Cougar

Thanks! Your input is much appreciated!

It's a water bag cover and the chances of a child falling in are non-existent. Mom does have a cover pump and she has a tendency to run the pump with less than an inch of water on the cover. In fact, I've found the pump plugged in and running when 3/4 of the cover is bone dry. I told her she risks burning up the cover pump trying to keep the cover bone dry continuously. She also has the 'concern' that any leaves left on the cover will "rot and eat a hole in the cover".

Just wondering, just how long would leaves and water need to stay on a winter pool cover in order to do any damage to the cover? This may sound like a strange question but I have an elderly mother who absolutely insists on removing leaves and water practically every day. The water doesn't even cover the entire cover, let alone even an inch deep and the maple leaves are not really that bad.

The spa is sunken into a wood deck. How do I 'feel' around the motojet? Also, what material(s) are used to seal a leak if I am lucky enough to find it?

I need some advice on tracking down (and hopefully repair) a leak in my Hotspring Jetsetter. Of course I pulled the front panel and with flashlight in hand looked at as much as possible but I still could find an obvious leak. The spa is leaking about 2 to 4 inches of water daily. It started out as a very slow leak but it has worsened. The pump and heater works flawlessly. The valves work easily and smoothly. The spa is old. I would guess 10-15 years old. Since I have already 'flashlighted and eyeballed' to to avail, what do I do now? I have already looked at previous posts here on leaking spas and 'it ain't pretty'! Just hoping that perhaps with the more simpler Jetsetter, that leak may be easier to find and replace.

I vote with poollady. Warm/hot lake water with 15 bathers sounds like a recipe for all sorts of nasties. Also, I wonder if the same guests wore the same swimsuits/trunks in a pool later, would they likely infect that swimming pool/spa with algae (if proper washing or disinfecting was ignored?)? Just wondering.

Hey all, long time since last post. Just refilled my HotSprings Jetsetter and could use some good advice (Waterbear, you there ? LOL). I'm using a Taylor K-2005 test kit. The readings; Chlorine = 1.5 Free and total. (yeah, I know I'll need more. Is 1.5 low enough to get an accurate PH reading?) PH = (as best I can see) between 7.6-8.0 (kinda hard for these old eyes to differentiate the color) TA = 60 (too low?) CH = 125 CYA = 35 Water temp = 102F Acrylic Capacity = 225 gallons (?) I question the 225 because I fill the spa to the top of the 'tiles' instead of middle of the 'tiles'. I use 'SpaTime' granulated chlorine, dry acid (Carefree brand), A&H baking soda, and pool (Pooltime brand) calcium as my choice of chemicals. Any advice greatly appreciated!

I just ordered both thermistors at a cost of $16.07 each. I'm hoping their replacement completely solves the problem. In fact, the salesman said he'd almost bet on it. I'll post the results asap. (Sure beats the H out of paying the local spa techie a $100 servicfee (JUST TO SAY HELLO!) and then probably charging $50 an hour labor plus a tremendous markup on the price of the parts and would probably get a big sales pitch for a new unneeded control head or controller box. The salesman at the website I bought the thermistors said STAY AWAY from the dealer if at all possible because you will get *soaked*! (great sense of humor, that guy! LOL!)

Since cooler weather came, I reset the summer/winter switch on my Hot Springs Jetsetter spa to winter. (Thesummer setting would only raise the water temp to 92F). Leaving the spa's cover off the water would only hit about 97F. Still not warm enough! Now, when I do cover the spa overnight, I find the nest morning that the temp is around 112-114F! It makes no difference where I set the digital temperature control, the high heat remains. I lso find that the circuit breaker (in the house braker box) has tripped. Keeping in mind that this spa is Hot Springs Jetsetter (IQ 2000 controller and No-Fault 6000 heater), would this likely be a heater problem? Or thermostat (thermistor)? Or controller problem? I'd really like to solve this problem myself because being on a fixed income makes a visit from our 'semi-local' spa technician very expensive and 'painful'. Any ideas? Thanks in advance! Cougar

what if I don't have access to a shop vac?

The pool IS at operating level. I was unclear as to what the 'winter water level' line. I am still in the dark about what to do about the high copper content and water chemistry for winterizing.. I may be a noob on winterizing a pool but I do know water balance/chemistry must be taken care of first. Also, there is no main drain. Just an in-wall skimmer and three returns.

TA is at 120. Chlorine at 3. I took care of the chem balance before I went on my trip but I've never closed the pool before so consider me a noob. What is 'winter levels'? Is that just below the returns? Or just below the skimmer? Note, the pool is in South Carolina where there are few sub-freezing days. Also, what do I do about that high copper content? Did they do any harm by dumping the whole quart of that blue copper-based algaecide straight into the pool?

I just returned from a trip to China. While I was there my elderly parents decided they would close out their pool. From what they told me, the pool was full of algae. They had dumped a whole quart of the blue copper-based algaecide into the pool without premixing. I'm certain they are going to need a metal cleaner of some sort to get rid of the copper. Can any of you give me some pointers on this high copper problem and winter closing of this pool? It's a 32X16 vinyl /w L-steps (about 21,000 gal).

Don't waste good money on one of those fancy spa dealer spa vacuums that connect to a garden hose or your filter. Get a plastic pint or quart 'sports bottle', push the included straw about 1/4 the way into the bottle. fill the bottle with spa water. Then simply submerge the bottle upside down, squeeze some of the water out and hold the protruding straw over the dirt/grit on the bottom while releasing your squeeze on the bottle. The bottle will suck up the dirt and trap it inside the bottle. Work's every bit as good as a store bought spa vacuum.