searcherrr

WOW!!! And you are a moderator? I bet you won't even let this post stand, but I gotta tell ya waterbear you have no idea who you are talking to. I am the document Nazi and what I was hoping for just once was a little shortcut..... to benefit from someone's knowledge on here instead of being dumbed down. LOL - You just have no idea who you are dealing with. I have no problem reading a manual. I do have a problem with arrogance though..... though I'm sure many others will find all this quite entertaining. hehe. Village Idiot huh?

Tested today: CYA - IT says to pour into the special measuring tube until the black dot turns clear. It never turned clear and I stopped at 30ppm, a couple ml from the top of the test tube. Hardness 14 or 140ppm TA 13-14 turned pink (not red) 130-140Ppm CL .5 PH 7.6 This is running the pump 6 hrs a day. I guess I could read the manual (I usually always do), but I seriously doubt it tells me to take apart the unit and clean it. I was hoping there was some easily available liquid solution I could soak the metal in and just rinse it out. I feel pretty confident the white film is inhibiting the chlorine production. Is there another good forum like this that I could get my other questions answered on? I imagine you are very busy and probably don't have the time to discuss all the in's and outs of pool water balance with me. I'm trying to learn though.

I have never used stabilizer, except 1 time in our hot tub, but I was contimplating buying something that might've been a stablizer (Arm and Hammer bucket of tablets) that claimed it would keep the chlorine in the water and keep the alkalinity right, but it was $20 for the bucket and I didn't get it. Last season we didn't put chlorine in manually except once and we let the SWCG and the 2500 gph pump run 6 hours a day at night time and no one ever got green hair, but maybe we didn't swim in it long enough to get green hair? I thought the salt was a natural algaecide too or thats not true? The blueish/white film is also on the silver metal plates at the front of the SWCG beginning flow area as well, but not as much as it is on the copper tuning fork looking electrode. Besides green hair what is the disadvantage of letting the copper electrode do its thing? If its an algaecide why's it bad to have in the water, besides the green hair thing? I will post numbers tomorrow, but if I cant get the white film off the metal i know the pump will continue to run wrong? Any liquid solution that will dissolve whats on there if I cant get it all apart?

Doesn't the copper ionizer also help produce chlorine? If so, how long are you saying for me to have it disconnected till? Well, should I lower my TA or just let it sit a few days and retest with the rest of what that test kit offers too? Anyone know how i can get the electrode and ionizer out of the Intex SWCG I have? I have had it dried out on the kitchen table before and the best I could do was squeeze a brush or something in there to scrub off as much as I could get off only to have it build back up in a short period of time last summer. All last summer we didn't ever use chlorine except maybe on 2 occassions because it seemed as though the SWCG wasn't producing chlorine at all..... but last summer was that big heat wave too, so it could've all been evaporating as fast as it produced it too.

Sorry, i didn't see your post request in time to give you the "fill water" test results, but here it is only a couple days after we poured the water. We are using this exact test kit http://www.archchemicals.com/Fed/HTH/Docs/HTH_6WayTest_Instructions.pdf HTH Part number 904615 Item number 91905 and looks like this: http://www.capitolsupply.com/catalog/pool-thermometers-repair-test-kits-24465/91905-hth-6-test-kit-cs22425.html or this: http://www.midlandhardware.com/HTH--Pool-6-Way-Test-Kit-Performs-Up-To-100-Tests-91905_p_123611.html# I have put in 3.5 40lbs of salt yesterday and today I have put in 1 pouch of HTH shock-n-swim. This is an Intex Easy-Set 18' x 48" pool with the air ring at top. Circular pool with the slanted sides.... for you to figure volume. I think I have figured 3.5 bags of salt being accurate. Chemical tests this afternoon (4 - 6 hours after the shock treatment went in) were: CH 5 BR 10 PH 7.1 - 7.2'ish TA 130 - 140 ppm (This was the first time I've ever in my life tested akalinity, so I following the instructions as seen on the PDF link above.) So, where am I at? Test again tomorrow and begin adjusting water or what? Recommendations for cleaning the copper electrode?? Lastly, and off topic, is there a solution I can soak old paper filters in (the B intex filters) to reuse them once they don't seem to wash out anymore?

Well, I am just now filling up the pool today, so I'm starting fresh from scratch with the same SWG that has/had the blueish (mostly white... like the color of iceberg's at the North Pole) on it. How should I start off? I am putting in 3.5 40lbs of salt and should I shock it too? I will not have good water measurements till probably a week from now. Do the water test solutions go bad if stored outside in a pretty air tight cabinet in the shade? Cause our test solutions are from last year. We use the same test kit for our hot tub too and now I'm wondering due to what we've been going through with the pool, if our hot tub heating element is suffering the same fate as the copper electrode in the pool.

Last pool season towards the end I noticed this and had to stop and take the SWG apart to clean it. At the time this film (what is it by the way?) came off easily, later on it seemed to be more stuck on. How do I get it off? How do I prevent it from building up again? What is it? Is this calcium build up? We are setting up our pool again right now and I'd like this film to not build up on the electrode again this season and of course, I want the water to be balanced. Even though it remained clear last season, this white buildup on the electrode was still happening.