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Should also mention that most of those parts are much newer than the 2001 Shell was. I think all of the pumps were less than 5 years old when the tub froze up. The heater too. I replaced the 3 main relays in the controller box that control the heater just before the tub froze up.

I updated the title to include "FREE" to make sure there was no misunderstanding that I am looking to give away parts and not looking for advice on obtaining parts. I can't imagine that nobody would want the pumps and/or controller box at least. Those are expensive working parts. Oh well. I'll wait a week and after that it all goes to the Salvation Army, Goodwill, or any other outfit that wants them. I hate to trash them. I might keep the pumps in that regard. But I have no use for the controller box, heater, switches, sensors, etc...

My hot tub died, I think it was 2024. A breaker tripped and the tub froze up causing cracks in the pvc plumbing. The tub was over 20 years old so I pulled all the parts and took a reciprocating saw to the shell and lid and hauled that stuff to the junk yard. I kept the parts in a plastic tub indoors and did try to sell them locally, but never got any bites. Chances of someone having a 20+ year old Sundance tub locally was slim to begin with. I'm tired of them sittingin my garage in a tub but I don't want to just throw them away. Ideas on what I can do with them? Goodwill, Army Salvation, etc... ? I'd be willing to ship them if someone wants to pay for the shipping. These parts are from a 2001 Sundance Cameo 850 series hot tub. * control box with circuit board - CONTROLLER 850LCD - (I replaced the three main relays in 2021 or 2022) * spa flo-thru heater * 230v 2-speed motor(pump) * 230v 1-speed motor(pump) * 230v continuous circulation pump * main topside control keypad * secondary topside control keypad * FLO switch * temperature sensor * 2 Cover Valet gas shock assisted hot tub cover lifters (these have been outside, I would need to verify they are still good) I can provide closeup pics of any of the parts if requested.

Thanks guys. I ended up ordering online from SpaDepot. They had a plumbing repair kit which included a 90 degree tail piece which may be handy. I had moved the location of the circulation pump in the past and making the plumbing connection to the straight tail piece was causing tension on that uni-nut, which is why it probably broke after a few years. I learned about the measurements used in plumbing from this experience, so I thank you. In the past I have replaced the heater a few times, the circ pump several times, a main pump once, numerous flow switches, hi-limit sensors, temp sensors, hot tub covers and lifts, and soldered new main relays on the circuit board, but I have never had to mess with the plumbing. This old Sundance tub is 22 years old now; plumbing lines may be getting brittle.

Yes, it is. I don't understand why they call it 2.5" when everything measures closer to 3". But, yes, that part # I got has a description as a 2.5" mbt for 3" housing. I would just like to get it locally if I could; online prices for a piece of plastic seem rather high. I might be able to find a 2.5" split-nut locally that would work. Thanks fro responding.

Got a replay back directly from Therm Products. They say the part # is 42-2333B-K. Unfortunately I can't find it anywhere online without having to pay around $14 to ship a less than 1 pound item. I refuse to do that. I'll check out the local big box stores and plumbing shops.

Need part #s or places where I can go buy the following: Heater end screw cap busted during the winter, which caused other lines to freeze and break. The hoses in the equipment compartment were getting kind of old, dry, and brittle so I'm going to replace as much as I can anyway. The heater is a 13"x3" low flow vertical heater. I need that black 3" screw cap that cracked. I can try the big box stores, but I bet a plumping parts store might be the place to go if I can't get a part # to order online. Omaha, NE.

Wanted to finish this post up for anyone else who runs across it. I limped through the rest of Winter with the "OH" error. During the Spring and Summer I left the tub off days at a time and turned it on a few hours before evenings that I thought I would use it; then I would turn it back off. I just didn't like the idea of the heater running constantly until it hit the high-limit (OH). I could tap the 3 heater relays and the voltage to the heater would go off, but once the temp of the tub dropped and the heater kicked back on, it would stay on. PITA. REMINDER: this is a Sundance 2001 850 Series Cameo "CONTROLLER 850LCD" circuit board. At any case, today, I did pull the circuit board, removed the three big relays (Zettler AZ2100-1A-12DEF) that fed the heater. They were labled as K1, K2, and K3 on the circuit board. I soldered on 3 new relays I got off of Amazon. Works perfectly. I think it was the middle relay K2 hat was having issues. I replaced them all. K1 and K2 fed the heater's RED wire while K3 fed the heater's BLACK wire. I did follow the trace lines to see what the other relays went to. The five Potter & Brumfield T9AS1D12-12 relays were grouped as two separate groups. The 3 in a group labled as K4, K5, and K6 went to the 3-wire 2-speed pump (TB1). The 2 in a group labled as K7 and K8 went to the 2-wire 1-speed pump (also TB1). If memory serves me correct, the four Potter & Brumfield relays RKS-1DG-12, the two outside ones labeled as K11 and K12 went to the circulation pump (TB2), the inside two labeled as K9 and K10 went to the ozonator (TB6) (which I don't have). The blower (TB4) did not have a relay associated with it. It may run through the circuit board fuses. There are 8A and 15A fuses on there which should suffice for a small blower motor. On my tub, TB5 is the SPA light, and TB3 is not used. Hope this helps someone.

So far the tub is running as it should since lightly rapping on the relays. No "OH" errors. I was scouring the Internet yesterday trying to find a good schematic of the board. Can't find one that shows the interconnection between the switches, relays, and mechanical devices. The switches probably lead to the eeprom where programming will determine whether to trigger a relay or not. If I get to the point of pulling the board I can trace the etching lines on the back. But, just from looking at the relays on the front, K1-K2-K3 go to the heater, K4-K5 goes to the 2-speed pump, K6 goes to the 1 speed pump, K7 goes to the circulation pump, and K8 goes to the ozonator which I have disconnected. K9-K10-K11-K12 not sure about but one of them probably goes to the air pump. Again, just guessing. Have not put in the new circ pump. Debating on that. It is a nice thought to think I have a brand new, extra circ pump sitting on the shelf if I should need it down the road. On the other hand, if I don't put it in, I can't verify it works within the warranty period. I know I said I thought the old circ pump wasn't running all the time, but after reading about the "Summer Logic" , which I quoted above and have reposted below, that could be normal. I'm guessing my circ pump was turning off between the when 2 degrees over was reached, but turning back on (maybe) when the "OH" error occurred. This probably compounded my problem since the heater relay was stuck closed. Could explain the "gurgling" sound in the heater housing too. Turn on breaker, water temp is a few degrees above set temp but below OH temp, so circ pump is off by "Summer Logic", but heater relay is stuck closed causing heater to heat with no flow through it until the "OH" occurs and the low-speed pump (and maybe the circ pump) turn on. NOTE: After a long filter cycle, you may notice that the water temperature is greater than the temperature setting. This can happen in such a well insulated hot tub because, even though the heater turns off as intended, the transference of heat from the pump continues to add warmth to the water. If the water temperature is above 95°F (35°C) and two degrees above your set temperature, the circulation pump (and ozone generator, if equipped) will shut off until the water temperature cools to the set temperature. In warm weather, it may be necessary to reduce filter cycle run time to prevent this type of heat overrange from occuring. This may be my last post unless things change. For now, all is good. I appreciate the help. EDIT: 9-30-2021, wanted to add that I did install a new circulation pump. Did not solve the problem. The old one was going on 10 years, so I probably needed the new pump anyway. I can live with that cost.

The temp sensor resistance, the display temp, and the actual temp measured with a thermometer are all the same. Also, the resistance measured on the hi-limit sensor puts it in a range that would trigger an "OH" error on this tub. There is nothing wrong with the sensors. They are doing their job (thankfully for the high-limit sensor). I agree there may still be a flow problem as indicated by the boiling water in the heater. Even though the heater should not have been on, the circ pump should have put some flow through it to keep it from boiling; at least I would think. I am an electronics engineer. B.S. in Electronics Engineering Technology. I've designed and built circuit boards in the past. I've done computer board work for people also. Working on the board shouldn't be a problem if that is the route I need to go. If you're referring to above the Revision sticker, I think that is a reflection, but I will inspect it closer in the daylight tomorrow. Good catch. I did inspect the board and that didn't catch my eye. The OH range of 108-112 was something I was trying to find out. I thought it might be more like 114-120 before the "OH" occurred. If the tub keeps heating until the temp in the heater reaches 108 or so, I guess the water temp in the tub would probably be a few degrees cooler than in the heater. Seems to jive with what I have been experiencing. Thanks for the input.

Think I've found the problem. With the set temp down to 100 the display panel was reading 106 along with an "OH" error. I had already replaced the temp sensor so I thought it might be heat transference from a motor running hot and was worried it might be an expensive main pump. With the set temp at 100, the water temp at 106, I turned off the breaker, waited a good 10 minutes to gather my tools and opened up the equipment bay. I double checked all 3 sensors. The flow switch was open when the tub was off and later when I turned the tub back on the flow switch was closed with the 2-speed pump on or when only the circ pump was working, so the circ pump is working at least well enough to close the flow switch. The temp sensors I measured immediately after initially turning the breaker off. Temp sensor measured 15.82kohms (which should be around 105-106 degrees) and the hi-limit sensor measured 13.90kohms which is off the chart but probably above 110 degrees. The lower the resistance the higher the temperature with these sensors. My chart only goes up to 16.149kohms which is 104 degrees. When I turned on the breaker, I heard the "gurgling" sound in the heater that I mentioned in an earlier post, and measured 240v going to the heater until the "OH" error started (maybe 30 seconds later, not sure on that time) which turned the heater back off. The display panel did NOT show that the heater was running. The temp sensor should have been keeping the heater from turning on. After running the tub for a while, I checked by touch for heat from the main and circ pumps. Not hot to the touch at all. I went ahead and put in my other hi-limit sensor anyway, since I had the equipment bay opened up. I believe all 4 of my sensors (2 hi-limit / 2 temp) are good. I figured I had a stuck relay on the main board, in particular, the one that goes with the temp sensor. I turned the tub off again, took my hammer and gently tapped on all of the relays, turned the tub back on, and no more 240v to the heater and no more "OH" error. I think my 20 year old board is needing some attention. I'm good at soldering, if I can limp into Spring maybe I can try to find new relays and solder them on the board. I read somewhere that somebody attempted that. Hate to buy a replacement board. Expensive. I also wonder if my old circ pump is too weak for proper water flow through the heater to prevent the "OH" error even with a stuck relay. But when the heater is heating water that is already at 106 degrees maybe it might still cause the "OH" error????? . Anyone know what the high-limit temp is on these 850 LCD boards? I did receive a new circ pump yesterday (I thought it was going to be another few weeks). I'm going to let things run as they are for a little bit. See what problems pop up. MIght be a good idea to replace that old circ pump anyway; I thought it was acting up. Does my analysis sound correct to everyone???? I've attached a picture of the main board.

Yup. That's what I am doing. I'm also trying to establish a pattern as to what is happening to help others who might catch this post in the future. Help them try to narrow things down based on their symptoms and by eliminating variables. I'm going to replace the hi-limit sensor in the next few days when I get a decent day, since the circ pump won't be here for a couple of weeks. What other testing would you do that I haven't already done? Regarding a digital thermometer, I found out that some cheaper ones are better calibrated to a certain range of temps and give inaccurate readings outside that range. In my case, I'll stick with my glass-tube thermometer which is reading the same as the display.

New day. I'll keep adding what I can to this post in case someone is following it. Set temp is 101, display temp is 100, no pumps are running. As expected. I went back inside the house and after a short period (maybe 15 minutes or so) I heard the low-speed pump kick on when it shouldn't have. I went out and checked the display and sure enough, it has an "OH" error. The water temp must have dropped another degree causing the heater and circ pump to run (the circ pump is suppose to run when the heater kicks on despite having programmed it from 24/7 to 0/0). I guess the flow was not enough causing the "OH" error from the hi-limit sensor in the heater unit which also causes the low-speed pump (and air blower if I still had one) to kick on to help cool the tub (or in this case the heater housing) down. 99% sure the circ pump is the problem though a faulty hi-limit sensor may still cause these symptoms. A buildup in the heater (calcium/corrosion/etc..) could maybe complicate the issue as mentioned above.

I have programmed the circ pump from 24/7 to 0/0 so it won't run programmatically. The 2-speed pump is already programmed to run at 6am, 12pm, 6pm, 12am for 30 minutes at each time. I turned that down to 15 minutes. If the water temp drops below the set temp, the heater/circ pump are suppose to kick in to heat the tub back up. If the water temp drops more than 20 degrees below the set temp, the low speed pump is also suppose to kick in. So I shouldn't have to worry about it freezing. My thinking is there may be heat transfer from the equipment bay to the heater housing causing that OH error. I haven't had the breaker trip in quite a few days too. Not sure why not when it was tripping every few days. I may disconnect the secondary control panel in case it has water or something in it causing a motor to kick on/off randomly. Again, thinking a motor might be heating up. Might even try 'economy' mode so that the filtration cycles are turned off. The heater/circ pump/low-spd pump should still work as above. Ordered a circ pump. Won't get it for a couple of weeks.