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LegsOnEarth

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    Sacramento CA
  • Interests
    Pools and Stuff
  • Gender
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  1. What's the square footage of the filter? Probably a 1hp or less would be fine, but it depends on how big your filter is.
  2. According to the measurements you are at about 28k gallons. Assuming you are in a pretty temperate enviroment, the 40k Cell should do fine keeping up with the pool. The cell will operate as long as the pump is circulating and will generate a percentage of the time based on how it is set. I would recommend you set it to something high to start and dial it back as needed. Usually people land around 60-40%
  3. For the Jandy Aqualink system, it is less expensive to buy the PDA wireless control system as part of your basic install then to install a wireless controller after installation. When you are building a Jandy Aqualink control system, you have the option of using their iAqualink, OneTouch or PDA controller options. The OneTouch is not wireless, the PDA is a wireless remote and the iAqualink uses your home computer network to allow for control via smartphones, tablets or PCs. Each has a different price point and each has various pros and cons, but if you want a "basic" wireless controller at any point I would suggest going with the PDA, since adding a wireless controller to the OneTouch system means paying twice for a control unit (basically) and the iAqualink I would only recommend if both you and your installer (well, them more so) are comfortable with setting up your home network. It requires a certain amount of networking savy to get up and running. Not a lot, but enough that if something isn't working and your contractor is technologically illeterate that you will have some fun problems down the road.
  4. Pools are a sealed system. "Drain" is a mis-leading name, as it doesn't drain water from the pool, but acts as the suction/intake portion of your pump system. Water is pulled from the "Drain" at the bottom of your pool and circulated through your filter before returning to the main body of water. There isn't a plug to pull like a bathtub. If you need to drain water from your pool, you can usually do so by attaching a hose to a hose bib at your equipment pad and running your pump to circulate water through the system. Check around your equpment pad for a hose bib (looks just like the fitting your garden hose would attach to) or look at the base of your filter as some contractors will install a hose bib on the filters drain plug. Another option, if your sand filter has a multi-port valve (a valve with multiple positions, not a "push-pull" or slide style valve) then there will most likely be a bypass position that lets you circumvent the filter and drain water out via your backwash plumbing or hose. Hope that makes sense.
  5. The two ports on the bottom are probably floor returns, judging by your plumbing nad the fact that you only have a wall return for your pool sweep. The pool sweep return is both a port for connecting your sweep and a return, but judgin from the way your plumbing was done, it would seem that is will on be acting as a return when the booster pump is engaged (common). You should have 2 drains (technically one split drain) in the deep end, which it sounds like you have. It's a very simple set up over all.
  6. Online Pricing can be a bit skewed. Do you have anymore information about the control system they are installing? Are they selling wireless as an upgrade to the control system for an Additional 2000.00, or is that the price tag for a complete wireless system? A wireless remote alone for most control systems will run about 600-800, with the base system alone costing 1300.00 approximately.
  7. Buy a new one, and get a Letro p/n LA01N. The haywards are kinda garbage, at least in my opinion.
  8. Do you have a heater on your pool? Sounds like you still have copper in the water, and I doubt that the 5in1 is going to be a significant enough amount to cause the problems you're having. Have you had your source water tested as well?
  9. Red DIrt? Red dirt usually means there's iron in the soil, which would potentially stain your pool plaster. You can check to see if it is a metal stain by putting a vitamin C tablet on the stain and seeing if it gets removed. You can also cut a lemon in half and use that if you don't have the vitamins. If that works, you can treat your pool with a small amount of vitamin c to remove the staining. If it doesn't pass the "lemon" test then you might just have an organic stain. Organic stains can be removed by spot application of chlorine to the stains, and sometimes just from super chlorination. What color is your plaster?
  10. Sounds like you may have black algae, not dirt, since it is concentrated in low flow areas of your pool (bench, stairs, etc). If you have a salt system, it is too cold for the cell to produce chlorine (needs water temp to be higher then 59F). I would check your chlorine levels to see if you have any in the water at present.
  11. Do you know who the manufacturer of said remote was? Typically, sales and distribution centers do not do warranty work for companys and those claims and issues are taken care of by the manufacturer. It would probably be a good idea to contact them if you haven't already. I am sorry for you remote though. I don't really feel a need to stick my neck out for PSW, being my competition, but if you were to purchase it from myself or any other outlet you will typically be refered to a manufacturer. They are usually much better equiped to handle you issues and resolve them quickly.
  12. I don't see a lot of reason to use products like PR10000, since you should really never need it when your water is properly balanced. I think most people on this particular board will agree with that staement too. Phosphate removers are, basically, a placebo, and you can find a lot of articles detailing that in the chemistry section of this forum. I would save the money, honestly, and just be aware of your CYA level in relation to your free chlorine. More often than not, I see pool guys dumping gallons of algaecides and phosphate removers into pools with 3ppm FC and 150ppm CYA. They think that the phosphates are the reason that they have green while having available chlorine, when it's really the fact that they dump pounds of trichlor/dichlor into the water and have a CYA level that is paralyzing their sanatizer.
  13. Well, the salt level isn't something you "enter" into the system. The system should be telling you how much salt is in your pool, so if it reads "0" then that would mean you have no salt in the water. However, the salt sensor and cell do not function if the water temperature is below 59F. It's likely that there is nothing wrong with your cell. You just need to wait for the water temp to increase. I used to get calls from people about this all winter. Basically, my advice to anyone with a salt system is don't bother attempting to troubleshoot it until your water temperature raises. (aka Spring)
  14. It will depend entirely on what your rates are locally (for cost) and how quickly you want your pool to heat (for size of heater). Assuming you have a 12k gallon pool (which is what you should have approx based on your size) it would take a 400k BTU heater 2.5 hours to heat your water by 10 degrees. you would then multiply 2.5 hours (usage) by the price of gas for you, which will be measured either in therms (of which you would be using 4per hour) or by cubic foot of gas (which would be 400 cubic feet per hour). This will give you an approximation of you cost. Natural Gas vs Propane doesn't offer a performance difference, just a cost and availability difference. Hope that helps!
  15. A Jandy 3hp relay (part# R0658100) typically retails for 85.25 if you have a 2speed (not variable or single) pump, you will need a 2sp Relay (part# 6796) retails for 55.96 Any pool retailer in your area should have access to them. They are very common. If you are replacing the 3hp relay, you can even use a pentair one (part# 520106). The 2speed relays are unique to the control systems though.
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