outdoors @ $8.00/bottle I think. Put the Clarifier in, ran pump to circulate and turned it off over night. the next day the pool was nearly clear.. I vacuumed to waste as I now could see the bottom. I did a second round of clarifier, circulate, shut off, settle and Vacuum to waste. The pool is crystal clear except for a very small amount of algae I need to vacuum out this evening. I was just before calling a pool guy to come out and charge me $85 to tell me that what it needed.

It wasn't easy, nor cheap to get this thing straightened out but I learned ALOT and Now I am armed with knowledge and toold to better maintain our pool. Thanks for the help on here as well.

FYI, I will not be allowing the FC to bottom out during next winter and I will not just leave the pump off...lol

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Thanks for the update. It's a lot easier to maintain it clear than to fix it once it's gone south. Maintaining an FC that is at least 7.5% of the CYA level will prevent green and black algae growth regardless of algae nutrient levels.

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