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The reason the heater is not supposed to be run is because the plaster needs to cure or plaster dust can adhere to the elements inside the heater. Down the road, this can cause the heater to burn up. Normally, they tell you not to run it for 14 days but if you have been brushing like you were supposed to, you probably will be okay, probably. If dust is still coming up, keep brushing before you run it. It's your call but you should ask yourself if heating the pool outweighs taking any chances with the heater. If the heater manufacturer gets called for a warranty issue, they are going to look at those elements. If you bought a new car and they told you not to wash it for 14 days because the paint would come off, would you just go ahead and wash it at 11 days because you had a hot date that night?

With pavers, you have to put the rods in. If not, the weight of an anchor cover will pull the the pavers out of the ground. Actually, if you get a bunch of weight on the cover (like snow or the cover pump dies and lots of water gets on it, or that elephant you have seen in ads walks out on it) they can still pull them out of the ground even with the rods. In other words, covers are better friends with concrete than they are with pavers. The brass anchor is 2.5" and fits into the 18" rod. In concrete, the 2.5" anchor by itself is fine, in pavers it eventually pulls the brick out of the ground. Ideally, the pipes would be 18" in the ground. Many factors come into play as to if they actually end up at that depth. There are several tricks to limit the chance of hitting pipes when installing those rods. You have to be very careful and very aware or you run into the problem you are having. Sometimes, no matter how careful you are, you can hit something.

You have to be very careful when installing anchors in pavers. The anchor rods are 18" long and plumbing is usually somewhere around that depth. Can be less, can be more, you never know. The cover guy should have been more careful. He also should have let you know that he hit the pipes. And yes, he knew he hit the pipes. With a new pool, it is best to flag out the pipes and to install them in a way to minimize the odds of being hit when the anchors are installed. With an older pool, you are kind of stuck with what you got and it is much more tricky. I would guess that he was in a hurry that day, was running around like a maniac trying to get done and just pounded away on the rods until they were all the way in. If the agreement states that he is not responsible for anything he hits underground, you are probably stuck. If not, you have a good case to have this fixed at his expense. A good cover installer would have taken the time to ensure not hitting the pipes (as much as possible) and fixed anything that he broke. "it's construction and if you hired someone to put up a picture in your house and they hit a wire and knocked out all your electricity it wouldn't be their fault." True to a point. But, there is a reasonable expectation that they aren't going to just start hammering nails all over the place either nor are they going to do it right by an outlet. Visit My Website

The problem with leaving a stump, or part of (grinding), is that it will eventually rot. This can create a sinkhole or settling problem under the structure on top of it.

An expansion joint is recommended. It helps prevent the pavers from putting pressure and stress on the coping. That pressure can cause the tile and the coping to crack or pop off. It could also damage the beam. Unfortunately, I have seen this time and time again. Homeowners don't realize that it is needed and the deck mason may not be familiar with how decking should be done around a pool. Just because someone has done thousands of pavers doesn't mean they know exactly how a pool company recommends they be installed. I have had many battles with landscapers and masons (and even paver manufacturers) about that expansion joint (usually because it is ugly). Bullnose is much stronger than regular brick coping but you should still need an exp. joint, particularly if you are in an area with freezing and thawing. The pool co's mentioned this because they don't want their work damaged or a warranty issue from something they did not do. Which, by the way, they probably have a clause in the warranty addressing this and voiding out their responsibility. Although pavers don't normally address swimming pool installation instructions, the mason should have known what to do. Of course, he may have a valid argument that you should have researched this and told him about it as well. You have three options: 1. leave it and take a chance 2. pull up the pavers and redo 3. saw cut the pavers, install an expansion joint or pool caulking

I hate to scare you either but you need to get the builder out there immediately. I would give them a fair chance to explain the situation to you before totally freaking out. IMO, the beam is far from acceptable workmanship. It is important that you listen carefully to what the builder's plan to correct it is. If it is just to level the beam with mud when they do the coping, you are going to have serious probems later with the tile. Pool Clown is right, looks like the first pool they ever shot (or maybe it was a very late night the night before).

Have any pictures? Shotcrete should not be smooth. It should have a brushed (or slightly rough) finish to it or the plaster won't adhere to it. There shouldn't be footprints or voids in it though, that's sloppy. Slight imprints in it can be covered when it is plastered, but you don't want to fill giant holes with plaster. Ideally the beam should be as close to level as possible. The tile and coping guy will actually make the beam truly level, but you don't want one side of the pool way off from the other. Did you shoot this with a laser level or does it just look off (could be an optical illusion to the eye). Shotcrete should always be watered down, at least twice a day for 7 days. When it is hot, more. If it rains, you just had your watering done for you. Were the shotcrete guys subcontractors? Maybe the PB hasn't used them much or is on the verge of canning them and would like to know about what they did. Regardless, I would have the PB out to take a look at it. Tell him you will give them the check when they come explain to you that everything is okay or tell you what needs to be fixed. Keep in mind though, that your missed payment may put you on hold until they get it (and it clears).

Cracks like that are usually an indicator that it is time for a new filter. Like Pool Clown said, if you do patch it, do it on the inside. There is so much pressure in there that it will just blow out anything on the outside. Maybe one of those mesh, fiberglass patching kits (been awhile since I used anything like that so can't recommend anything specifically) might be something to look into, along with the silicone or epoxy. No matter what you do, it may only be a temporary fix and something that you keep having to mess with. If you do go with patching it, make sure that whatever you use cures for the proper amount of time. Unfortunately, water always finds a way. Let us know what you do and how it works out. Good luck.

Pool paint used to be lead based and last for awhile. Lead has been outlawed, so the new paints usually only last a couple of years. That means that the cost up front for painting might be attractive but the draining, refilling, aggravation and costs every couple of years is something to consider. If the pool is plastered, painting over it will cost big bucks later to replaster. I have seen people buy a house with a pool where the plaster was painted over. The previous owner just wanted a quick fix to dress up the pool for showing (and hiding the bad plaster). The new owner wished they had just left it the way it was and explained the situation. I have also seen homeowners that painted over the plaster just buy themselves some time before replastering was in their budget. Imagine the surprise when they realized how much money they just cost themselves by trying to save money? Just some things to consider. http://buyingaswimmingpool.blogspot.com

Right now, there are probably some out of work pool guys around that could help you with it. Try running a classified ad or calling the local pool supply place for a suggestion. An above ground pool is relatively easy to do. You could call some friends, get some beer and burgers and knock it out in no time as well. http://buyingaswimmingpool.blogspot.com

Unfortunately, you are really going to need to do your homework. Word of mouth is usually the best indicator. You are on the right track though in looking for a builder. Most pool companies send out a salesman who sells you the pool. After that, the salesman is gone and completely has no control over what is going on in your yard. The complaints start there, as the pool gets passed on to someone else who then passes it on to someone else and so on. Pool companies have notoriously prescribed to this operational standard as they have not adapted to the times. Customers are spending a lot of money and they want to be treated like it. The pool companies still live in a 70s mentality, where they are right and you are wrong. A true builder is ideal but may be hard to find. Actually, they usually fall under "custom" pool builder. Often, these guys worked for one of the companies at some point and finally had enough. Good luck on your quest! http://buyingaswimmingpool.blogspot.com

Shotcrete guys know which concrete companies are reliable and which are not, normally. Unfortunately, the concrete comes hot from the plant and can only sit in a truck for so long. So, you are kind of stuck. The best thing to do is to call the concrete company and order the mix. Tell them that it needs to be perfect. As a matter of fact, you need a certificate stating exactly what it is. This locks the concrete company into guaranteeing they are selling you what they say they are. This ups the reliability but is still not a 100%. You can tell them that you will be drilling a core sample, at the 30 day cure mark and sending it out for an engineering psi test. That should motivate them to get it right. That is about all you can do, which is a pain. The shotgrete guys can feel when it is good and bad, but that doesn't mean they are going to tell the homeowner about it. A good way to tell is if they are really PO'ed before concrete gets there (because someone screwed a form up or something) or after the concrete gets there (besides if it is late). Temperature can affect the concrete (too hot and too cold out) and time between concrete trucks (assuming you will need more than one truck). http://buyingaswimmingpool.blogspot.com

You can ask but will probably get a puzzled look. Builders deal in PSI, 3000+ PSI Pneumatically shot in is about all the average homeowner needs to know. http://buyingaswimmingpool.blogspot.com

A step can be added and sounds like you may need one (or two). I suggest you figure out if you really, really want it. The problem is that it wasn't shot with the shell and could seperate from the shell (if not done properly). The gunite guy probably has gone back and added a step a million times and knows what to do with this. Was a step in the drawing? Did they forget it on accident or it was never put in? Do you have a picture? How To Survive Buying And Building A Swimming Pool

It is important to do your homework with builders. Especially right now. Make sure to interview several builders. Ask your neighbors who built their pool, how it went and for any recommendations. A warranty is only as good as it is worded and only as good as the company standing behind it. Here is some info to help: http://buyingaswimmingpool.blogspot.com