Iron, Copper Or What?

[marydc]

Hi,

Have learned so much that we've done wrong on our swim spa water balancing act since finding this fantastic forum with great moderators.

We have a swim/spa that started out with great clear blue water. The swim spa had a few issues that needed the pool company to come out and troubleshoot. We live in the mountains and have our own well which we know to be high in iron. We have 2 faucets to use for outdoor water, and unfortunately the pool company chose the wrong faucet to add more water to the spa. We have a highly filtered water faucet we use for these type of things (carbon + something that removes iron?). Immediately we had brown water in the spa, and eventually because we didn't know the swim and spa were still connected with the valves, the pool water turned green the spa remained a light brown. We use Bromine in our swim spa and have an ozonator for sanitation.

We were told the water must have algae even though it immediately turned colors with the new water addition and within days of the new swim/spa. So we began shocking the water, addiing more Bromine and basically bumbling along because we were told adding any other chemicals would ruin the ozonator.

We bought a tester (no not the Taylor brand, the TruTest digital), and had a variety of readings. What we seemed to understand is that the ph had to be right to adequately use anything we added to the water, otherwise it was wasted treatments. Eventually after weeks we gave up and bought some algaecide, ph increaser, ph decrease and something for the alkalinity. With the ph in range (not that you'd believe it with the digital tester after reading the posts), when we added the algaecide, there was an immediate deposition of rust colored staining above the water line of the pool and spa, and then massive pouring out of the same colored slime like substance that floated on the water. I had the bright idea it was brown algae.

This process of good ph and algaecide actually cleared the spa to blue again, but not the pool, it seemed to get darker green, but clear except for every time we added something trying to correct the ph. I was nervous adding the algaecide, so the total amount was put in over time, and again, with every addition, the same result. Eventually the water turned cloudy and we finally just drained the swim portion. It was then we realized there was a connection to the spa water, because the spa water dropped with the pool water. So we closed off the valve. We cleaned the filter that also had rust colored staining, that mainly rinsed out, but left some behind.

Sorry this is so long.

So we refilled the pool, beautiful crystal clear with a tint of blue. And then we started correcting the ph again, and within minutes watched our beautiful light blue turn to light-medium green, Also the brown/rust colored gunk was back along the sides, and floating in the water in lesser quantities, but still there. Now we had another problem- FOAM we could have taken a bubble bath.

We still added algaecide thinking it must be algae from in the pipes. The spa stayed blue but also had the rust coating and slight slime.

Now the pool has tamed down to mainly blue, but there is a ring around the pool and swim spa.

Our tests have mainly been in range, slightly above and below the normal ph range, the chorine level is very high and coming down, which I attribute to Bromine reserve and bleach.

So after that long explanation.. is it iron, copper or ? on the edges, and floating when we turn the blower on. It's getting less and less, but still there.

We've been wiping, netting the foam with the brown tinge etc, but before I go into the spa or pool I'd like to know what's up. Now that the pool is blue again, very little foam if any. The spa still is quite foamy and is now approaching the right ph.

I'll try the vit C tablet to see if I get anything, but in the meantime-any expert ideas?

thanks in advance for your help.

Oh, yes I'm going to order the Taylor kit.

marydc

[syed20]

We still added algaecide thinking it must be algae from in the pipes. The spa stayed blue but also had the rust coating and slight slime.

[MoroccanBath Addict]

Appreciate your share.

[Dan The Spa Man]

You touched on several things. I'll try to hit some of your points.

pH and alkalinity are vital to how well your sanitizers work. If close to ideal, elimiation of green water is much easier. However, if the pH and/or alkalinity is way off then sanitizers will not work nearly as effectively as they should.

Algecides can cause foaming. This is typically the case with copper-based algecides (that typically have 50% active ingredients). I would venture to say that the foaming was caused your algacide.

Algaes can have all sorts of colors and will need to be correctly identified. What you spoke of may have been a metal deposit (Copper/Iron). To correctly identify if a stain is a metal deposit place citric acid (vitamin C tablet, an orange/lemon/lime wedge, etc) on the stain. Citric acid will dissolve most/all metal deposits, usually instantly. This is vital as eliminating metal deposits requires a metal remover/sequestering agent, whereas algae stains require shocks/algacides/elevated sanitizer levels. Both work best when pH and alkalinities are balanced, but require two completely diffent solutions. Additionally, when removing a metal stain most sequestering agents and stain removers prefer lower sanitizer levels. Thus- identifying a stain correctly is vital.

Finally- Sometimes you may have both algae and metal stains. You may have to address one first, then wait an re-balance your water to correct the second issue. I have noticed that when adjusting pH/alkalinity the green tint may be decreased just by reaching ideal levels. Oddly enough- I've also seen clear water that is tremendously out of balance and once the pH/alkalinity is balanced the water turns green. That might be due to the conditions for algae growth being adjusted to a more favorable water chemistry for the alage to flourish.

In all- Water chemistry is tricky. The best bet is to test your water 2-3 times/week and stay atop of your chemicals. Every 2-4 weeks have your water analyzed by a professional. This will help ensure optimal conditions for your pool/spa.

Good Luck moving forward.