shamus57

I tested my tap water with the following results: Free Chlorine: 1.5 or 2.0 (its tough for me to distinguish the colors) Combined Chlorine: 1.5 or 2.0 (I didn't see any color change) PH: 8.0 (acid demand was 3 drops to 7.4 or 7.6, which seems pretty good) TA: 100 Cal. Hardness: 175 (Note: as in my pool water, the solution starts out a uniform red, then as I add drops, the red gathers into beads/globules in a clear solution. I called Taylor and they suggested I add 5 drops of the titrant (sp?) (in this case R-0012) into the untreated water, then test as normal. At the end, take the number of drops needed to affect change and add 5. It took 2 drops to affect change at the end; when added to 5 (the amt initially used), that gave a total of 7 * 25ppm = 175ppm) I'm going to go try that with my pool water. I'll post the results.

duplicate post. sorry.

1. Yes, I was interpolating my CYA. 2. I'll turn down my SWG for a day or two to get the chlorine down. Most of the time my chlorine isn't that high. I just wanted to be sure to kill all the algae =)

Hello. I have an in-ground, plaster pool, approximately 21000 gallons (121 linear feet, average depth is 5 to 5.5 feet), salt water generator (Jandy). I saw a small algae bloom the other day and shocked with 3 gallons of 6% chlorine bleach, set my SWG to 100%, and let it run. I used a Taylor K-2005 test kit for the following readings: Free Chlorine: 40ppm? (I diluted the sample with tap water, per the kit instructions, and it was still off the chart) Total Chlorine: 40ppm? same as above Combined Chlorine: unknown Salt level: 3100ppm (per the Jandy sensor) pH: 7.4 (although it tends to fluctuate pretty dramatically. I'll put about 1/2 gallon per week of muratic acid to keep it there, otherwise it gets 8.0+) Total Alkalinity: 170 Calcium Hardness: soft endpoint - approx 750? (about 30 drops at 25 ppm a drop) Cyanuric Acid: 58ppm I'm trying to get the calcium hardness down (or whatever else it takes to get the water back into good shape). Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I'll keep adding 1/2 gallon a day until it comes down. What can I add to reduce my calcium level? My water is looking better, still a algae bloom or two, but I keep sweeping. I'll have to get the test kit for salt.

WOW! it took awhile, but I removed enough pool water and added enough fresh water to get my ppm of salt back to 3500. I added .5 gallons of muratic acid last night and 2 gallons of .6% no-scent chlorine this morning. This evening's readings of the pool water are: Free Chlorine=5 (the darkest reading) Total Chlorine=5 (the darkest reading) PH: 8.0 Acid Demand = 3 drops to 7.4 Alkalinity: 12 drops or 120ppm Calcium hardness: 45 drops x 10 for 450 CYA: 58 ppm Tap Water: FC= .25 (really, really light shade of pink/red) TC= 1.0 or 1.5 (tough to tell shade difference) PH= 8.0 Acid Demand= 2 drops to 7.4 alkalinity: 12 drops or 120ppm calcium hardness: 10 drops to blue x 25 = 250ppm (I used the 10ml sample this time)

OK. I pulled the swg. I notice it had a "no flow" error prior to removal. It had relativly minor scaling on the inside. I soaked it for 10 min in a muriatic acid/water solution, and now it looks great. I reinstalled and still got the "no flow" error. I cleaned the sensor with a mild solution of muratic /water and when I reinstalled, my salt reading went up to 4100ppm (from 3500ppm). I'm adding fresh water and draining old water as I type. I also added 2 quarts acid (prior to finding out about the no flow problem), but I guess that will be diluted as I am adding new water. After my ppm gets to 3500 or so, I'll retest and post the results.

OK. I added 1/2 gallon of muratic acid at about 6 AM and left the pump running. I purchased a Taylor Test Kit K2005 (they didn't have a K2006) Pool water test results needed: I tested at approx 10 am Free chlorine = 0 (totally clear result) Combined chlorine = 1 or 1.5 (tough to tell, maybe I'm a bit color blind) pH = 8.0 Acid demand test result = 3 drops to about 7.4 pH Alkalinity = 13 drops or 130 ppm Calcium Hardness (Not Total Hardness) = 55 drops/550 PPM ?? I did it twice. the first was about 52 drops or so. There were red "clumps" of stuff floating around before it turned a light blue/purpleish color, afterward there was still clumps of darker colored stuff floating around. very strange. Cyanuric acid. 57 to 58 ppm Temperature: 84 deg. Fahrenheit Accurate volume of pool (Not estimate): still working on it.. 22,100 seems to be best guesstimate now. Supply water readings needed: (not sure what you mean by this second set of measurements..) pH: 8.0 ? Acid demand test result: 3 drops / to 7.4 pH Alkalinity: 13 drops / 130 ppm Calcium Hardness (Not Total Hardness) / 55 drops / 550 ppm Sat. Index: approx. 0.95 Thanks for all the help!

will do. I'll get some acid today and add it later tonight. I'll buy the testing kit tomorrow morning (my dad has a wholesale account at a local supplier) and test the pool and report back. thanks for the help.

my mistake, sodium bisulfate.

Hello, I have an in-ground pool/spa, southern California, quartz/plaster mix, jandy aquapure 1400 salt water generator, currenlty 3500ppm, running 80% of the time. The total linear feet is approximately 121. Average depth is about 5.5 feet. (deep end is about 7.5 feet and we have a baja reef at about 24"). I estimate the gallons at 22 thousand, but I could be off. The pool is about a year old, and i've had trouble with the chemistry since filling it. Recently, I started to have green algae. My PH has always been super high, dark pink About 7 days ago, I started adding PH down (again) by clearview (sodium bisulfate). I've been adding 10 cups per day in the morning to my spa, with the air-blower and pump going to circulate. The spa overflows into the pool. I've gone through the majority of my 50lb barrel of ph down. 5 days ago, I added 32 ounces of algecide (hoping the decrease in PH would help the algecide be more effective). My test strips say the following: Total Hardness, very high, 1000 ppm? total chlorine, very low, 0 ppm free chlorine, very low 0 ppm ph, high to very high, 7.8-8.4 total alkalinity, high, 180 ppm stabilizer, ok, 50ppm I did a drop/chemical test (where you add drops of solutions to the pool water in the test tubes), and my chlorine is very light yellow, confirming the test strip. Strangely enough, my swg has always performed well, and kept the chlorine high. After adding 40lbs of PH down, shouldn't it be lower than 7.8 ish? Does algecide affect chlorine? Any assistance would be great. Thanks, -J