ScottyS Posted April 8, 2009 Report Share Posted April 8, 2009 Hey Guys... I have a older RayPac 250,000 BTU Nat Gas Pool Heater that's still working like a champ, these are well made simple to operate and simple to maintan. It uses a Honeywell Gas valve and spark igniter. We live in So Calif and seldom used the heater for our pool and we just installed an above gound Acrilic/Fiberglass Spa and Pump, the new pump and old heater are seprated from the pool water. The heater works great just as it is supposed to, however when it reaches a temperature of about 98 F., it shuts down and won't relight for about 20 mins. We would like it to reach atleast 103 to 105F with the Temp Control set to max. I have checked and cleaned all the terminals and wires with a voltmeter, all is good. Does anyone know if there is some internal limitation on these old RayPac's that prevent damage from overheating? Or could the Temperature Control and Capilary / ThermoCouple need replacing? The unit is not on a timer and we just simply use the heater 'on demand' and shut off and disconnect power after every use. Would it make sense to possibly cut the brass ThermoCouple / Capilary Bulb off the back of the Temp Controller so it does not shut the unit off? I have attached a photo of the Temp/ Control. Thanks, Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pathfinder Posted April 8, 2009 Report Share Posted April 8, 2009 Im guessing its older than 10yrs since the raypaks 10 yrs and up had a separate controls for spa with a switch to move between pool mode & spa mode. Im going to guess there is a bypass of some sort that can be put in but I would advise against it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottyS Posted April 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2009 Im guessing its older than 10yrs since the raypaks 10 yrs and up had a separate controls for spa with a switch to move between pool mode & spa mode. Im going to guess there is a bypass of some sort that can be put in but I would advise against it. Thanks for the reply... Yes, this heater is maybe 15 years old, but in great condition and works fantastic. Probably best not to mess with this too much. In my other house I had a similar Teledyne Larrs Gas Heater, and that thing would crank the spa temp up to 110 F if I let it, and then some.... There is a tag / plate inside the RayPac that says 'Unitherm Governor" that's what led me to think there was some limit device to it's heat output or thermal capacity. I'm sure this RayPack could make it to 103F , it's built solid like an old american battle tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg340 Posted April 9, 2009 Report Share Posted April 9, 2009 Hey Guys... I have a older RayPac 250,000 BTU Nat Gas Pool Heater that's still working like a champ, these are well made simple to operate and simple to maintan. It uses a Honeywell Gas valve and spark igniter. We live in So Calif and seldom used the heater for our pool and we just installed an above gound Acrilic/Fiberglass Spa and Pump, the new pump and old heater are seprated from the pool water. The heater works great just as it is supposed to, however when it reaches a temperature of about 98 F., it shuts down and won't relight for about 20 mins. We would like it to reach atleast 103 to 105F with the Temp Control set to max. I have checked and cleaned all the terminals and wires with a voltmeter, all is good. Does anyone know if there is some internal limitation on these old RayPac's that prevent damage from overheating? Or could the Temperature Control and Capilary / ThermoCouple need replacing? The unit is not on a timer and we just simply use the heater 'on demand' and shut off and disconnect power after every use. Would it make sense to possibly cut the brass ThermoCouple / Capilary Bulb off the back of the Temp Controller so it does not shut the unit off? I have attached a photo of the Temp/ Control. Thanks, Scott That heater should not have a problem getting to 104. if its not i would say the the thermostat is bad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pool Clown Posted April 10, 2009 Report Share Posted April 10, 2009 Wow that looks like a versa 1st gen IID! I used to have a pair of pliers that I grinded away on one side and used it to adjust the thermostat max point. Thats what yours sounds like. 1st Make sure the knob on the thermostat doesn't have the lock set to keep the knob from going all the way up. Then check after it cycles off, short the thermostat, and if it lights, New thermostat. Also, stop painting your heater. It smells funny when the heater is on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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