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cplarsen

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  1. Which was my point. Avoid the low chlorine level in the first place, then the rest becomes academic.
  2. Umm, there's no way for a filter to trap particles without becoming clogged. Now, a natural clarifier may be easier to clean off the filter later than a oil based one, but it fills those little 10 micron holes just the same.
  3. Umm, since he's worried about biofilms, I wouldn't recommend a low chlorine routine at all. Go high, and just dump and refill more often to cover the CYA problem. btw, I notice a slight cough problem from my tub too. But it hasn't returned since I quit worrying about nailing the numbers exactly. These days, I just throw in a tablespoon of dichlor a day, period, and shock once a week with MPS. Sure it's more than needed, but chlorine and water are cheap.
  4. Give it a try both ways. I think you'll soon find no suit is vastly preferable for a host of reasons.
  5. You can get it here http://www.rhtubs.com/ But honestly, I'd just dump and refill. I've been avoiding the clarifiers as they'll clog up the filter a bit.
  6. Sounds like you're having the same problem I had, discoian. Try using muratic acid, 1/4 cup at a go till it comes down. Much cheaper than Spa Down. See here for more. http://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=9634
  7. The breaker box has to be visible from the tub. At least 5 feet away, but no more than 15 (but check local code). Purpose is so a repairman (or you) can be dang sure the power is off.
  8. I'd say the surface needs to be cleaned first. But I'd contact the manufacturer and find out how, and with what. Email button is in the top right corner. http://www.leisuretimespa.com/
  9. A lot depends on the existing deck of course, but at a minimum, usually you'll need to beef up the beams. Find somebody who knows what they're doing. It's no fun when your deck falls down. Especially if you're on it.
  10. Bring a jug of straight Clorox bleach and put in about 3-4 ounces (bring a shot glass) before use. Should be good enough and should all be gone when you dump it back in the lake. And I'd dump it all back in the lake.
  11. Well, you should have shot back, "What do you want to do with the stuff inside the house"?
  12. Sorry, should have been more clear. Mine is still run in conduit, which is what makes it meet code.
  13. What you do is bury or trench in 1" I.D. PVC pipe or conduit ahead of time and the electrician can pull wire through that at anytime. http://www.wikihow.com/Install-Outdoor-Electric-Wiring Ignore the bit on the UF cable, you don't want use do that. The trick is to do as little digging as possible. Unless you enjoy digging. I ran mine along the side of the house just under the siding, then under the deck. Avoided the whole thing. Oh, buy the wife a shrubbery, and paint the box to match the house.
  14. No doubt. Can only blame Nature2 for this. They should have done a better job with their educational material.
  15. Because it's more expensive. http://enzymes.cre8ivegroup.com/spaproduct...CFQ9jHgodZx7IZw Have heard good things about it though, and if you're really sensitive to chemicals, I'd give it a shot.
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