jeremyh

Never seen a blister leak, cosmetic finish. Feel the lip of your spa shell it may be 1/4" thick. Repair requires grinding out and using epoxy or a repair kit. There are acrylic repair guys that may be able to do that.

Interesting, but I'll give it a shot. 1st breaker size should not have to be changed. Both breakers should be the same size. Proper wire needs to be used according to length of run. No splices or junction boxes. If there is a breaker/wiring issue the breaker may be warm to the touch when tripped. If not that, I would look into an "over fill" or something with a small drip inside the spa dripping / leaking back on a component. If all spa equipment turns on and runs, typically it is not component related. Since it sounds most of the equipment was replaced you have other issues. as far as your questions, the spa should run as long as you want, with the exception of pump timers, regardless of heater (assuming proper pack configuration, for amp draw)

Figured it out after diving into tech manual. Pumps 2 & 3 have a max amps combined of 20a. Anything higher disables one of the pumps. Swapped in a new motor, and dropped 1/2hp impeller size, and everything is working fine. Fyi for anyone working on aeware stuff.

Assuming it is nothing too new, the proper jumper needs to be set on circuit board.

Chemical abuse or freeze damage is all I've seen cause that. Since you mention white build up, I am leaning too chems. Yes you need a new heating assembly.

Sold both, like both. The J300 line is hard to beat. It may not have all the bells, but it is a solid proven line. Plastic pan keeps the frame from rotting too. Covers on 4&5 are more custom/require special lifters. stopped selling caldera in '02, still selling jacuzzi. reguardless, buy from a dealer that offers good service it can be worth it when problems arise, and they will.

---- means spa water temp has exceeded112f or heater 118f. Most common problem is temp sensor, but a failure of circ/flow sw, or bad pcb could also be the problem.

Possible vibration issue since the pack/pump were moved back 1". Check for interference/anything touching pump/plumbing. Usually holding the problematic area will let you know where the problem is. Very nice noise by the way, bearing or something stuck in the impeller could be other options. To me it sounds like a nature2 stick rubbing the front of impeller.

Currently refurbing a 2009 PDC spa. Previous owner had pack replaced (aeware xm2 w/k600. p1 2sp, p2 1sp, p3 1sp, blower.) Pump 3 never worked. I used LL21 programing to enable proper spa config pump now works, but I can only run p2 or p3. Not all pumps at once. (Even on 60a setting) I'm thinking I may need a factory in.stick to get the proper program loaded. When talking to tech line they told me to use LL4 which i believe is 2 pumps with a circ. Obviously not the right setup. I dont mind the gecko packs, but I am more of a balboa guy. Also never seen a regular spa that would not run all jet pumps.

Flashing FLO means the flow switch is in the open position when the spa is calling for heat. Since you have changed the filters (I would remove them first), and flow switch the only thing left is the circulation pump. Could be airlocked, or failed. (smaller pump plumbed into heater, hot = definite failure) Save the temp sensor for when the spa goes into watchdog ----. If it is a Laing pump, 3yrs life span average. Spa is maintain heat thru freeze protection (jet pumps running)

Since the fuse is good, check the dip switches on the side of control pack. There should be one to select fiber optic / spa light. Confirm proper selection. Topside has 4 small bulbs that can be replaced from the underside, small standard screwdriver. If it is still not working I am leaning towards board. Only replaced 1 of those transformers due to home owners wiring. So you know that topside is obsolete (MAS560 control), and requires a retro kit. Watch how much you put into the control, when the time comes.

Unplug pumps black wire then start spa, if high speed works... You need to replace the bad relay, or change circuit board. Depending on your skill level that is.

White, black, and grey are the only colors available

I have sold a few since 2008-2010. So far the are reliable with the exception of the topside panel fogging up, and needing replacement. One downside to the Amore Bay is the tri fold cover. It costs more for a replacement, and it puts alot of stress on a lifter due to its weight.

Actually I am running a computer test, I finally got around to retesting and it came back down to the 190 range. Getting all worked up for nothing. Thank you anyways.