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cofive

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  1. The cloudiness is probably the calcium precipitating out of the water due to the balance product. Your filter will eventually filter it out but only if the filter remains clean itself. So hose your filter out every other day for a few days to keep it from being clogged up with the precipitate. Ken
  2. I'd call that near perfect. The (-) CSI is fine.
  3. OK, it's official.. the geeks have hijacked the thread ;-) time for a dip... It is like watching the "The Big Bang Theory" show...LOL But, thanks again guys, you do provide a wealth of information that does eventually come together for the average user. I'm a convert to the dichlor-bleach method. I use only a couple chems (baking soda, muriatic acid, calcium chloride); test twice a week with drop tests; and am a happy tubber. Oh yeah, and I don't worry about TDS with this system. Ken
  4. I find if you're keeping your Cl consistently at 3ppm there is no need for a weekly shock. This is a recommended gimmick to use more product. As is evident by your low chlorine demand after shocking, it probably isn't necessary. As stated in another thread, shocking is usually needed only to "catch up" after falling behind. Ken
  5. Yes I'm using 6% Clorox and getting a drift from the 7.4 to 7.6 range into the 7.8 range. I will also take the advice from QCD and i'll shoot for the and maintain the 7.6 to 7.8 range. Not a big deal adding the .5oz of acid on occasion, just was curious. Ken
  6. I have a TA of about 50-60 in an attempt to hold my Ph in the 7.4-7.6 range. I've seen the advice that with low TA the addition of borates is helpful and will also buffer the Ph. My question is, will the borates buffer the Ph rise due to the use of bleach in the dichlor/bleach method? I am finding that my Ph creeps each week and I have to add about .5oz of Muriatic Acid to bring it down. Other than this creep, I am sworn to the dichlor/bleach method, it's easy and inexpensive. For the record I also found the CYA reduction does happen per month, so I use dichlor for a few days (10ppm) once a month. Ken
  7. Yes it will go down and it is from the intial shock. Just a word of caution again, the test strips are not very accurate.
  8. A good Taylor test kit is a must (K2006) it has the CYA test in it. The MPS method seems very viable, I just had a sensitivity to the MPS. Yes MPS will drive your Ph down, so you want to monitor it and even keep your TA higher to stabilize it. Use regular baking soda for that. Dichlor is the chlorinating granules you already have. The borates can either be in the form of ProTeam's Gentle Spa, available online or at spa shop, or borax (20 Mule Team) or boric acid, not sure where the experts recommend getting it. Ken
  9. Well time for me to voice in here. I am using N2 with the dichlor/bleach method with good success. I was one of those people with the sensitivity to MPS and had to give that up. Now I use a low-chlorine recipe using bleach. Built CYA to about 30ppm with dichlor then switched. I have a 330 gallon tub and on average get about 20 minutes of soak per night. I usually add 2 ounces of bleach, which raises my Cl by 3ppm. This leaves anywhere from 0.5 to 2ppm for my next soak.(2tsp of Dichlor raises it by 4ppm during that part of the process) CC has been negligible, I believe due to maintaining a constant Cl level. Will shock with up to 6 oz. of bleach if and when neccessary. Added ~40ppm of borates, but still not sure of the real affect of that addition. Will monitor CYA in case there is a drop as suggested there may be on a monthly basis. TA is around 70 and maintains 7.5-7.7 Ph. Will also adjust Ph as necessary with Muriatic Acid due to any rise from the bleach. All this being said, water looks great since last change, dry intensely itchy skin seems to be resolved and really, this is very easy to maintain. Forgot to mention, the tub does have an ozonator running on the 24/7 circulation pump. Ken
  10. I've been watching this thread and now have questions. I think I understand the coorelation between TA and Ph and how when you've adjusted the TA to a point that Ph is stable that we could call that the 'ideal' TA level. But I'm wondering is it at all possible to actually adjust both to say a 100 TA and a 7.5 Ph? And how would one do that? Is there really a way to raise TA and lower Ph or vise-versa, just to get numbers? Ken
  11. Thanks Mike. Do borates have any real affect on the skin? I was looking for something to lessen the drying affect of many hot tub dips. Ken
  12. I've been hearing a lot about the use of borates, but am unclear as the real benefit. I see that they can significantly increase Ph and requires the use of acid to bring the Ph in check, but what is the benefit? Does it offset other factors? Ken
  13. Can anyone report using Acid Magic (muriatic acid replacement)? Appears to be a buffered muriatic acid that is okay to use in spas. I was just curious if there are any adverse effects. Here is the narrative from SpaDepot's website: Acid Magic - Muriatic Acid Replacement SKU: CA1062 PRICE: $8.95 The Safer Spa & Pool Acid Acid Magic is the best product for dissolving calcium deposits on filter cartridges, and for cleaning tile and concrete. Use liquid Acid Magic to more effectively reduce high pH and total alkalinity in spas and pools. * Equal activity to Muriatic Acid No fuming problems Safer handling - does not burn intact skin More effective in reducing high pH than dry acid products Very economical to use -- a little goes a long way Superior for filter scale cleaning Great for cleaning salt chlorine generator cells Acid Magic offers the advantages of liquid acid products while nearly eliminating many of the dangers, including skin burns and toxic fumes. Dramatically more effective in reducing stubbornly high pH and TA than dry pH Decreaser. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Removes Filter Cartridge Scale Muriatic Acid washing of filter cartridges is a problem because of dangers associated with product handling. Acid Magic is equally effective in removing calcium deposits, but much safer to use. It's easier on filter media, so filters last longer. First clean filter with Power Soak or Eco Soak, rinse, then soak the cartridge in a solution of one part Acid Magic to twenty parts water until all bubbling stops. Presto! Scale is gone! (Read and observe all safety precautions on bottle). -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Product notes: For pH adjustments, start by using 1 1/2 oz. of product per 500 gallons water, if pH is above 8.0. (2 tablespoons = 1 oz.) Check with test strips to determine additional adjustments. Diluted Acid Magic is great for cleaning salt chlorine generator cells, such as Nexa Spa. Read bottle instructions and precautions before using. Contains specially-buffered hydrochloric acid. *Acid Magic is not registered for pH adjustment in California. 32 fl. oz. Ken
  14. Here's some interesting reading for those that are suffering like I am. I've emptied and refilled. Will not touch MPS or even dry acid, will subsitute muriatic acid for my Ph lowering needs. I'll keep you posted. Just did a "peroxymonosulfate allergy" search. http://www.thepittsburghchannel.com/health...599/detail.html http://www.wave3.com/Global/story.asp?S=9619668 Ken
  15. Richard, While doing some reading regarding what I believe is an allergy to MPS, I came across some information that stated that if one suspects an allergy to MPS because of the sulfates, the use of dry acid may also be a culprit because of the bisulfate. Any thoughts on this? Also what is the makeup of Muriatic acid? I am going to do a drain and fill, strictly follow the dichlor/bleach method and avoid any non-chlorine shock products and sodium bisulfate (if possible). I'm crossing my fingers that this will finally resolve the rash issue once and for all. Ken
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