topmahof

most tubs nowadays that you can change the voltage on need to have the pumps changed also. it could be that you might need a 220 volt pump to run the tub on 220. why don't you wire the tub back to 110v and just make sure that everything is still working. if it's not, then you might have cooked something.

schedule 40 unions from a plumbers supply house.

Looks like you hit it right on the head, Hilbilly! 2" PVC flex-pipe comes off jet pump to a wye and branches off to both ends of the spa; there's a triangular flap (intersecting splits) about 1-1/2" long about an inch before the wye, right at the lowest point in the whole system... water just a-pourin out once the foam went. Also found twin pin-stream leaks at another low point of the hose off the wye that goes to the far end of the spa. Also on that same hose, and this one doesn't fit the pattern of a poor winter-prep freeze-up, the foam under the rail is wet right at the diverter valve. Still unable to determine exactly where, but I'm still pickin' out the foam. Looks like maybe an incomplete glue-up from new. Which flows nicely into the next question... how exactly does one go about replacing mid-run components when everything's glued in? It's like working with pipe, only worse, cause at least with pipe you can start at one end and start disassembling up to the repair, whereas with this stuff, it's all glued up into one big piece! Hacksaw segments out and use splice fittings to patch-in the repair? The voice of experience would be comforting right about now.

make sure the circ pump is actually running. does the tstat click when you turn it up. does it click when you turn it back. make sure the filters are clean. if the circ pump is actually running you should see bubbles coming up from the the little jet at the bottom of the tub. if the circ pump is running and the tstat is clicking, follow the lead from the pressure switch to where it connects to the upper right side of the board enclosure. the pressure switch is screwed into the black heater box. see if you can jumper the leads of the pressure switch closed. then check for power at the heater again. if you now have power then you have a bad pressure switch. or junk in the end of the pump. or clogged filters. or junk under the filters, leaves and such. i pulled barney the dinosaur out of the end of a 6 hp pump once. it doesn't take much to clog a circ pump. or lower the flow enough to open the flow switch.

nope, as long as you just unscrew the inner part with the 3 spokes. the outer ring with the 3 slots is mounted to the tub. the wide part of the jet tool fits on that to replace the jet body which you don't need to do. the smaller end of the jet tool fits over the three spokes and over the nubs on the straight jet. another thing, those jets have to be screwed in pretty tite for air to flow into them. you probably have some calcium built up on the threads so it might be pretty hard for them to unscrew. if you put the shop vac on those jets with water in the tub all you're going to suck is water.

http://www.shop.hottubparts.com/Jet-Wrenches_c29.htm cut and paste the link above and scroll down to part #2181770 and that is the tool that you need to unscrew those jets. they are called poly jets and the one on the bottom has a rubber gasket on the back of it that is probably no longer there. those jets won't let any air into them at all if that gasket is bad, it doesn't matter what you do. the jet on top is a straight jet and it doesn't have any gasket on it. the link above also has those jets or you could probably replace the gasket with an oring from a hardware store. now, the outer ring on those jets is screwed into the jet body on the back of the tub, don't try unscrewing the outer ring. just the inner part, the jet tool has slots on one end that fit over those 3 spokes and it unscrews off. the top jet has little nubbies down past the nozzle that the jet tool fit on. what happens if you put the shop vac over the jet itself and try to suck. does it still act like it is sealed? you almost have to get the jet out of there so you can get the nozzle down inside of it. those jets look just like the jets that are in a hydro spa. does that ring any bells. is it a hydroquip spa pack. well anyway i probably just gave you more work to do, let me know how you make out.

well, yeh it is hard on the shop vac . if you can post a pic of the first jet in the line i have books that show just about every jet ever made.

I actually tried that already, but nothing happened. ok, i must be missing something, i'm about stumped at this point. i guess we need roto-rooter. Well, I'll at least try blowing again with the pump on high and see where that gets me. Thanks again for all your assistance. i worked on a tub that sat for about 3 years and it had air bubbler jets mounted in the seats. when i turned on the blower nothing came out but like you, i heard the motor rev up like it does against a restriction. i left it on for about 10 minutes and skinny black strings started coming out of the little holes in the bubbler jets. by the time air finally started coming out those strings were about 6 inches long. they had the consistency of toothpaste. now those jets were fed by a 3/8 plastic line. your air tube to the jets is probably 3/4 to 1 in pvc. they are going to have water in them from water backing up from the jets, there's always going to be water in them. you're going to have to make a pretty good seal on the shop vac hose to the plumbing in order to push the water and then whatever is clogging up those lines out. i don't know, maybe duct tape, pvc adapters. i use a sears 12 amp shop vac and it still has a hard time pushing stuff through. there is one more thing you can try, plumbers use a device that connects to a garden hose and they stick it in a clogged pipe and it expands to the size of the pipe and water pressure builds up and pushes the clog through. i forget what they're called but it is made out of rubber with a garden hose connection on one end. there are different sizes, i have one for my drains in my house and it's worked everytime. i got mine from a little hardware store on the corner but lowe's might have them or home depot. just make sure you measure the inside of the pipe so you don't get one too big. you have to be patient, it has to build up pressure against the clog. it took 20 min to move a clog in my house. have the pump off so you can tell when water comes out of the jet. at least that will tell you if the pipe itself is clogged, do you know what kind of tub it is, a model number or is there a manufacturer name on the jets themselves. i've worked on a lot of old tubs and if i can find your jets then i'll know how to remove them, if need be.

I actually tried that already, but nothing happened. ok, i must be missing something, i'm about stumped at this point. i guess we need roto-rooter. Well, I'll at least try blowing again with the pump on high and see where that gets me. Thanks again for all your assistance. i worked on a tub that sat for about 3 years and it had air bubbler jets mounted in the seats. when i turned on the blower nothing came out but like you, i heard the motor rev up like it does against a restriction. i left it on for about 10 minutes and skinny black strings started coming out of the little holes in the bubbler jets. by the time air finally started coming out those strings were about 6 inches long. they had the consistency of toothpaste. now those jets were fed by a 3/8 plastic line. your air tube to the jets is probably 3/4 to 1 in pvc. they are going to have water in them from water backing up from the jets, there's always going to be water in them. you're going to have to make a pretty good seal on the shop vac hose to the plumbing in order to push the water and then whatever is clogging up those lines out. i don't know, maybe duct tape, pvc adapters. i use a sears 12 amp shop vac and it still has a hard time pushing stuff through. there is one more thing you can try, plumbers use a device that connects to a garden hose and they stick it in a clogged pipe and it expands to the size of the pipe and water pressure builds up and pushes the clog through. i forget what they're called but it is made out of rubber with a garden hose connection on one end. there are different sizes, i have one for my drains in my house and it's worked everytime. i got mine from a little hardware store on the corner but lowe's might have them or home depot. just make sure you measure the inside of the pipe so you don't get one too big. you have to be patient, it has to build up pressure against the clog. it took 20 min to move a clog in my house. have the pump off so you can tell when water comes out of the jet.

I actually tried that already, but nothing happened. ok, i must be missing something, i'm about stumped at this point. i guess we need roto-rooter. Well, I'll at least try blowing again with the pump on high and see where that gets me. Thanks again for all your assistance. i worked on a tub that sat for about 3 years and it had air bubbler jets mounted in the seats. when i turned on the blower nothing came out but like you, i heard the motor rev up like it does against a restriction. i left it on for about 10 minutes and skinny black strings started coming out of the little holes in the bubbler jets. by the time air finally started coming out those strings were about 6 inches long. they had the consistency of toothpaste. now those jets were fed by a 3/8 plastic line. your air tube to the jets is probably 3/4 to 1 in pvc. they are going to have water in them from water backing up from the jets, there's always going to be water in them. you're going to have to make a pretty good seal on the shop vac hose to the plumbing in order to push the water and then whatever is clogging up those lines out. i don't know, maybe duct tape, pvc adapters. i use a sears 12 amp shop vac and it still has a hard time pushing stuff through.

I actually tried that already, but nothing happened. ok, i must be missing something, i'm about stumped at this point. i guess we need roto-rooter.

usually not on the larger pipes like you have. well if you have the pipe cut underneath you could try putting the shop vac on the pipe and duct taping it and try sucking through the pipe and see what comes out. if you do that don't turn the pump on, have everything turned off. when i said to blow air through the air adjuster itself, i meant blow it through from the top of the tub. take the handle off and whatever cover is there and blow down through the top. if air comes out underneath, at least you know that the air adjuster works. that would mean that the problem is in the pipes. you can't blow on it from underneath coz there's a check ball or valve, depending on the type of air adjuster that was installed, and that will keep air from blowing through that way. blow down through the top.

i went on the site and looked at them, they seem like a pretty good cover.