JFS

have 2yr old pump i was using to drain my elevated spa. i accidentally left pump on to long it ran about 8 min just sucking air it was making "VERY LOUD WHINING SOUND" i primed the pump and in about ten min the whining gradually dissapeared what caused whining sound? did it fix itself or have I done some permanent damage Thanks JOE

So it sounds like you want to go the "spend more money on algaecides, phosphate removers, etc." route which is of course your choice. Your regular draining combined with other water dilution from winter rains and/or backwashing probably kept your CYA somewhat in check in the past. Obviously, that approach failed to work when you got yellow/mustard algae into your pool since maintaining only 2 ppm FC means you risk algae growth if the CYA gets much above 30 ppm (for worst-case algae nutrient levels). As for your neighbors' pools, they may be naturally low in algae nutrients or they may be using algaecide products. If you want, you can buy an expensive phosphate remover product to try and lower that algae nutrient and hope that this will be enough to starve out the algae. If you have organic phosphates in your pool, then such phosphate removers won't get rid of them and algae can still use them to grow, albeit more slowly (if you used some phosphate-based metal treatment products, that could be a source of that nutrient in your pool once such products broke down). Or you can use algaecide regularly such as PolyQuat 60 weekly. Or you can risk staining in your pool by using a copper-based algaecide (it's very effective, but risks staining). Or you can use No Mor Problems which will turn your pool into a bromine pool. With No Mor Problems, you still add chlorine as you did before (so yes, right after use), but the chlorine will oxidize bromide to bromine and the chlorine will turn to chloride salt. So you will essentially have a bromine pool and there is no easy way to go back to a chlorine pool if you decide to change (you'd have to remove most of the bromide from the pool through large-scale water replacement). You still add chlorine to the pool, but since it will turn into bromine you will have the pros and cons of a bromine pool. The pro is that it will not bind to CYA so will remain at full-strength. The con is that it can break down faster in sunlight than chlorine so you may find that your daily chlorine demand goes up along with associated chlorine costs (not to mention the cost of No Mor Problems). Not everyone finds that to occur, so you could get lucky. The rest of your chemistry levels should be kept as usual -- pH, TA, CH. You probably still want CYA in the water so that it will at least somewhat protect lower depths from bromine breakdown from the UV in sunlight. Another approach would be to add 50 ppm Borates to your pool as they are a mild algaecide and might be enough to give you an edge over algae at your FC/CYA levels. Had no idea No Mor Problems had such a lasting effect, will avoid using.I have been using Poly 60 religiously, per insruction, for last 4mo. In my opinion as a preventitive and algae killer it sucks. As you know, high CYA is innevitable with tabs, so after 25yrs, I guess i will change to bleach.I can't help feeling that behind this relatively new science, there isn't a scam to sell more chems and test kits. Thanks for your response-Joe

I am a reg on the forum and anticipated your respone. My frustration lies in the fact for 25yrs I maintained my own pool, with a simple test kit,target CC 2, PH 7.6, draining 3/4 every 3 yrs. I never experienced cloudy or smelly water and rarely had algae prob.Now I add baking soda weekly and have to drain 1/2 pool every 6mo to keep CYA in line.My neighbors all have pool services using tabs, the illegals cleaning their pools have no clue about chem, they don't remember last time pool drained and guess what, no algae. I still need to know what to expect on my chem levels as a result of using No Mor Problems,and should I begin adding clor immediately after its use. Thanks-Joe

Have had continuing yellow algae prob for last 4 months.Plater/Gunnite 18K pool.Taylor test kit says water fine confirmed by two diff pool stores. CYA high(90), TA high(100), I use tabs.I started using Poly 60, as directed, about same time prob started. I admit it doesn't effect other chem levels, but neither does it seem to effect algae, neither as a preventitive or a killer. I am considering using "No Mor Problems" which I have used in past, with succes.Can anyone tell me what effect this will have on my other chem levels, FC, PH, etc.. I have noticed it completely depleted FC in past. Do I begin adding Clorine shortly after "No Mor Problems" in order to bring to appropriate levels? Thanks-Joe

Have been having reoccuring yellow algae prob for a number of months now.Brush it off, back in a couple of days, same areas.Drained half pool four mo ago becuse of high phosphates and high calcium,.Treated pool with Phosphate remover and other chems to bring to acceptable level, also started using poly 60 weekly and accord to directions.Algae prob slill exist. 17K gunnite/plaster-solar 85 degrees plus-25yrs old-new plaster 7 yrs ago-shock with bleach- Taylor 2006 test kit TA 100 CH 410 FC 4 (normally 5-6) CC 0 CYA 90 Any suggestions? Thanks-Joe

Why is it they reccomend much higher TA, when using tabs? Thanks-Joe

Have 18K plaster pool that I have mantained 25 yrs. I have recently been having problem with yellow algae.Drained 3/4 water couple months ago because of high calcium, also have solar so I keep temp at 85. FC 7.0 CC 0 TA 85 CYA 60 CH 290 PH 7.6 I use tabs, periodicaly use poly60. I have never had this much algae and need some advise on what I am doing wrong.I also wonder if it is normal to have to add 2-4lbs baking soda per week. Thanks-Joe

concrete/gunnite all the same animal.Diff is in size of aggregate. cement content, admixtures and how it is applied.Starting and stopping application will result in a cold joint, which may or may not be a problem depending on where it is. It is very difficult to beleive gunnite contractor isnt aware of this. Good Luck-Joe

May have solved own prob. Found article saying old Polaris 180 floats were made of material that after long period of time absorbed water causing line to sink to bottom, also hose would become very brittle with time.I also found site with best prices, POOLCENTER.COM. They also have online chat which was immediate, knowlegeable and very helpfull. Will report if this doesnt solve my prob or if POOLCENTER.COM isnt what it appears to be.-Joe

I have a Polaris 180 sweep which I have had for 25 yrs and am pretty good at troubleshooting it. Lately it has been tieing itself in knotts.I have noticed the hose from wall to unit seems to be laying close to bottom rather than top of the water. Does the hose or floats eventually go bad? I did replace pump about month ago, do not know if this is related. Any comments or suggestions appreciated. Also, where is the best place to order Polaris parts Thanks-Joe

Right on the money, drive jet plugged.I love forums like these. They have saved me a lot of money and time. Thanks Again-Joe

Have 25 yr old Polaris 180.Water began flowing at full force out of sweep hose, drenching my whole house.Checked adjustment screw it appears OK and even tightening with wrench will not stop flow.Otherwise it seems to be working OK.This is new one for me and I hane been servicing this thig myself for 25 yrs. Any ideas-Joe

I had a crack in my spa and went with epoxy injection to try and save money, it didnt work and the contractor warned me it might not. The most important thing is to find out why it cracked in the first place.Maybe something like a liner might be most economical way to go.-Joe

Just drained 17K plaster/gunnite pool in SoCal because of high calcium hardness (620). Intended to drain 75% but fell asleep at the switch and drained it almost completely.Taylor test kit shows no measurable CYA. I use tri tabs and I am supplementing with liquid to keep chlor levels up. Should I add some stabilizer, if so how much,or do I just wait till tabs build up enough conditioner in the water. My PH 7.6, TA 100, FC 3. Thanks-Joe

I have some dichlor shock, should I throw a bag of that in and or some liquid chlor?