dmorton

You have to make sure the mfd is either the same or higher on the new capacitor.

Had the same problem earlier this summer, i took out the old capacitor and looked up the rating on the sticker. got a new one from grainger for about 12 bucks. it was the same rating but the dimensions were different, it is a little bigger than the old one and was kinda tough to make it fit. After replacing, the pump ran like it always had. I have also had another pump hum, but because there was debris lodged in there. Make sure you de-energize the capacitor before touching the terminals on the top. If you don't, you may get a nice shock. shut the breaker off, remove the plastic cap from the capacitor and touch a screw driver from one of the terminals to the metal body of the pump. This will get rid of any energy stored in the capacitor. Make sure you are only holding the plastic handle of the screw driver. 12$ is better than a couple hundred, definitely worth trying if the motor spins freely. Good luck

Try checking the impeller. had a problem like this a few weeks ago and solved with he help of the guys on here. i was getting air bubbles and had no pressure, i changed out the seals, o-rings. turned out to be a clogged impeller, try to inspect it. good luck

Thanks clown. i didn't see any cracks in the basket. i am also the only one here that takes care of the pool. but i never can tell if someone has been messing with things until there is a catastrophe. the pumps were identical.

just did one of these this week. all one piece, i wouldn't suggest cutting and gluing. i got mine online for 140$ hand tighten only, then you will have to plumb the rest, waste, filter, pump.

You guys are great! been trying to figure this out for over a week. turns out the impeller was 90% blocked, plastic bags, a water bottle cap, dog hair, knots from a log? these were the things that i pulled out of the impeller, it was so jam packed that i couldn't get it all out. i have a dead pump that i have been using parts from to fix my other 3 pumps, so i had an extra impeller. the next question i have is: how did all this debris get past my skimmer baskets, and the strainer basket of my pump? thanks alot for the help!

there are separate pipes for the drain, deep skimmer, and shallow skimmer. i have isolated everything one by one by turning the handle on the 3-way valves. i have run each inlet by itself and still get the same results. the pipe after they combine has been checked and re-checked, i see no leak and hear no air when the pump is on. when the pump is off there is no water leak either, the pump is below the water level of the pool so there is a head pushing on it too.

I have no pressure at my Hayward Pro Grid DE filter. Air bubbles are coming from the pool return in pool mode. Air bubbles are entering the spa in spa mode. I have isolated my skimmers, then i have isolated the pool drain.still no pressure and air bubbles are present in the pool return. then when switch over to spa mode i still get no pressure, and bubbles enter the spa. i have changed out all gaskets in every valve on the inlet side, including the inlet to my hayward northstar pump. i can manually shut off/isolate the skimmers, the pool drain, the spa drain, and the spa return. Still the same outcome. no pressure and bubbles present in the return. The filter has been cleaned and pre-coated, i installed a new multi position valve body with valve seat gasket. the there was work on the pop-up posts for my merlin cover right before the problem started. they had installed a longer pop-up post and i am thinking they might have cracked a pipe coming from the skimmer. please help. I am thinking the next step is a pressure test or a big dig. Please help

Still doesnt answer my question. Are the pump housings the same? just different size motors?

I have a 2 hp northstar. is the pump housing the same on a 1hp northstar the same? id like to swap it out without having to cut and glue anything.

Could the reason this pump quit on me, be that the pump was over sized? It seems we got hosed by the guy who sold and installed the pool, so i wouldn't be surprised if that were the case.

Just checked and found the Tristar to be up there in price too. this pump is only used on sundays, i don't need the high end product such as hayward. I also don't need a direct replacement, plumbing isn't an issue, price is. thanks

I have 4 Hayward Northstar pumps running the pool , the pump that is used the least crapped out after i had the seal and bearing replaced. I have tried everything to get this thing going again. I replaced the capacitor, it still spins freely, ohmed out the hots and got nothing. I now want to replace it with something that isnt going to cost 500-600$ any ideas? this pump is used for 2 lions heads that spit into the pool, in my opinion the pump is way to big and powerful for this purpose, as the water spits almost halfway into the pool. please help!

pool clown you are a genius! there was a bridge from corrosion so small you would need a magnifying glass to see, plus it was in a dark pump house. thanks !!

I have searched for an answer on here to no avail just similar problems. I have a Jandy Aqualink RS i think its an 8, i have a Hayward IDL400 pool heater. my problem was that the heater was coming on and firing when the filter pump turned on, i checked the jandy box witht he sub panel, both the filter pump and the pool heater are tied into the filter pump relay the wires are doubled up, i dont think its to code but dont see a problem there. then i checked the low voltage heater terminals 1&2 on the green terminal bar the heater would turn on when the voltage dropped and turn off when the volts went up to 11.5 or so. then the voltage would hover around 2-3 , and jump to 11 or so. now i get no voltage on 1&2 please help!