Hs Prodigy Question

[new2spa]

While my wife and I were at the HS dealer we had a chance to look (but not wet test) the HS Prodigy model. The dealer informed me that the Prodigy comes standard as 110V, which means if I wanted 220v I would need to "upgrade" the unit at a pretty step cost (think it was around $500). My wife and I really like the prodigy, however I am not a big fan of the fact that while the jets are on the heater is shut off. Does anyone have a prodigy on these forums and can let me know how fast the hot tub cools off while you are soaking in it? My fear is i go to soak in the tub for 20-30 minutes and the temp will drop 5 degree's.

The other model we are looking at is the Limelight Glow, now the Glow is 220v standard, but it doesn't have an ozone unit, and the prodigy does. Dealer informed me that if I want a ozone unit installed on the Glow it would be around $375.

[hd2000]

I've got the Prodigy, but mine is 220. It only drops about a degree in mid-winter if we are in it for 20-30 minutes. During the summer we set the temp a little lower and it barely drops at all no matter how long we are using it. When the temp begins to drop and the heater comes on, it discharges a substantial amount of hot water into the tub to keep the temp relatively stable. If it were a larger tub, you would probably see a greater drop. We have been in the tub for up to an hour and it's never dropped more than 2 degrees during a Ohio winter. Every tub I've had (3) has been 220 and I feel that going 220 vs 110 is worth it. My tub heats while I'm using it and if you stick with 110 it won't. Also, my tub heats a lot faster than a 110. That may or may not be important to you. The benefit for me is that when I change water, the tub is heated and ready for use later that same day. I've got the ozonator and ACE which is what I wanted. My wife and I are very pleased with the Prodigy. We have had larger tubs in the past, but at this stage with children gone and all that, the Prodigy is the perfect size for us and the ACE system to this point has worked wonderfully.

[new2spa]

I've got the Prodigy, but mine is 220. It only drops about a degree in mid-winter if we are in it for 20-30 minutes. During the summer we set the temp a little lower and it barely drops at all no matter how long we are using it. When the temp begins to drop and the heater comes on, it discharges a substantial amount of hot water into the tub to keep the temp relatively stable. If it were a larger tub, you would probably see a greater drop. We have been in the tub for up to an hour and it's never dropped more than 2 degrees during a Ohio winter. Every tub I've had (3) has been 220 and I feel that going 220 vs 110 is worth it. My tub heats while I'm using it and if you stick with 110 it won't. Also, my tub heats a lot faster than a 110. That may or may not be important to you. The benefit for me is that when I change water, the tub is heated and ready for use later that same day. I've got the ozonator and ACE which is what I wanted. My wife and I are very pleased with the Prodigy. We have had larger tubs in the past, but at this stage with children gone and all that, the Prodigy is the perfect size for us and the ACE system to this point has worked wonderfully.

HD is it true the diode for the ACE system only lasts 3 years and needs to be replaced at a cost of $400? I really like the ACE system but if it needs to be replaced every 3 years it seems like a waste to me.

[hd2000]

HD is it true the diode for the ACE system only lasts 3 years and needs to be replaced at a cost of $400? I really like the ACE system but if it needs to be replaced every 3 years it seems like a waste to me.

I can't say because mine isn't that old and the ACE system hasn't been around that long. I don't know how anyone can say it will only last 3 years since the system hasn't even been in use that long. Personally, I'm not worried about it. At the very worst, I'd simply have to go about my spa maintenence just as I have for the past 20 years. Most of the negative comments I have read are from people that don't even have it or are trying to relate it to some negative experiance they or someone they heard about had with a pool system. The ACE system is far different from salt water chlorine generators that are found in pools, but the concept is far from new. Check out places like Australia where they have been using them in pools almost exclusively for decades. If you think it would be a waste, don't get it. I got it and so far, I'm glad I did and I really don't expect to have to replace the cell in 3 years. I've had a HS spa in the past and going by what I know about HS, I expect the cell to last longer than 3 years, but if it goes after 3 years, I'll probably replace it because it has worked that well for me. You may feel differently about it, but I'm loving it and it's been worth it to me.

[new2spa]

HD is it true the diode for the ACE system only lasts 3 years and needs to be replaced at a cost of $400? I really like the ACE system but if it needs to be replaced every 3 years it seems like a waste to me.

I can't say because mine isn't that old and the ACE system hasn't been around that long. I don't know how anyone can say it will only last 3 years since the system hasn't even been in use that long. Personally, I'm not worried about it. At the very worst, I'd simply have to go about my spa maintenence just as I have for the past 20 years. Most of the negative comments I have read are from people that don't even have it or are trying to relate it to some negative experiance they or someone they heard about had with a pool system. The ACE system is far different from salt water chlorine generators that are found in pools, but the concept is far from new. Check out places like Australia where they have been using them in pools almost exclusively for decades. If you think it would be a waste, don't get it. I got it and so far, I'm glad I did and I really don't expect to have to replace the cell in 3 years. I've had a HS spa in the past and going by what I know about HS, I expect the cell to last longer than 3 years, but if it goes after 3 years, I'll probably replace it because it has worked that well for me. You may feel differently about it, but I'm loving it and it's been worth it to me.

Ya I was kinda shocked the dealer told me it would go bad after 3 years, not the whole unit, just the diode diamond part. I would figure at a $1000 a pop for the ACE system, they would want to ram it down your throat to buy it!

[hd2000]

All my dealer had to say about it was that so far nobody that had one has called for service and they have had no problems on the ones in the test soak tubs at the store. Nobody said it would only last 3 years and I really don't know how they could. As I said, it's not even a big deal to me. If I have to replace the cell after 3 years, I probably will. If I decide it's to expensive to replace, I'll simply go back to what I've been doing for years and what everyone else is doing. Heck the amount of chemicals I'd buy in place of what ACE is providing over a 3 year period would put a good dent in that $300 anyway. The difference would probably be worth it to me.

[new2spa]

All my dealer had to say about it was that so far nobody that had one has called for service and they have had no problems on the ones in the test soak tubs at the store. Nobody said it would only last 3 years and I really don't know how they could. As I said, it's not even a big deal to me. If I have to replace the cell after 3 years, I probably will. If I decide it's to expensive to replace, I'll simply go back to what I've been doing for years and what everyone else is doing. Heck the amount of chemicals I'd buy in place of what ACE is providing over a 3 year period would put a good dent in that $300 anyway. The difference would probably be worth it to me.

HD how much chemicals do you need to add with the ACE system working? Just PH? I know nothing of caring for a hot tub, so I am just going off what I am reading on the HS website about the ACE system. Thank you so much for the responses, I really feel fortunate I get to talk someone that has exactly what I want.

[spatech (the unreal one)]

Ya I was kinda shocked the dealer told me it would go bad after 3 years, not the whole unit, just the diode diamond part. I would figure at a $1000 a pop for the ACE system, they would want to ram it down your throat to buy it!

I think the dealer may be covering himself so you don't complain down the road. Most would go with the "dont ask dont tell" approach or give you the high end of the life expectancy for the part but it sounds like he's being up front and maybe figuring on the low end for life expectancy. Better to let the customer have al the information up front than not even mentioning it at all.

As far as 110 v 220 goes, 220 is preferable if ther are not extenuating circumstances (like extra cost) but if in a warm climate it doesn't really matter much. Plus, as far as being in it for 20-30 minutes, everyone is different but when I'm in for 30 minutes it amounts to maybe 5 minutes with the jets on and the rest with them off so the heater would be on the majority of the time for me. Your tendancy on that may vary of course.

[hd2000]

PH adjustment every once in a while and that's about it. I shock once a week. Initially, I tested all the time to see how it was doing, but after a while, it was pretty pointless. Now I test about once a week and I'll have to add a tablespoon of PH up or down every now and again. By the way, in case you didn't already know, junk the test strips and get yourself a Taylor kit to do your testing. I keep a spreadsheet of my test results and what I added, when I changed/cleaned filters and that sort of thing. It helps me a lot when I refill. Here is a example of what I've done as far as chemicals go this month. On the 6th and the 18th I added a tablespoon of PH down. That's it except for the weekly shock. My FC has never tested higher than 6 or lower than 2 since I got the tub. I've never added any salt between water changes. My water changes are about every 4 months. With all my previous tubs, I changed about every 3 months. We probably average using the tub 4 or 5 times a week for about 30 minutes with the jets on all but maybe 5 minutes and it's rare that there are more than my wife and I in the tub. Occasionally, my niece or my sister-in-law will come over and use it.

[Sailing_Faith]

I have a HS Sovereign, and while it is quite a bit older.. the issue of the 110v is the same.

The heater does turn off when the jets are on, but frankly I would be amazed if you were to notice much of a difference.

Water temp does not fall that quickly, I soak most days and have never had more then a degree of so of change...

Seriously doubt you would ever be able to tell the difference.

[hd2000]

Sailing Faith,

I think that the location has a lot to do with it. I get regular temps in the teens in the winter time and if you are using the spa in a warmer climate, you're correct that the temp will drop very little. Put that 110 Sovereign in NE Ohio in the middle of the winter and I can guarantee you will see the temp drop several degrees during use and it would take a lot longer to get it back up to speed. I'd almost be willing to bet that even if you didn't turn it on and just opened up the lid, it would drop a degree or two after 20 minutes or so even though the heater would be running.

[Dan.The.Spa.Man]

While my wife and I were at the HS dealer we had a chance to look (but not wet test) the HS Prodigy model. The dealer informed me that the Prodigy comes standard as 110V, which means if I wanted 220v I would need to "upgrade" the unit at a pretty step cost (think it was around $500). My wife and I really like the prodigy, however I am not a big fan of the fact that while the jets are on the heater is shut off. Does anyone have a prodigy on these forums and can let me know how fast the hot tub cools off while you are soaking in it? My fear is i go to soak in the tub for 20-30 minutes and the temp will drop 5 degree's.

The other model we are looking at is the Limelight Glow, now the Glow is 220v standard, but it doesn't have an ozone unit, and the prodigy does. Dealer informed me that if I want a ozone unit installed on the Glow it would be around $375.

There really is no "upgrade" to convert the Prodigy to 220volts. The only thing that you need is the 220 volt subpanel which is a little expensive if the dealer charges retail. If you have a good electrician, get the wiring diagram ahead of time, and get your own breakers. With that said, the wiring and breakers is very specific, so don't stray from the diagram thinking it would work another way.

The only other thing required is changing the jumpers on the control pad when it gets powered up. There are basic instructions for doing this in the electrical info.

[new2spa]

While my wife and I were at the HS dealer we had a chance to look (but not wet test) the HS Prodigy model. The dealer informed me that the Prodigy comes standard as 110V, which means if I wanted 220v I would need to "upgrade" the unit at a pretty step cost (think it was around $500). My wife and I really like the prodigy, however I am not a big fan of the fact that while the jets are on the heater is shut off. Does anyone have a prodigy on these forums and can let me know how fast the hot tub cools off while you are soaking in it? My fear is i go to soak in the tub for 20-30 minutes and the temp will drop 5 degree's.

The other model we are looking at is the Limelight Glow, now the Glow is 220v standard, but it doesn't have an ozone unit, and the prodigy does. Dealer informed me that if I want a ozone unit installed on the Glow it would be around $375.

There really is no "upgrade" to convert the Prodigy to 220volts. The only thing that you need is the 220 volt subpanel which is a little expensive if the dealer charges retail. If you have a good electrician, get the wiring diagram ahead of time, and get your own breakers. With that said, the wiring and breakers is very specific, so don't stray from the diagram thinking it would work another way.

The only other thing required is changing the jumpers on the control pad when it gets powered up. There are basic instructions for doing this in the electrical info.

I am so damn confused now... my dealer told me I needed to upgrade the unit. Am I being taken for a ride here at my local HS dealer? The Prodigy is one of the hot tubs that me and the mrs really like (have yet to wet test). But we hate the idea of needing to "upgrade" anything electrical. Ugh this hot tub buying thing is so stressful.. I need a drink damn it.

[Dan.The.Spa.Man]

While my wife and I were at the HS dealer we had a chance to look (but not wet test) the HS Prodigy model. The dealer informed me that the Prodigy comes standard as 110V, which means if I wanted 220v I would need to "upgrade" the unit at a pretty step cost (think it was around $500). My wife and I really like the prodigy, however I am not a big fan of the fact that while the jets are on the heater is shut off. Does anyone have a prodigy on these forums and can let me know how fast the hot tub cools off while you are soaking in it? My fear is i go to soak in the tub for 20-30 minutes and the temp will drop 5 degree's.

The other model we are looking at is the Limelight Glow, now the Glow is 220v standard, but it doesn't have an ozone unit, and the prodigy does. Dealer informed me that if I want a ozone unit installed on the Glow it would be around $375.

There really is no "upgrade" to convert the Prodigy to 220volts. The only thing that you need is the 220 volt subpanel which is a little expensive if the dealer charges retail. If you have a good electrician, get the wiring diagram ahead of time, and get your own breakers. With that said, the wiring and breakers is very specific, so don't stray from the diagram thinking it would work another way.

The only other thing required is changing the jumpers on the control pad when it gets powered up. There are basic instructions for doing this in the electrical info.

I am so damn confused now... my dealer told me I needed to upgrade the unit. Am I being taken for a ride here at my local HS dealer? The Prodigy is one of the hot tubs that me and the mrs really like (have yet to wet test). But we hate the idea of needing to "upgrade" anything electrical. Ugh this hot tub buying thing is so stressful.. I need a drink damn it.

The only thing that needs to be done to the tub is to change some jumper settings through the menu on the control pad. It takes about 30 seconds. As I said though the sub panel is pretty expensive and he may just be calling that the 'upgrade'. If you want the tub negotiate the price for the 110 version and get the 220 breakers on your own if you have a good electrician.

[hottubdan]

While my wife and I were at the HS dealer we had a chance to look (but not wet test) the HS Prodigy model. The dealer informed me that the Prodigy comes standard as 110V, which means if I wanted 220v I would need to "upgrade" the unit at a pretty step cost (think it was around $500). My wife and I really like the prodigy, however I am not a big fan of the fact that while the jets are on the heater is shut off. Does anyone have a prodigy on these forums and can let me know how fast the hot tub cools off while you are soaking in it? My fear is i go to soak in the tub for 20-30 minutes and the temp will drop 5 degree's.

The other model we are looking at is the Limelight Glow, now the Glow is 220v standard, but it doesn't have an ozone unit, and the prodigy does. Dealer informed me that if I want a ozone unit installed on the Glow it would be around $375.

There really is no "upgrade" to convert the Prodigy to 220volts. The only thing that you need is the 220 volt subpanel which is a little expensive if the dealer charges retail. If you have a good electrician, get the wiring diagram ahead of time, and get your own breakers. With that said, the wiring and breakers is very specific, so don't stray from the diagram thinking it would work another way.

The only other thing required is changing the jumpers on the control pad when it gets powered up. There are basic instructions for doing this in the electrical info.

I am so damn confused now... my dealer told me I needed to upgrade the unit. Am I being taken for a ride here at my local HS dealer? The Prodigy is one of the hot tubs that me and the mrs really like (have yet to wet test). But we hate the idea of needing to "upgrade" anything electrical. Ugh this hot tub buying thing is so stressful.. I need a drink damn it.

The only thing that needs to be done to the tub is to change some jumper settings through the menu on the control pad. It takes about 30 seconds. As I said though the sub panel is pretty expensive and he may just be calling that the 'upgrade'. If you want the tub negotiate the price for the 110 version and get the 220 breakers on your own if you have a good electrician.

Agreed.

[new2spa]

Thanks for the replies everyone. I really feel like because of where I live (Northern Indiana) 220v is a must. It's 22 degree's right now outside and it's almost April...

[saturnman]

I just upgraded to 220 and I think we did jumpers on the control board under the panel where the electrical wiring is. (I used my own electrician.) The problem is that it still doesn't do both the heating and jets at same time. Someone above mentioned maybe doing something on the control panel as well? The manual doesn't refer to that. I have a feeling it is something simple like a jumper not quite right or a reset or something but so far nothing has worked. Any ideas?

[jduncan_69]

I have a 2002 Prodigy and if you convert it to 220v it actually requires a 30A 220v circuit and a 20A 120v circuit to run the heater and the jet pump at the same time. On mine the jumper went between terminals 4 & 5 ant the netural for the 120v circuit ties in there. Then the 220v circuit goes on terminals 1 & 3 and the hot side of the 120v circuit goes on terminal 2. Hope this helps!

[PreservedSwine]

@ saturnman

The big terminal block jumpers are fine- you just need to move the tiny program jumpers (jp1-jp10) top the correct "converted" position. Look at the back of your IQ2020 control box, usually just one jumper in the first jp1-jp4 needs jumping. The control box will have a sticker on the back telling you exactly where they go for your model.