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AFiremanFirst

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  1. what waterbear is saying is that chlorine is chlorine is chlorine, aka bleach, non are longer lasting than others. Liquid adds salt, not really a major concern. Cal-hypo adds calcium, which could be desireable or undesireable depending on your calcium level and CSI. Tabs are adding CYA which in your case is undesireable, although I'm okay with 100 CYA but not much more. Your FC should be 5% of your CYA
  2. I think we're all saying the same thing. Pressure drop is usually due to air in the system. The first valve (commonly jandy, the one that switches pool from spa) leaks in air, on the stem shaft. In pool mode its not as obvious, in spa mode it's clear. You'll know because your pump basket will fill with bubbles and your spa jets will blow bubbles (small ones). It could also be the "nipple" or threaded pipe into the front of the pump. I'm of course assuming your psi drop is being read on your filter gauge. I don't see many vaccuum gauges on the pumps in my region, but could see where that might be your reading as well.... One last option, check your drain plugs on the pump (although not likely), there should be 2, 1 on the pump, and one on the pump basket.
  3. It's important we know about your decision. Where are you building your pool (part of the country/world). And is it indoors or out? Sounds crazy but in texas... You'd much rather heat your pool with gas than electricity!
  4. So my wholesaler is offering liquid chlorine. Great I thought. No side affects (except salt of course). Now I'm crunching the numbers and I'm not so excited. Help refresh my memory. I'm thinking Cal-hypo adds 0.7 ppm of calcium for every ppm of cl... is this right? My question is... how much CYA is add with each ppm of cl with Trichlor tabs. Of course I will do what is best for each pool, but too, offering the best service at the lowest price is just good business.
  5. Bug man, It's not being stolen post GFCI. The neutral was coming from the line side of the GFCI not the load, or yes, it would have tripped. However your point does make sense about 1/2 the house being wired on 1 leg and 1/2 on the other. I am glad to see that I'm not crazy and this is more common than I thought. But like scott, I just feel better about it being done "right". There is already a hot 110v, and a Neutral. Run both, then 2 legs for 220, and a ground.
  6. I'm perplexed. You've said you cleaned your grids. And you've said your filter pressure is higher than normal. Oils is about the only thing I can come up with. Disassemble your grids again and soak them over night with a box of the cheapest dishwashing powder you can find and full trash can of water. Do you have a scum line in the pool? Black ring inside the skimmer? Pool perfect has enzymes which will do almost the same thing, but follow the directions. Enzymes are sensitive to temperature and chlorine levels.
  7. Let me try and help diffuse the tension. "We" the pool professionals on this forum offer our advice for free. We are not compensated nor rewarded and seldom thanked for our free experienced advice. "We" also take very seriously our expertise in our field and have often times learned lessons the hard way. "We" seldom will encourage a bandaid for a repair because we believe in doing what we do the right way. It is my opinion that Scott is encouraging you to find the problem not the solution. I will too! If you want a bandaid for your cracks in your plaster pool (because it is a plaster pool despite it's "finish" diamond brite, pebble tech, etc.) then please google band aid for my plaster pool. If you want a professionals free opinion then you have found that! Scott has not suggested you sound the alarms and replaster the pool. He (and I support) has suggested you have a few test run. With that said? Don't fix what isn't broken. Determine if the cracks are leaking before looking for a solution. If you have to fill the pool to run a dye test, then fill the pool and run the dye test.
  8. I agree, but if in doubt. Fill a bucket of water FULL and put it next to the pool. They should evaporate evenly. Also you can watch your chemicals. Calcium should not drop! or CYA or Salt. Calcium though is IMHO the easiest for you to follow closely!
  9. OH NO!!! The four bolts you removed will not let the motor free!!! You must remove the 6 bolts (2 have nuts and washers). The motor will then come off with the seal plate. You'll then need a small allen wrench to remove the diffuser, then a phillips head screw driver to remove the LEFT HAND threaded screw in the middle of the impeller. Then a 1/2" box end wrench to hold the back of the motor shaft (not a pair of vice grips... You wouldn't want anyone to think badly of you ;-) while you unscrew the impeller (right handed threads), now, and only now can you replace your motor. I am a bearing replacer. But not on that motor. The square flange makes it all but impossible to disassemble properly. Pentair flawed the design and the bottom 2 holes in the flange are likely broken or badly coroded any how.
  10. So I recently had a Super II go out. No big deal right? So I go to make the repair, and the power center is not the typical nice neat orderly electrical installation I'm used to seeing (17 wire nuts, are you tracking with me...). As I'm removing all the birds nest of wire and "doing it right" I see that the installer has stolen a leg of 220v from one of the line sides of a relay (power for the control board/transformer) and tied the neutral back to the line side of a GFCI. Naturally I run a hot and a neutral from (not through) the GFCI to the transformer and resolve the short cut the installer took to save 20" of copper. Naturally I thought to myself... Lazy installer. (different pool) Two days later while tracking down a broken leg of 220v I notice that intermatics wiring diagram has the very same "theory" to wire a 125v time clock on a 220v system, just take a leg from the line of 220v and run the neutral back to 110v. Of course you're going to ask which intermatic, and I'll get you that info, but this simply doesn't seem like a good practice? I have purchased a 220v time clock to replace the 125v clock and intend to wire it properly. Isn't it true that if you steal a leg from 220v, then the load on that 220 system is unequal. And couldn't this difference, even though small, cause problems in the long run. So what is my question... Did I overkill by correcting the problem or is this a common/acceptable way of wiring 110 when 220 is present? Anyone have experience with seeing it done one way or the other.
  11. And I agree. Nice though that in the desert it cools off at night, in my region we are not so lucky! Update... I check with the guys maintaining commercial pools in my area. 100ppm is common (regulated by each city differently).
  12. Yards are nightmares too. If you bought a 1976 car, it would be tempermental, and require some TLC. So will your pool. But seriously... You've come to the right place. Our opinions are strong. We treat each others opinion with respect. Our advice is free, and we genuinely are here to help you because we love our industry! First things first. It is in your very best interest to buy a Taylor K-2006 test kit and become familar with how to test your water... We'll help you with your results, but without results, we can do little to help you. No, I don't work for Taylor, nor sell their products, and I don't believe any of us who push the tester do, it's simply the most user friendly and accurate testing you can get. Yes, your pool store will test your water... And your values will likely change before getting there, and you are less likely to have it tested than to test it yourself. Help us help you!!! Yes you can convert it to salt, easily??? $2500-$3000 will get you there (in my area North D/FW). I'm hopeful someone with more experience with a liner pool will post (they will, be patient). Liner pools are not my expertise. Remember, a salt pool is still chlorinated, it's just made rather than added. You can put salt in your pool, add your chlorine and get the same desired affect. lighting Again, because it's a liner... I don't have a good suggestion. I have lights in my pool. We have a long swim season!!! My lights impress my neighbors when we have a few drinks on the back porch. But we seldom swim after dark. A slide maybe a better investment, your kids will love it! Solar heating is an option. A solar blanket can make as much as 7 degrees difference from that without. It reduces evaporation but also hides your pool, you think it's clean when it may be dirty, and they can be dangerous. You wouldn't want to jump off into the middle of a solar blanket, however, all pools can be dangerous. With a little caution around the pool and a little pride in your pool a solar blanket I think will give you the satisfaction you're looking for at a reasonable price.
  13. yes you're right pool clown, he did say just the one valve (I didn't think that one through) thank you for the clarification although.
  14. a failed shaft seal eventually leads to a bad front bearing! I encourage you to get a pool repair guy to look at your problem!
  15. I suspect you have a spa side switch too? This can be enable or disabled from the control inside. The switch could be giving you problems when its wet or stepped on by a animal... Help me out pool clown... Am I thinking correctly that the spa could be activated by the spa side switch? Also, it's a good idea to take the cover of the valve actuator and make certain it's in good condition. There's two small switches that are activated by to small "nubs" on two collars, these are adjustable and sometimes they become brittle and break causing erratic things to happen (ie the actuator spins 360 degrees rather than 180 or any other combination you can imagine.
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