natenewz

Here are pictures of the pump impeller fitting, and where I had to tap a new hole. The original plastic fitting snapped off and then the hole started squirting water all over the place. I also took a picture of the burnt up hi limit sensor. http://imgur.com/a/Y6bv4

Hi ScubaDave, I have good news and bad news. The good news is that I found the issue based on your last message. The wire connecting the pressure switch to the circuit board was broken in the harness somewhere. I measured continuity from one end and the other and only one of the wires was working. So I made a new harness using the old end and put it in. The bad news was, when I was taking it out, I broke the plastic fitting connecting the pump impeller to the heater inlet and had to plug the whole and tap a new one. So I drained the water out to fix that, and filled it back up again. I turned it on to see if all was well and got an Sn code. I didn't know what the code meant, so I turned it off and back on again. Somehow the 2nd time the heater was getting very hot and melted the sensor that sits in a metal pocket right next to it. I disconnected the heater element and tried turning it on to get the pump going, but the pump won't turn on because of the damaged sensor. I read the Sn code means there is a problem with that sensor, and I know it's damaged because it's black and smelled bad when it happened. The weird thing was that when the heater was getting very hot, I didn't hear boiling water like before in the heater tube, so I'm not sure how that's possible since the tub was full when I turned it on. Either way, I'm going to pull the damaged sensor out and order a new one. Unfortunately, it snowed 12" last night after all this happened, so I've got a cattle heater in the tub keeping the water from freezing while it's off. Thanks for your help, I think it's close to fixed. Let me know if you have any suggestions or ideas. Nate

Hi ScubaDave, I will check on the instructions you posted, but I don't think there is that much adjustment available. I think you can only change F3, F6, F9, or FC as well as setting the temperature. I have the temperature set to 80 degrees right now, and the water is less than 80 degrees when I reset it. I'll dig into that more this evening. I tried what you suggested and reset the tub, the pump and heater turned on. I measured 220-240V across the heating element. I then unplugged the motor while it was running and the heater stayed on at the same voltage and started boiling water in the pipe. So I think that is the issue. Do you think the pressure switch needs adjusted, or something else? I wondered about a sticky heater relay, but if that was the case the tub would overheat when in "FC" mode wouldn't it? Thanks for your help so far. Nate

Okay, I checked it like you suggested. When I came home from work, the OH code was flashing, pump was off. I checked for continuity on the pressure switch, and it was an open. Then I reset the tub and turned the pump on the slow circulation setting. I checked the continuity again while it was running and it was a short. So it seems like the pressure switch is working correctly. Also, I realize now that in my original post, I said I had replaced the limit switch recently. I was confusing the limit switch and the pressure switch. I had recently replaced the pressure switch that I just tested, not the limit switch. Thanks for your help so far, Nate

It just has the one main pump for circulation and jets.

Hi, I have an older hot tub that I bought used. I'm pretty sure it was made by combining parts from several. I want to run in the "F3" mode instead of the "FC" mode to save power by not running the pump continuously all the time, however when I put it in "F3" mode after some time (longer than an hour, less than a day) it throws the "OH" code and stops running until I reset it. To be clear, when it is in the "FC" continuous mode, it does not throw the code. So, my question is: Where do I start debugging? I've already replaced the limit switch recently for a different issue, so I don't think that's the issue. I can use a multimeter and solder if needed, but just wondering for likely culprits. http://imgur.com/a/BULJE Above are some pictures of the control panel.