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sooneraia

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  1. Thanks for the reply clown, I went ahead and purchased another and will install today. See if that fixes my problem.
  2. You did it right. So, the 26.33VAC tells you that the "safety chain" has no broken links. About the only thing left is the flame sensor. Did you get to that yet? Not yet, I will get to that right after lunch. Honestly, I wanted to make sure I was testing the TH condition correctly before I pulled the sensor. What am I testing for with the flame sensor? I need to sand it a bit right? Do I need to see if we have 24vac thru that item as well? Just a question, which comes first - the ignitor glow then the flame sensor "senses" the flame and tells the gas it's OK? Or does the flame sensor need to sense something from the ignitor before it (the flame sensor) allows the ignitor to glow. I don't think the flame sensor has the 24VAC control voltage. It works off a resistance value. I think the Fenwal checks the flame sensor beforehand to confirm the abscence of the flame. So, if the flame sensor has crud on it and the Fenwal thinks there is already a flame....why would it initiate another ignition sequence. Obviously, there are ways to fool the Fenwal into thinking that there is no flame, but I'm not sure if the resistance is supposed to be high or low for the abscence of flame condition. Report back your findings after the sanding. OK, I removed the flame sensor, it had what appeared to be a little rusty surface, sanded it. In the midst of getting it out, the wire pulled away from the harness to the actual flame sensor rod. So I removed the coupling, stripped back 1/4" of wire and re-attached it - good as new. Plugged it back in, started the heater and after about 10-15 seconds I heard a "poof", - crap. Shut it down and pulled the hot surface ignitor and on one side where the actual ceramic heating surface attaches to the plastic looking case - it's black (the other side is white) and appears to have blown or shorted. So, I know I will be buying a new HSI. I just hope when I attach the new HSI I don't have it blow like this one did. Kind of strange. Thoughts? If I can get my hands on a new HSI this afternoon I will and give it a whirl. Are you saying that the wires to the glow bar burned off? If the glow bar is bad it will usually have a gap it in. It is also possible that a bug, some crud, or something was on the glow bar as it started to glow and ignited.....I've seen that happen.....but the glow bar will still be good and will continue to glow. I was able to pick up a new HSI (glow bar) this afternoon, so I may try to hook it up this evening. I have just never had that kind of thing happen before. The wires to the glow bar did not burn off, there is no gap in the element, but that one is toast now anyway as I have touched the element anyway. I am just kind of paranoid about hooking up the new HSI (glow bar), hoping it doesn't "short" out. If it does, I will have a whole new set of issues to deal with.................... As always, thanks for assisting me in this adventure.
  3. You did it right. So, the 26.33VAC tells you that the "safety chain" has no broken links. About the only thing left is the flame sensor. Did you get to that yet? Not yet, I will get to that right after lunch. Honestly, I wanted to make sure I was testing the TH condition correctly before I pulled the sensor. What am I testing for with the flame sensor? I need to sand it a bit right? Do I need to see if we have 24vac thru that item as well? Just a question, which comes first - the ignitor glow then the flame sensor "senses" the flame and tells the gas it's OK? Or does the flame sensor need to sense something from the ignitor before it (the flame sensor) allows the ignitor to glow. I don't think the flame sensor has the 24VAC control voltage. It works off a resistance value. I think the Fenwal checks the flame sensor beforehand to confirm the abscence of the flame. So, if the flame sensor has crud on it and the Fenwal thinks there is already a flame....why would it initiate another ignition sequence. Obviously, there are ways to fool the Fenwal into thinking that there is no flame, but I'm not sure if the resistance is supposed to be high or low for the abscence of flame condition. Report back your findings after the sanding. OK, I removed the flame sensor, it had what appeared to be a little rusty surface, sanded it. In the midst of getting it out, the wire pulled away from the harness to the actual flame sensor rod. So I removed the coupling, stripped back 1/4" of wire and re-attached it - good as new. Plugged it back in, started the heater and after about 10-15 seconds I heard a "poof", - crap. Shut it down and pulled the hot surface ignitor and on one side where the actual ceramic heating surface attaches to the plastic looking case - it's black (the other side is white) and appears to have blown or shorted. So, I know I will be buying a new HSI. I just hope when I attach the new HSI I don't have it blow like this one did. Kind of strange. Thoughts? If I can get my hands on a new HSI this afternoon I will and give it a whirl.
  4. You did it right. So, the 26.33VAC tells you that the "safety chain" has no broken links. About the only thing left is the flame sensor. Did you get to that yet? Not yet, I will get to that right after lunch. Honestly, I wanted to make sure I was testing the TH condition correctly before I pulled the sensor. What am I testing for with the flame sensor? I need to sand it a bit right? Do I need to see if we have 24vac thru that item as well? Just a question, which comes first - the ignitor glow then the flame sensor "senses" the flame and tells the gas it's OK? Or does the flame sensor need to sense something from the ignitor before it (the flame sensor) allows the ignitor to glow.
  5. Go with a white liner - makes the pool look like a concrete or gunite pool as opposed to the typical "liner" look.
  6. OK, so here is what I did. I disconnected the TH wire at the Fenwall, started the heater (blower running)and checked voltage. I placed one lead into the end of the TH wire (not at the TH connection on the Fenwall), and the other lead to ground, I came up with an average reading of 26.33 VAC. (I wanted to make sure that I am supposed to test the TH wire that connects to the Fenwall and not the TH connection on the Fenwall).
  7. When you check for 24VAC, you put one lead to ground and use the other lead to check at each of the points in the "saftey chain". The current draw thru this circuit will be very small. If your glow bar voltage is 30V then it doesn't sound like the Fenwal is sending the 120V signal to the glow bar to ignite. You'll have to figure out why. Check Terminal W, see below. Also, what is your Fenwal Model#? Call For Heat 35-65 & 35-66 without Full-time power (r terminal): When a call for heat is received from the thermostat supplying 24 volts to the W terminal, the control will perform a self-check routine, flash the diagnostic LED for a second and begin the safety timing sequence. After an optional "pre-purge" period, the hot surface ignitor is energized for a heat-up period, followed by the gas valve for the "trial for ignition" (TFI) period. Did you find the flame sensor and give it a sanding? OK, here we go. First off, I did not find a Terminal W on my Fenwall. The numbers on it are Catalog #05-332161-103; Teledyne Laars E0180400; there is also a 0230F stamped on it. Regarding the flame sensor, the screw that holds the sensor / plate is trashed (corroded / stripped), so it wil take a little work to get it out. I will continue to work on that. Thanks for the continued efforts. I will try to post a picture of my Fenwall if I can.
  8. I think mine might be bad, it is not glowing upon start-up. Should the voltage at the ignitor be 120? Mine is "rated" for 120, but I tested mine and only had 33 going thru when starting up. It does not have any cracks or breaks. Thoughts.
  9. Thanks for the tips, I will check those out. The "safety circuit" - blower switches and temp (high/low)switches being open, how do you check this? Voltage? I don't see and "re-set" buttons. Do I have to pull the high/low temp switches to inspect them, or is this a "voltage" check thing. Also, a stupid question, when I check some of the components (I am using the trouble shooting guide in a previous thread), when it says to "check for 24VAC", does that mean I need to have 24VAC show up on my meter? Or am I merely testing to see if some current is flowing, not necessarily 24VAC. Don't worry, I won't blow myself up...................... Also, what would the voltage be at the glow bar - 120? I checked mine and it was at 30.
  10. I tried to start the heater this morning. First off, turned it on, the blower began running, I felt the gas meter and put my ear by it - I did not feel or hear the "click". I watched for any glow on the ignitor (glow bar)and saw none. The thing that as different this time was, the blower only ran for 30-45 seconds before it shut down and when it shut down there was no "error message" on the console. Normally (at least yesterday), the blower would run for at least 2-3 minutes (I know it is supposed to try to cycle three times before it shuts down), then shut down and give me the AGS error. So in summary, no glow bar glow, no "click" at the gas valve and I still have not cleaned the flame sensor. Also, I did not detect any hint of gas smell when trying this process. If a safety switch is bad (or needs to be reset), any ideas on which would be the first to look at? Thanks again for all the ideas.
  11. To answer the questions, 1. The glow bar does not glow. 2. I do not thonk I hear the gas valve click. My blower is getting loud now, so the "click" is harder to detect. 3. I have not cleaned the flame sensor. Since the glow bar is not lighting, I did not think the flame sensor would matter (no flame). The thing is, when I start it up, the blower begins, the "HEATING" light does not flash. So it seems like nothing would be "heating", ie. the glow bar. I did look down at the burner area and did not see any glow. I will give them allanother shot tomorrow, but if there is anything else you can think of prior to that, please post. Thanks.
  12. Appreciate the response. I was hoping I would not have to contact Jandy, but might have to. I happen to live in a fairly small town, and we are void of qualified pool heater repair people, as well as parts houses. I would sure like to be fairly confident in my diagnosis before I order any parts. I will keep plugging along on my end and keep those interested informed.
  13. OK. I know there is a lengthy thread on the LX400, and I have read it, very good information, I will print out the trouble shooting guide. My problem though, is a little different, so I thought I would start a new one. (I am new to this board so if in the future the admins would prefer I put my questions with other similar threads I will). My 8 year old LX250 will not fire. Our pool has only been opened a few weeks, and we fired the heater up a couple of times already this year, so this recent problem has me wondering. Simply put, when I turn it on, the fan begins to run (normal), but the "HEATING" light that normally flashes after 30 seconds or so, does not come on. She will run for a couple of minutes, fan continues to blow, then the AGS indicator comes on, she shuts off. We had a storm in between the last firing and this one, lost a tree adjacent to the pool / gas line, so I thought maybe we had diminished pressure. So I loosened my gas line (between the shut off and the heater) and could smell gas, so I assume my pressure is fine (I don't have any testing equipment to determine the pressure). I pulled the gas valve assembly off, shook it out, re-installed it, tried again, and the exact same sequence happened - fan - no "HEATING" flash - shuts off. In other years my main problems were bad HSI's, I replaced those. This one is a little different, hence the request. I know it's a holiday weekend, but if anyone in on-line and can help, it would be much appreciated.
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