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urpoolguru

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  1. Having vinyl covered pool steps that match the rest of the liner offers the most visually appealing option for the pool owner. However the risk of slipping is significantly increased and many pool dealers do not want to build pools featuring covered steps as a result. The pool industry has tried several methods to overcome this issue with mixed results. The textured vinyl undermines the look most homeowners want and it offers little improvement in slip reduction and stains quite readily as there is no clear coat to protect the vinyl like you will find on printed material. The clear coats aids in protecting the vinyl but simultaneously increases the slickness on the material. Sadly there was no practical way to achieve both the look and slip resistance until now. Kayden Manufacturing in Hackensack, NJ recently introduced a spray on epoxy that your Pool Professional can apply directly on the vinyl covered treads of your pool steps. The epoxy has grit mixed into it after applying two coats to the surface of the top two treads you will have the most slip resistant surface available. Ask your pool professional to check it out and quote you on the solution to end your slippery step issues.
  2. The Radiant pool design does have a channel the wall slips into so it is possible provided it was only one or two panels that is out the 2.5". Normally they shoot the base with the transit not the finished wall panel. If it was in the track like it should be and the pool was originally level, then there was settling of the ground which caused the issue. Due to Radiants unique design it is possible to do what the dealer is proposing, and it is not necessarily "patchwork". If it is the panel out of the track simply clearing any debris from the track then resetting the panel properly would be a good solution. If however it is the ground that settled then shimming the framing with concrete blocks and then pouring concrete to fill any remaining voids may solve the issue provided the soil is of the proper density. If it is to low in density then there could be more settling in the future. If it proves to be a soil density matter that would not normally be the fault of the pool builder since it is site specific and could be considered a hidden and naturally occurring issue. While you could argue he should have known based upon experience it could be a matter where the soil below the construction level was not dense enough to support the weight and would not have been exposed or evident during construction. If you have doubts about the contractor and their abilities just contact Radiant directly they are based in Albany NY and can send a rep out to look over the situation if need be. At this point I would give the contractor the benefit of doubt but would want the factory Rep to come out when the dealer comes out to correct the situation.
  3. So long as it is left in the proper state there should be no real issues. The pool should have had a continuous concrete collar poured around the exterior base of the pool walls. Then the pool needs to be properly backfilled to prevent water/snow from accumulating in the over dig ( the 2-3' area around the perimeter). Lastly I would generally want to see gravel put all over the floor of the pool to reduce likelihood of erosion. I know your market area and this is done frequently in fact there is at least one builder in the Toronto area that actually builds steel wall vinyl liner pools all year long, however they wait to do the pool bottoms and liners until the winter is over. If you are in the Toronto market and want a second opinion I would contact Solda Pools, if they are the builder of your pool there is no need to worry at all!! If you want to check with another authority try contacting Kafko Manufacturing in Missasauga (sp?).
  4. Your local pool chemical supplier should have what you need or at least can get it. If my memory serves correct it is sodium thiosulfate (sp?).
  5. Switching the main drain into a return works better than just eliminating it. However if the issue is a broken line then just get rid of it. Ideally add a return or two low on the wall with a down jet eyeball normally used on in floor cleaning systems like a Paramount, Caretaker or similar system.
  6. Steel vs Polymer is a great question! The truth is both will last longer than you will. Currently most steel pools are 14 gauge G-235 steel which will last longer than the steel pools built 30 year ago. My pool is 33 yrs old and is still structurally sound, although there were a few rust spots when I replaced the liner 10 year ago. Polymer pools will never rust but are not quite as strong as steel. In your market my feelings are this...if you are close to the coast and have high water tables polymer might be the best way to go otherwise save the extra$$ and go with the steel pool.
  7. While the water issue needs to address regardless as previously mentioned in an earlier posting when any type of pool is installed. Hydraulic pressure is a serious concern especially when considering concrete or fiberglass pools. Both of these would need hydrostatic relief valves installed in the floor of the pool, these valves open in the event the groundwater pressures exceed the pressure the pool exerts on the surrounding soil. So long as these valves function correctly you will have no worries of the pools structure being compromised. However if they fail to open and close as needed the repairs could be extensive and expensive. If a Vinyl Liner pool is used and no main drains are installed, in the worse case the liner floats. While this would mean the liner will need to be reset or possibly replaced it is far less expensive than repairing a fiberglass or concrete pool should the hydrostatic valves fail to work.
  8. It is the pumps thermal switch which is being activated due to the excessive heat build up. It could be several different but related issues all pertaining to electricity. 1. the pumps windings could be creating to much resistance due to age and fatigue. 2. it could be low voltage 3. it could be inadequate wire size for the size motor 4. the motors bearings are binding slightly causing excessive resistance. I would first test the voltage at the motor and check the wire size. Keep in mind once the thermal switch is kicking in regularly it will become more and more sensitive to tripping. Should you find the cause was wiring related it is likely the motor will need to be replaced too.
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