styro

Thanks. For quick response. I will defenetly try. The only question will be left about adding also borax before as well and why not What actually borax do?Thanks

Hi, I was using Dichlor/bleach metod for last 2 sessons. A month ago I found cheep liquide chlorine 12% My question will be : what is the advantage of using dichlor /bleach versa only pure chlorine since the price is less then dichlor/bleach metod. Maybe the water will stay more clear for longer period of time........? So I decide to change for luqid chlorine to try. Do I need to build 28ppm of CYA with dichlor or just use straitght chlorine. Thanks

Thanks all for replay and advice. If I decide to closed down for the incoming winter I will try to add to anti freeze extra chlrine (I'm afraid of adding regular liquid javex since the antifreeze will be not anti anymore) So I think I will add egz:(granular Litium) ??? I will post results at the end. For now I will follow Spanky's instractions with Swirl Away. Thanks Adam

Half of the bottle and fill it the spa to the top with water or just couple of galons of water need to be mix ?

how much need to be used for 1200 liters size spa to do proper job?And do you think do I have to use this product after winterizing to clean antifreeze? Thanks

I did winterize the spa first time last winter and the antifreeze fluid was put in.I was advised to just clean with some water and drained before full refil. Maybe thats why it is higher demend of chlorine after this winter maybe antifreeze it is still there. Last night I did soak for about 40 min.the chlorine level before was 3ppm after finish I did input 200ml of virox and this morning after 10hrs the chlorine level was almost 0. Something is not right. Spa system flush is the product sales in USA or Canada?.Since I'm in Canada I will have to find similar product here. It is exact name Spa system Flush I have to look for? Thanks again for all help.

Yes all adds of chemicals same except I've notice amount of chlorine must be double now then previous year. Egzample: last year when I use my spa by one person/per half hrs soak, around 100ml 6% javex and about 50 ml 6% daily if the spa was not in used. Now I have to add double amount same 6% javex 200ml every soak and 100ml without going in. That will last for a day. My water hemistry looks ok. F.ch - 1.45 T.ch - 1.55 TA - 7.7 CA - 60 Water hardness = 120 My spa is 1200 liters the only difference I see is the water hardness I keept at 120ppm instade going to 150ppm like previous years.But I do not think consuptions of chlorine is higher since water hardness is lower. Please advice. Thanks Adam

Thanks for replay,. I did bild 27ppm CYA with dichlor first.I my have to incrise for few more cycles of my ozonator since it is setup for 2 times per day only. My chlorine level is always more then 1ppm. To fix this I did add now bleach to shock it with more then 10 ppm of chlorine. I will see if this will fix my problem for now if not then I do not now what to do next.Do I have to regularly shock my spa and how often.For last 3 years of use I did not shock it and water was always mostly clear. Not much of oils or lotions since it is only me and my wife using the spa all the time and we coming clean. Thanks for all advice. Adam

Hi everyone, I have a problem with my water. Slowly getting less and less clear.(coine of cloudy) I'm on bleach. The water hemistry looks ok. F.ch - 1.45 T.ch - 1.55 TA - 7.7 CA - 60 Water hardness = 120 My spa is 1200 liters The spa is always cover when not in use and not expose to sun. I will apriciate some edvice since this is a second time happen after a new refill 3 weeks ago. Please help. Thanks Adam

Hi everyone, By suggesting this topic I slowly want to learn the process of winterizing the spa. My main question will be if its possible to do that on my own with home tools? I would like to make sure it is 100% Dane properly since the spa is expensive peace of equipment and I do not want to do any damage. From other hand I would like to learn to save the money since each service is around $350. Any input appreciate. Adam

It can sometimes take more than one shock cycle to get rid of some of the nastier and smellier disinfection byproducts. Today after a week of trying to get rid of nasty bacteria, I'm still very far from success. The smell it's almost gone the water is clear, only my numbers are funny. F.ch 2.48 T.ch 3.90 ---------- 1.42 If I open my cover that number will probably decrease to around 1.00 Open the cover and keep it off until you are done shocking or you are just spinning your wheels! The disinfection byproducts need to gas off and they cannot do that with the cover on! Looks like it is not possible for me to go lower then that. I did add first time 80 grams and then after that 3 times(48 hrs space) 30 grams each time of potassium monopersulfate.( should I do add more?) My spa was exposed to sunlight for couple of days. I was also advised by Waterbear to ignore CC readings for 24 hrs. You misread what I posted. Re read my first post. You either want to shock with chlorine with the cover off and keep the tub at shock level with the cover off until the CC reading is less than .5 ppm (and if you have ozone in the water you could get a false CC reading from the ozone so be aware of that, shutting off the ozone for a day or two AND leaving the spa uncovered would tell you. If the CC drops after shutting off the ozone then you know it's causing interference with your testing.) OR you want to do a weekly shock with MPS WITH THE SPA UNCOVERED and just ignore CC readings completely. This usualy works best if started from a fresh fill of the tub. NOWHERE did I say to ignore CC readings for 24 hours. I said that I have seen often seen the interference last for LONGER than 24 hours. My question is: After 24 hours if the bacteria is destroy the readings should be closer to 0.5? High CC levels are not normally caused by bacteria. They are caused by organics (usually from sweat, urine, and feces that each bather adds to the tub, no matter how clean they THINK they are) in the water combining with the chlorine. Can I do my regular tests for f.ch and T.ch after 24Hrs? IF you are shocking with MPS, no. Stop testing for CC and have faith that it is working. Your nose will be the best test in this case. If there is no strong chloramine smell then it's working. FACT: most people can smell chloriamines when they are above .4 ppm. Or as long as the smell it's gone water chemistry is fine....? basically. This numbers between F.ch and T.ch never come back to normal since the potassium is in the water? Sorry for this questions but I would like to have complete clear picture of this problem and know what to do in the future. Thanks Disinfection byproducts are combined chloramines, not bacteria, just in case there is any confusion in this. The following tips are for spas that have a problem with perisistant CC readings and strong chloramine smells. IF you decide to shock with MPS you either ignore the CC readings or get a test kit (Taylor or LaMotte) that can test the MPS levels in the water and/ or remove the interference from MPS. Have faith that the MPS will work and use your nose to determine if it is. If not drain and refill and start over. Keep the spa uncovered the whole time you are shocking and keep the circulation system going. Aeration is part of the process, as is sunlight. If you are shocking with chlorine and have an ozonator turn off the ozone a day before, uncover the spa, and run the jets and blower to gas off any ozone since this can and will test as CC if present in the water. There is not supposed to be residual ozone in the water but in many spas there is. Ozone can destroy chlorine and vice versa so part of your chlorine shock can get 'used up' in destroying the ozone residual and you are not left with enough to burn off the CC. Persistent CC can be hard or impossible to remover. If an extended shock with the cover off and aeration does not work then drain and start over. Be sure to always shock in daytime with the cover off and jets on until the chlorine level returns to normal, usually a few hours, to prevent the buildup of oxidation byproducts (persistant CC) in the water. IF you don't use the spa for a period of time uncover it at least weekly to let it gas off and shock it weekly if you are not keeping daily tabs on the chlorine level. Hope this helps. IF you decide to shock with MPS you either ignore the CC readings or get a test kit (Taylor or LaMotte) that can test the MPS levels in the water and/ or remove the interference from MPS. Have faith that the MPS will work and use your nose to determine if it is. If not drain and refill and start over. Keep the spa uncovered the whole time you are shocking and keep the circulation system going. Aeration is part of the process, as is sunlight. Let say I decide to SHOCK with Mps once a week or by weekly, because of interference from MPS I won't be able to use my regular test from now one for T.ch at all. Since the reading won't be accurate. (CC)Combine.Ch readings = Total.ch - Free.ch ?? I have a picture now. I will use my regular chlorination with virox daily. Once a week Shock with MPS or when I need it. No more testing for T.ch Please correct me if I missed anything. Thank you :D Corrected Text as follow: Let say I decide to SHOCK with Mps once a week or by weekly, because of interference from MPS I won't be able to use my regular test from now one for T.ch at all. Since the reading won't be accurate. (CC)Combine.Ch readings = Total.ch - Free.ch ?? I have a picture now. I will use my regular chlorination with BLEACH daily. Once a week Shock with MPS or when I need it. No more testing for T.ch Please correct me if I missed anything. Thank you

I also have the picture now. Virox is, if I am not mistaken, hydrogen peroxide. This will also test as CC and could be the reason for your problems, particularly in conjunction with ozone. Anyway, it is counterproductive to mix chlorine with peroxide, they destroy each other so you are just wasting chemicals. Why not just try plain chlorine without all the 'extras' (peroxide, MPS, and Ozone). I believe it will solve a lot, if not all, of your problems. Once you learn how to maintain your tub on plain chlorine then try adding the ozone to see if it decreases or increases your chlorine usage. It can have either effect, depending on tub usage. I will use my regular chlorination with virox daily. Should be a "blech" Javex Sorry for mistake

It can sometimes take more than one shock cycle to get rid of some of the nastier and smellier disinfection byproducts. Today after a week of trying to get rid of nasty bacteria, I'm still very far from success. The smell it's almost gone the water is clear, only my numbers are funny. F.ch 2.48 T.ch 3.90 ---------- 1.42 If I open my cover that number will probably decrease to around 1.00 Open the cover and keep it off until you are done shocking or you are just spinning your wheels! The disinfection byproducts need to gas off and they cannot do that with the cover on! Looks like it is not possible for me to go lower then that. I did add first time 80 grams and then after that 3 times(48 hrs space) 30 grams each time of potassium monopersulfate.( should I do add more?) My spa was exposed to sunlight for couple of days. I was also advised by Waterbear to ignore CC readings for 24 hrs. You misread what I posted. Re read my first post. You either want to shock with chlorine with the cover off and keep the tub at shock level with the cover off until the CC reading is less than .5 ppm (and if you have ozone in the water you could get a false CC reading from the ozone so be aware of that, shutting off the ozone for a day or two AND leaving the spa uncovered would tell you. If the CC drops after shutting off the ozone then you know it's causing interference with your testing.) OR you want to do a weekly shock with MPS WITH THE SPA UNCOVERED and just ignore CC readings completely. This usualy works best if started from a fresh fill of the tub. NOWHERE did I say to ignore CC readings for 24 hours. I said that I have seen often seen the interference last for LONGER than 24 hours. My question is: After 24 hours if the bacteria is destroy the readings should be closer to 0.5? High CC levels are not normally caused by bacteria. They are caused by organics (usually from sweat, urine, and feces that each bather adds to the tub, no matter how clean they THINK they are) in the water combining with the chlorine. Can I do my regular tests for f.ch and T.ch after 24Hrs? IF you are shocking with MPS, no. Stop testing for CC and have faith that it is working. Your nose will be the best test in this case. If there is no strong chloramine smell then it's working. FACT: most people can smell chloriamines when they are above .4 ppm. Or as long as the smell it's gone water chemistry is fine....? basically. This numbers between F.ch and T.ch never come back to normal since the potassium is in the water? Sorry for this questions but I would like to have complete clear picture of this problem and know what to do in the future. Thanks Disinfection byproducts are combined chloramines, not bacteria, just in case there is any confusion in this. The following tips are for spas that have a problem with perisistant CC readings and strong chloramine smells. IF you decide to shock with MPS you either ignore the CC readings or get a test kit (Taylor or LaMotte) that can test the MPS levels in the water and/ or remove the interference from MPS. Have faith that the MPS will work and use your nose to determine if it is. If not drain and refill and start over. Keep the spa uncovered the whole time you are shocking and keep the circulation system going. Aeration is part of the process, as is sunlight. If you are shocking with chlorine and have an ozonator turn off the ozone a day before, uncover the spa, and run the jets and blower to gas off any ozone since this can and will test as CC if present in the water. There is not supposed to be residual ozone in the water but in many spas there is. Ozone can destroy chlorine and vice versa so part of your chlorine shock can get 'used up' in destroying the ozone residual and you are not left with enough to burn off the CC. Persistent CC can be hard or impossible to remover. If an extended shock with the cover off and aeration does not work then drain and start over. Be sure to always shock in daytime with the cover off and jets on until the chlorine level returns to normal, usually a few hours, to prevent the buildup of oxidation byproducts (persistant CC) in the water. IF you don't use the spa for a period of time uncover it at least weekly to let it gas off and shock it weekly if you are not keeping daily tabs on the chlorine level. Hope this helps. IF you decide to shock with MPS you either ignore the CC readings or get a test kit (Taylor or LaMotte) that can test the MPS levels in the water and/ or remove the interference from MPS. Have faith that the MPS will work and use your nose to determine if it is. If not drain and refill and start over. Keep the spa uncovered the whole time you are shocking and keep the circulation system going. Aeration is part of the process, as is sunlight. Let say I decide to SHOCK with Mps once a week or by weekly, because of interference from MPS I won't be able to use my regular test from now one for T.ch at all. Since the reading won't be accurate. (CC)Combine.Ch readings = Total.ch - Free.ch ?? I have a picture now. I will use my regular chlorination with virox daily. Once a week Shock with MPS or when I need it. No more testing for T.ch Please correct me if I missed anything. Thank you

It can sometimes take more than one shock cycle to get rid of some of the nastier and smellier disinfection byproducts. Today after a week of trying to get rid of nasty bacteria, I'm still very far from success. The smell it's almost gone the water is clear, only my numbers are funny. F.ch 2.48 T.ch 3.90 ---------- 1.42 If I open my cover that number will probably decrease to around 1.00 Looks like it is not possible for me to go lower then that. I did add first time 80 grams and then after that 3 times(48 hrs space) 30 grams each time of potassium monopersulfate.( should I do add more?) My spa was exposed to sunlight for couple of days. I was also advised by Waterbear to ignore CC readings for 24 hrs. My question is: After 24 hours if the bacteria is destroy the readings should be closer to 0.5? Can I do my regular tests for f.ch and T.ch after 24Hrs? Or as long as the smell it's gone water chemistry is fine....? This numbers between F.ch and T.ch never come back to normal since the potassium is in the water? Sorry for this questions but I would like to have complete clear picture of this problem and know what to do in the future. Thanks

Thanks for all inputs, Waterbear now all is more clear. Quantumchromodynamics my ColorQ pro7 it is very accurate and has no Mps test regents. Ozonator is set to do the work 4x 2hrs/day. Water still had some chloramine smell but not that strong. I guess my problem is also because I'm closing my cover after half an hrs after addition of chemicals. Normal prossegger is addition of chemicals water aeration and cover closed after 10-15 min. How about winter in case of CC High? In my case when the CC is high I should keep my spa open xposed to sunlight for few hrs like Waterbear mention.(no problem is summer) I will try this tomorrow. Thanks Adam