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Is a Winterizing kit needed or just a winterizing Ball or aka The Winter Ball ? I had used a winterizing kit for several years but when I open the pool it was nothing but green algae like the lake and takes about 2 weeks of intensive shocking and bleaching to get it to turn clear using algaecide and others. Advise? If use the Winter Ball... do I still need to put like a Floater with 3inch bleach tabets in there and adding more as it is gone like every 2-3 months during the winter or just rely on the Winter Ball alone?

opened pool, shocked and after about a week water test everything within range except Chlorine was a little high at 4. CYA 90, PH at 80-90 Calcium at 230 was within range. Total Alkalinity cannot be detected as instead of becoming pink [using taylor] it became slightly orange. What is going on? Pool meter show salt at 3200. What can I do? Thanks

My TA had to add 17 drops. PH is +7. I have a 21,000 gal inground pool. There seems to be no free chlorine, etc.. in spite of dumping a lot of chlorine, I did stop the pump for 3 days as we went out of town but am back now. All the Green Algae is gone and water is still cloudy but clean.. weather is still cold. The SWG shows a 3000 salt.. Should I add another bad of 40lbs salt. Base on that how much Borax do I need to dump into the pool to get it to show 7.6-7.8, currently it is around 7.0 for PH using the Taylor GFAS-DPD Chlorine kit, Calcium Hardness is around 250 or so.CYA around 6 something. Chlorine and Freee chlorine was fine before we left with arouond 4-5 but now it is all gone inspite of having a Chlorine feeder. What do I need to do to get the chemical balanced.. water is clear at least for now.

Borates help stabilize pH given that other water parameters are at the right levels. . IF your salt is dropping 700 ppm in a week that is suspect of a leak, particularly if you have an autofill. Is your CYA also dropping or staying stable? When you mean leak from the pump or liner? I will check on the CYA seems to be around 80-90s

Pool Chemistry seems to be quite stable but they swing and also there seems to be millions of bubbles in the pool all the time. Water is clear but not sparkly and salt in the pool seems to sway from 4000 to 3300 within a week. You have mentioned that using some borates help to keep water stable. How much do I need for a 23000 gallon pool and do I use miuritic acid at the same time or wait for a few days for the borates to be dissolved? Thanks

I have a hairline crack on my pool skimmer [not the basket] at the sides that is making me lose like some water each time I fill to the line where the crack ends. What pool putty can I use which is best or last the longest. I know there is a lot of different brands. I had it done last year but it came off again. I called someone and was told they have a very special Resin type which they inject into the crack making it last long. Please advise. Thanks... just ordered a few of the Anderson Pool Putty... hope that one works.

Thanks a lot guys... now to find a good brand for Muriatic Acid.. there are so many. Any one that is good. How much do I need to add for a 23,000+ pool. Based on pool Calculator with an average depth of 6ft 18 x 32.... it says as 25,000+ and not 23,000 I wonder if my calculations was wrong... that is why the pool took a while to balance... BTW it takes 25-1/2 fluid ounces of full-strength Muriatic Acid (31.45% Hydrochloric Acid) to lower the Total Alkalinity (TA) by 10 ppm in 10,000 gallons. So I need abouy 51 fluid olunces for my case +-... even though it is about 23-25000 gallons?

Might be a difference in the refraction of the water because of the salt. Once you get everything balanced you should consider adding borates to your water for better pH control and its algaestatic properties but let's concentrate on getting your water balanced and stable first. Have you read the procedure for lowering TA? Yes I have thanks. I read that using powder vs liquid acid both have different advantages. What is the best. Granular Powder [sodium bisulfate] seems to work more slower to lower TA and more stable than liquid like muriatic acid. Considering the heat 92-98 degrees lately and violent rains... I am seriously not sure which works better.

Were you using the same goggles before or are they different? I would suspect the goggles first! Cell Ouput at 40-50% Salt at 3100 now.. dropped 200 within 3 days [there was heavy rain and high heat] No backwashing was done. Googles are very good pro version. Used for scuba diving optical carl zeiss prescription ones No I am not using any regular chlorine or sodium hypochlorite only the SWGS. It is strange when I go into the water... it tasted not too salty but when I put my head into water... the water seems 'wavy' like.. those images you see when being in a desert and the wind blows and u see the heat wave then... similar to that. It is strange at least for me. Anyone knows that? I will monitor your pH and work on lowering the TA to around 70-80 ppm.... Thanks

Currently at: FC 4.5 CC 0.5 PH 7.4 TA 110 Calcium 175 CYA 80 The water seems ok but when using googles underwater it looks quite blur. Googles are new. Any ideas why? I did not had this problem when the pool was using just regular chlorine. This is the first time I have experience this sort of problem/

Now the water chemistry is nearly perfect... not totally but close.... The water is very clear, even sparkles in a way...The stains have mysteriously disappeared quite a lot... I still have some very very light coffee stains on some osides and the bottom. What can I do?. CYA is now at 80's, PH is 7.5, Calcium at 240. Do I use Jack Magic Purple Stuff...as a sequestant or what is actually needed?

As I said before, go to the Pool Calculator website that I have linked to somewhere above, bookmark it, and use it for figuring out your dosing! Pool Chemistry is slowing coming back but still a little off. Just wondering why when I turn off the pump and then turn it back on a few hrs later.. the jets blow some pretty cloudy water with very microscopic air bubbles as well as cloudy water. It is not a lot but clears up like 30-40 mins later. A week or 2 ago I added that instant conditioner. Is that the leftovers? I thought doing all those water lowering and adding of water removed that and changing the sand in the filter? My CYA is now a little high at 100 I believe. Should I just let it run for a few more days before doing anything? Water is no way clearer... strangely the stains are there but less by more than 50+ or 60% now.. still there are some slightly brownish stains. I did not add anything so far till date except the 1 bag of salt... now at 2800+ reading.

Lowered the water a little more than wanted.. filled up with water >> Added 1 bag of salt [40lbs] >>> Salt Level reading at 2700 @ 40-50% output. Should I turn the unit off and just let the pump running as it is and let the salt kinda circulate around for a few hours more?? or do I add another 40lbs bag? Thanks

Do I add 1 40 lbs bag... reading is 2700 now.I think +- about a bag should be ok. lmk. Thanks

Once we get your water balance in line we can tackle your stain problem, right now it is not hurting anything. Use the Pool Calculator to figure out how much salt you need to add (hint: IF your pool really is 23000 gal like you said previously then you need just under 3 40lb bags of salt to bring it up to about 3200 ppm. However, when I calculate a 16x18 rectangular pool with an average depth of 6 feet (4foot to 8 foot) I only get 13000 gallons!!!!! I would put in one bag and see where the salt comes to just in case your pool is a bit smaller than you think. You will probably need around 1 1/2 bags in all if your pool is 13000 gallons) Should I add Salt like 10 lbs out of that 40lbs bag or anything? You need to start using the pool calculator so you know how much you need to put in. The test kit tells you what you need, and when you need it, the pool calculator will tell you how much you need. They are your pool's best friends! Thanks Waterbear and everyone else. I thought CYA was supposed to be between 30-60 and 80 was high... my bad if it was incorrect. 30-50ppm is the recommended range for manually chlorinated pools unless you are in a tropical or arrid area and the pool gets a LOT of sun. Then a slightly higher level is advantageous. However, salt pools generally work best at higher CYA levels for several reason that are a bit technical so I am not going into them here but the end result is better pH stability, less acid needed, and longer cell life. Does anyone know if Jack Magic's Purple Stuff can remove the brownish stain/ tea stain type on all sides and bottom of the Vinyl pool? GET YOUR WATER BALANCED BEFORE WORRYING ABOUT THE STAINS! GET YOUR WATER BALANCED BEFORE WORRYING ABOUT THE STAINS! GET YOUR WATER BALANCED BEFORE WORRYING ABOUT THE STAINS! We will tackle the stains later. They are most likely iron but until you get your water balanced they are NOT important. Get your CYA, Salt, and FC in line. Go ahead and drop you pH to 7.0 (BUT NOT ANY LOWER!). It will climb up on it's own in a few days to a week but will start to bring your TA down. When it climb up to 7.6 test your TA and if still too hgh lower the pH to 7.0 again (the acid demand test and the chart in the back of your booklet that came with your test kit will tell you how much acid you need...measure it out and don't 'guestimate'!) It will also help remove some of the stains for now but they might come back as the pH rises. Work on this for right now and we will take the next step once your salt, CYA, and FC is in line. It is 16 x 32ft. Avg of 6 ft. I guess I am going to be out of balance again... I will probably try to get some salt in later on.. I guess this year has been a lot of mistakes here and there../... I am getting there. For CYA I am a little unsure. Do I add it till the BLACK DOT being covered by the cloudy water which means I cannot see any outlines or must the outlines also be totally Gone?? The Combine Chlorine... when adding the Drops it becomes only very very slightly reddish/ pink. Is that correct? Then ...I would add another different drop to make it colorless again... I know these are very small factors but just want to make sure I did it right. Is that the right way for Combine chlorine? How do I read the circular blue chart that came with the kit?