Aad

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About Aad

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  1. Ok it seems like the problem is solved. The spa is still hot and "ready" after a couple of days now. So the old relayboard was the problem after all. Even though it looked good, no damage or burn spots, it was not working right. Thanks again and take care!
  2. Quick update guys before I go to work, just installed the new relayboard and got power to the heater terminals right away! So that's great. Let's see if it will keep working like it should. I'll keep you posted. Thanks for all your advice! Aad
  3. Aha, that makes sense and explaines why the jumper is used. Well the relayboard is here in customs. Hope to get it soon and see what happens when installed. Thanks for your input!
  4. Dave, ah off course, a flow switch mounted somewhere in the lines/tubes. Well this spa doesn't have one like that. From what I've read the original flow switch was in the heater itself. From there it was connected (electricly) to the main board. Maybe somewhere down the line the original heater was replaced by the trumpet style one, without flow switch inside. Hence the jumper on the main board..
  5. I think so too. Heater is ordered and I will tell you guys how things will work when installed. Thanks.
  6. Hello guys, a pressure switch Dave? I would say so. I assume it must be in the circuitboard somewhere. Replacing a bad pressureswitch instead of the whole board would be a great fix if needed! I did remove the jumper once, then the "heater on" and "Lim" leds started blinking right away. So I put it back in, but had to restart to get things to "normal". Next time I'll try your method, restart the spa, after the circ pump starts, than replace the jumper.. By the way, the spa worked fine in this setup for months (since we owned it), including the jumper, Filter is not the issue, I removed it and the heater still wouldn't heat, for days. We are now waiting for the new relayboard, Really hope that's the solution.. If not, your pressureswitch replacement will be next on my list. Thanks again for all your ideas. We really appreciate this. I'll keep you posted. Greeting from a rainy and windy Holland. Aad ps. I would love to attach more pics of the spa/circuitboards. But space on this forum is very limited so I already reached to max. (I do not mean to critisize, don't get me wrong)
  7. Thanks again Dave, the two sensors seem ok. I measured resistance and they gave the right figures according to a chart I found. They are connected correctly to the board, and High limit is not jumped. The pressure switch is jumped. It seems that if the green Lim led is lid, the sensor is ok. The red light lid tells us the circuitboard is calling for heat. In the Netherlands we get 220 (Hot) from the house, and when called for heat, 220 to the heater terminals, So different from the US.This is what I also measured when the spa was working proparly. I did remove the relay board (and main board). They look great in front and back. Nothing burned. All soldered connections like new. I gave the relays a slight tab, no result. So...., I ordered a new Relay circuitboard. After everything I've read and measurded I'm pretty sure that's the culprit.. And I do turn off the power with every move I take Dave! Thanks again for your advise. Keep you posted.
  8. Hello ScubaDave, thanks for you answer. I'm totally new to spas. This is our first one and I knew nothing about the technical side of spas. Did alot of internet reading because of the cold water, and learned a little. The jumper was already there. I also wondered why someone would jump this safety feature. Probably because the old (and new) heater had no connector to connect to the main board. The only thing I did was replace the heater. I just measured the new heater and it is ok. The "Lim end Heater on" leds or on. Which should mean that there is no safety or temp reason not to power the heater.. But still there is no power to the heater terminals?! I just read this; "My 220 Volt Spa No Longer Gets Hot When calling for heat, is the heat indicator light/icon on on the topside control? Yes, It Is: Measure the voltage across both hot wires coming from the house. You should see 220 volts on your volt meter - note that measuring from each wire to ground will not give an accurate reading). If you DON'T have 220 volts, then you have an issue with the GFCI breaker in the main breaker box. If you DO have 220 volts across both hot wires coming from the house, then next measure the voltage across both heating element pins. You should see 220 volts. If you do not, then the circuit board is faulty and will need to be replaced or sent to us for repair" Read it here; https://spacare.com/circuitboardtroubleshooting.aspx#1 This applies to our spa. So the main board (or relay board) seem to be the problem.. About the relay board, the relays or on the backside of the board. All new ones have the relays in front!?
  9. Hello Guys, I'm Aad from the Netherlands (Europe). We've been enjoying the Tiger River Bengal Spa for a few months now, but some weeks ago the water got cold and wouldn't heat up anymore. Pump, Jetpump and lamp do work. I shut the power off and on again, Removed the filter (put in clean one later). Set the temperature and the spa will heat up nicely to that heat, and the "Ready" light comes on in the display like it should. It's a 230V, 1.5Kv model from 2004. No error messages in the display. Led's "Lim ok" and "Heater on" are on. It has a new heater (I thought the old one was the problem since it measured no resistance). Pressure switch is (and was) "jumped" on circuitboard. I measured resistance on the High limit sensor wire and the Regulator thermostat wire, both about 9 Ohm. Which seems ok with water temperature now at 82 degrees Fahrenheit. Few days ago, just before starting the spa up again, I also connected a lamp to the heater therminals, to see when heater actually comes on or off. It took some time, but then the lamp (and thus heater) came on. The lamp (and heater) started to go off, and on, and off several times, to finally shut off after more then a day. And never comes on again... "Ready" indicator lid on display, untill temperature drops. The circuit boards look ok, but I'm starting to think it's a board problem. But which one of the two.. Hope you guys can help, I'm starting to loose sleep over this issue ;-) Thanks, Aad
  10. Hey Joebrez, I have the same problem! Gonna post it too. Did you solve it?