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ed3553

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Spa Savant

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  1. Are you seeing steam come from the seam or where the halfs come together? There is no way this should increase your electric by $200. Your temp drop can be affected by several variables such as wind and temp. Is your compartment door vented? If so try covering the vents to keep the heat in and the wind and cold out. I also think you will find it cheaper to keep it at the same temp all the time.
  2. Just keep it all 1.5" and at the heater install the 2" x 1.5" fitting. No sense in spending more money on 2" plumbing since the rest of the pool is 1.5"
  3. This will have to reset by a professional. There is no simple fix for your situation. I would have a company who installs fiberglass pools do this for you.
  4. Do as poolguy suggested. Find a company to come out and open and take good notes. I would have to guess he must be including other things for $650.
  5. If your having to work that hard with your salt system there is something out of balance. You should not be having that much problems. Most often we find the reason people are having a problem is user error due to improper training. Be certain your ph level is at the proper level 7.2 -7.4, keep your CYA at 40ppm, also test your free chlorine and combined (total) chlorine if your combined chlorine is 1ppm or more higher than your free chlorine your pool needs to be shocked. As far as how much it will cost you in tablets there are several variables it is hard to get a accurate cost on this. You might spend $40 a month while your neighbor spends $20. What I can tell you is that the problems you are having will still exist with chlorine tablets until you fix the underlying problem. Oh one more thing you should not be spending $800 plus on replacement cell. What system do you have?
  6. If you are thinking of removing the factory panels that came on it and leaving what is behind them exposed I would not do that. The materials used behind the factory panels are not designed to be exposed to the elements.
  7. It is usually the heater relay board. Disconnect power and inspect the back of the heater relay board for burnt areas. You can also trace it backwards with a meter. The thermistors have a very low failure rate.
  8. Do not put stop leak in your spa...... Is it possible the noise your hearing under the deck it the bubbling from the floor drain / heat return. As far as the leak that you will have to remove some foam to locate . If the equipment compartment is dry then the leak in in the foam.
  9. You can order this online. Just search suction fittings and get the one that measures the size you have. Do not give them $45.00
  10. Have you checked the two red resets on the side of the control box. One is the heater and the other is the spa high limit
  11. You are the man....I had just figured out that the tab was what held it in place....next question I have some of the 5in "American Products Cyclone Jets" you can see a pic of them at this site.. http://discountspaparts.com/asccustompages/products.asp?cartID=&affID=&categoryid=446&navParent=202 I need to replace the swirl jets as they dont work any more but I cant figure out how to get them out...they dont have the tab like the others ones.....any thoughts Turn the cyclone jet counter clockwise continue to turn it even when it catches and it will pop out
  12. More than likely you will be fine. Leave the breaker off for the spa. Open the control box and unplug the connections and blow everything off with compressed air. Depending on outside air temp I would leave it for a day or two then turn the breakers back on.
  13. Did you check the relay on the board it may be stuck closed. With the 24hr circ pump and a stuck relay the spa will just continue to heat up.
  14. Sounds like you have some old bulbs. The original bulbs would allow water in to the socket. This would cause them not to work. If they are the old style bulbs they need to be removed the socket dried out (blown out with air) and the new style installed. How old is your spa btw.
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