stevenz1g

Oooh, yes - I forgot on some of those models there's a spare high limit/link under or near the exhaust vent.. I got stumped one time by this well. Right now it's sounding like a board or that sensor, but I can't be there to diagnose it with you and am only working on the information you'requested giving me so take that with a grain of salt Your ignitor sounds good.

OK you've told me the ignitor has power going through it but not out of it.. that makes no sense. If it's sending it the 120v/240 but not igniting, then you have a bad ignitor... which I covered by telling you to test the resistance of it. Put your leads on the two wires from the ignitor with the power to the heater off, and you should be getting 30-50 ohms. This number varies between manufacturers, but if you'received getting an open circuit - boom, you found the issue. Or take the two nuts holding the ignitor in off, put some gloves on, and ensure the heater has a call for heat.. if the ICM is truly sending it voltage, it will begin to look cherry red from the extreme heat it is generating. Turn it off quickly before it gets too hot. I don't like jandy heaters personally, so that's why I don't bother to memorize the fine details with them.

So as long as your safety circuit is completing and it's sending 24v to the ignition control module, it should be trying to heat. I'd also test the resistance of your hot surface ignitor, and if it is sending 24v up to the ICM (ignition control module), when you tell it to heat it should also be opening up the gas valve on one leg for flame rectification. ICM's USUALLY do not go bad in two years, so my gut would be to point towards the power control interface board (big board all safety sensors go back to) or the HSI being bad. IF the hot surface ignitor is in fact bad already, there may be a chance your air to fuel ratio is too lean and it's burning hotter than it should. This would be tested with a manometer on the gas valve. I'm on a phone and wold give you exact points to test voltage for, but I'm lazy and that'll have to wait til later tonight lol

Does it have a fusible link/rollout sensor? Either the ignition control is bad, ignitor, or something in the safety circuit is telling it to not heat. If your fusible link is bad, it either prematurely failed or it'a time to clean out your heat exchanger.

Call the pool company and ask if either they handle renovations, or they are aware of a reputable contractor that will. If you were to call my company, we'd politely point you elsewhere. It all depends if they're equipped or not

Sounds like you may have an air leak in front of the pump that is only exaggerated under serious amounts of vacuum? Do you have any valves that are only diverting all the suction to wherever you're plugging in the creepy crawly?

Although an AGS sensor is a cheap fix, it's weird that the hi-limit isn't also popping, as they're usually within a couple degrees within each other. Simply put, the AGS sensor simply tells the gas valve to shut because water temperature leaving header is too high... which could mean a slew of things (flow, heat exchanger, bad sensor, bad pc board, bypass inside header bad?) If you're mechanically inclined in the least sense, put a multimeter on the sensor and see if it's always bad, opens early, or is in fact opening as it should be. Compare with your hi limit sensor. If you've had a good history with your tech, and judging by these other commentors, it may be time for that new heater.

Take some pictures and report back and I will try my best. Unfortunately, though - in situations where most plumbing is permanent, your options may be limited.

Essentially what spa guru said ^. Most autofills will have a drain port near the top of the casing to prevent serious overflows going into yard and what. Are you 120% positive that the pool is the only thing routed to your street drain? Do some inspections... go to your autofill and see if you hear any water bypassing an o-ring it shouldn't be. Shut the fill line OFF to your autofill for a week or so and see if that alleviates the problem.

So... Hate to say this, but I would know how to diagnose and fix this being there;however, it seems that either you have a bad temp sensor or "universal control interface board". Easy way to test temp sensor would be check it's resistance with a multimeter. Depending on what type of sensor, you should find a chart comparing appropriate resistance values vs temp. Obviously it's not 243 degrees. P/N of sensor - R0456500. Second issue sounds like either a bad ICM or flame sensor. Yours has a hot surface igniter combined with a temp sensor. The ICM is sending the igniter 120v as noted by your visual inspection of an orange glow. What I suspect is happening: If the safety circuit is somehow closing with your bad temp sensor, it sends 120v to igniter for a couple seconds then switches to reading resistance of the temp sensor. MOST ICMs will feature a three-try lockout with 30-60 igniting intervals. After three times of "not sensing flame", it will display ignition fault. Again, I could list a lot of stuff but without being in front of it... yeah If you've had three pool professionals couldn't fix your heater, I need to be in your market - I'd make a killing.

If your power LED green is indicating on, then "most likely" you're receiving the proper voltage necessary as wired and as being transformed(either 120v or 240v -> 24v). At either rate, I'd check your wiring for the incoming power. If you have 120v, make sure the hot is tied with the "yellow and black" and the neutral tied with "blue or violet" & "white". If 240v, it will be hot with "yellow", the other hot "white" and the extra "blue/violet" and "black" tied together. After ensuring proper voltage and making sure fuse(s) are working properly, test the outbound side of the transformer by placing your voltage tester leads where you connect the chlorine generator (without actually plugging in. Imagine you looking up, from the bottom, at the unit. You'll see four little holes. Place the leads in two opposing holes and check for voltage. I can't remember which holes they are, but two of them will be sending 24v DIRECT CURRENT if transformer is working properly and fuse is working great. If you don't get 24v, then your power center is bad and needs replacing. If you are getting 24v, then you need to replace cell and/or send in for warranty.

If you can't afford a variable speed pump and your current wet end is in good condition, why not just go with a two speed pump?

Sounds like a faulty igniter. After the ignition sequence it turns into a flame sensor. It's going into lockout mode because now, most likely, when it sends the ignitor 120v, it's not getting to the proper temperature to ignite so then it purges all the propane mixed air and tries again. If the ignitor is faulty, you'll most likely smell propane venting from the blower during the ignition sequence, correct? Do you hear the gas valve click when the valve turns on? Have to give us a little more information Do you own a multimeter that can test for resistance? These heaters are *pretty* simple, so I can't see why multiple pool people wouldn't be able to service it.

It is pretty DIY. The main reason pool tile guys get paid to do what they do, is simply because they're willing to do it all day long lol. Message me if you're interested, and I'll recount how I was instructed to re-do tile jobs

Have you checked how many amps it's pulling with a voltage tester equipped with an amp clamp?