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About ScubaDave

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    New Jersey
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    Hot Tub Repair
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  1. Aad - This is what your flow switch looks like (sorry, I called it a pressure switch earlier): Sometimes they've been replaced with a clear plastic flow switch. It would be mounted in the 3/4" hose by the circ pump. It looks like there's a white fitting on the input side of your circ pump, but I can't zoom in to the image clearly. That may be your flow switch. When the circ pump is running, the switch closes, so if you check for continuity on the wires coming out of the switch, you would get continuity when water's flowing and no continuity when water's not flowing.
  2. Features aside, having a local dealer with a good reputation will be the most important feature. We have some great Jacuzzi and Hotsprings dealers in our region, so those customers tend to be very happy. I've worked on quite a few Sundance spas and think they're well made - I only have one Bullfrog customer. His circuit board went soon after his warranty expired, but Bullfrog gave him a generous discount on the new parts. His electronics were Balboa, so the fact they died soon after the warranty ended is no reflection at all on Bullfrog. Balboa guts are in 30 or 40% of the hot tubs out there. My point, anyhow, is that Bullfrog stood behind their product. I always recommend my customers to stay away from wifi apps and stereo systems. Electronics will break down first and repairs are very expensive. Pop up speakers will break as soon as the warranty runs out. Bluetooth is a little more sensible than DVD/CD players, at least there are no moving parts. A hot tub is, obviously, a hot, humid environment and not well suited to stereos. Speakers mounted in the walls are definitely better than speakers mounted in the tub tub. Top mounted speakers are like water funnels and no matter how many gaskets they put in or how tightly mounted, water seems to always get into the speakers. I've seen a few spas with wifi issues related to firewalls on the homeowner's router. I don't know your situation but it's worth discussing with your dealer in advance. I get that wifi is useful if you want to turn the heat up in the tub when you're on the way home from work, but the concept of updating your hot tub's software is silly. I think it's a feature in search of a need, not the other way around. Although I'm sure it will generate a lot of business for us in the future as iPhone auto-correct changes everyone's keystrokes and their hot tubs stop working :).
  3. The new old heater relay boards have different connectors than the new ones, so you may have to do some wire cutting. It's not the most difficult hot tub repair to make, but my advice would be if you're not handy or technically inclined, I'd leave the high voltage repairs to a professional. If you attempt it yourself, make sure your power is turned off. All the breakers in the sub-panel, not just the one you think is for the heater. Take a picture of the existing board and wiring so when you remove the wires you know where to put them back. Than check again to make sure the power is turned off. I don't trust anyone - I always check with my voltmeter before I touch anything. There's no guarantee that the previous do-it-yourself'er who installed the tub himself did it right. 240 Volts is not something you want going through your body. The heater relay board is a little less expensive than a "universal" heater. A Hotsprings heater is 2-3 times more expensive than the universal. It's more work to put in the heater, I'd expect a higher install charge than for the relay board.
  4. According to Jacuzzi, the clear ray bulb needs to be replaced after 1 year. If you're past a year, you may not be getting the protection that Jacuzzi intended. The fact that the problem is recent certainly goes hand in hand with an expired clear ray bulb. (Although some people will argue to the death that ozone doesn't do anything.) Most manufacturers recommend a pre-filter if you have well water. It's supposed to remove minerals. Bleach is sometimes used as a shock for cleaning the water after heavy use or in place of dichlor or chlorine. There are some recipes on this web site for doing that. We (meaning my service company) doesn't recommend using bleach as a regular sanitizing regimen. Dichlor is made for that purpose, I don't know that it makes sense to try to save $150 a year using a product not intended for your $9000 hot tub. But that's just my opinion. Hot Tub Itch, as a medical condition, is an infection in the hair follicles caused by bacteria in your hot tub water. Many people also have skin irritation from Chlorine or Bromine and may use the description "hot tub itch," not meaning the medical condition. Any idea which applies to you?
  5. Thanks HS Official. The web site is telling me the page isn't available for my account.
  6. Smart idea. I'll have to get one of those to throw in the van. Haven't had any complaints yet about gurgling, but for $2 it pays to be prepared.
  7. If you press the JETS button, the relay's activate, the pumps run then stop, and you are still getting voltage coming out of the relay's, then something in the pump must be causing it to turn off. Is this a 115VAC or 220VAC pump? You could try connecting the pump directly to an outlet outside the hot tub. About half the times I do that, a 230VAC pump will run from a 115VAC outlet. I wouldn't do it for more than a few seconds, but it would be a way to test the motor outside of the spa electronics to verify it's a problem before buying a new pump. Of course, if it's a 115VAC pump, you'll know for sure.
  8. Coloradan - what is this sprinkler valve you're talking about? Do you have a photo or link? I don't know anything about sprinkler shrub sprayers, so I'm not sure what to look for.
  9. Aad, I'm confused - do you have a pressure switch? Most hot tubs expect to see that circuit open when they turn on. Then the tub waits to see it close when the water starts moving. So merely jumping the switch may be an issue. I'm not positive about how an older Watkins circuit board reads the circuit. If you mean the pressure switch connector on the board is jumpered, then remove the jumper, restart the spa, after the circ pump starts, than replace the jumper. That's only to test the spa. Running your hot tub without a pressure switch is a really bad idea. You may also have a bad pressure switch. It's a far cheaper item to replace then a circuit board. I've never seen a bad heater relay board that didn't have burns or scorching somewhere. I"m not saying it's not your problem, just that it would be the first time I've heard of the board going bad without being visibly damaged. I just thought of a customer we had last year with a Hot Springs tub. Old heater was bad and we replaced it. After about a month he called and said it wasn't heating. My first question is "are your filters clean" to which he said "yes." When I got to his house, his filters looked clean, as white as virgin snow. But the filter that sat on the circ pump fitting was full of clear sticky goo (shampoo and/or sunscreen). When I took that filter out, the hot tub started to immediately heat. So, try your tub with the filter removed, just to make sure that it not only looks clean, but that it's not clogged. I know you may have tried some of these ideas already, I'm just trying to save you buying an expensive circuit board until you've eliminated the weird stuff I've encountered that will only cost pennies to check.
  10. What kind of spa and circ pump do you have? Is it a 3/4 mini circ pump or a full sized 1.5" circ pump? Typically, the circ pump is not plumbed to the jets, a bad circ pump shouldn't affect the jet pressure. Unless you have a full sized pump that runs on low speed for heating. You said you disassembled the pumps and your jets have lower pressure now. You may have not reassembled them properly. What kind of pumps are they and how much did you disassemble them? Any leaks at the pumps you disassembled? Are all the jets affected by low pressure, or only a few? The jet groupss are probably controlled by a diverter valve; there may be sock stuck in that channel. Jets are usually plumbed to individual manifolds which have 3/4" hoses, which would seem like a good place for some cloth to get stuck. Finally, when you put the pressure switch in, did you calibrate it? Sometimes they come from the factory out of adjustment, or some spas that have the pressure switch on the suction side instead of the discharge side require a slight adjustment to make them work.
  11. Can you post a photo? "Leak at the bezel" doesn't give us a lot of information.
  12. I hope this isn't a stupid question, I'm trying to find links to this info but it's either so obvious I'm staring right at it or so well hidden I'll never find it. Is there an FAQ or help page for the pool & spa forum? I posted a few pictures back in January without realizing I am limited to 500KB and can't post any more photos. I'm trying to figure out how to manage my account so I can post pictures if someone needs to see something and I feel like I can help. I realize I can add links to other websites images, I'm just wondering if 1) there's a way to remove the photos I've already posted and 2) imbed links so the images show within a post without using up my attachment quota. Thanks, Dave
  13. When the pumps turn off, are the relay's still closed?
  14. >> Probably because the old (and new) heater had no connector to connect to the main board. There are two holes on the top edge of the heater. One is for a high limit sensor and the other is for the thermostat, and they should lead to the circuit board. If the hi limit is bad, the previous owner must have disconnected it and jumpered the connection on the board. Not a great idea, especially if the circ pump dies, the heater burns up and catches the interior of the spa on fire, or just melts a bunch of stuff and causes a lot of damage. Also, if you're in the tub and the heater continues heating beyond it's normal safe temperature and burns you, although that's probably much less likely. >>> If you DO have 220 volts across both hot wires coming from the house, then next measure the voltage across both heating element pins. You should see 220 volts. If you do not, then the circuit board is faulty and will need to be replaced or sent to us for repair" That may be an oversimplification. In the USA, you get 220 volts because there are two 110V legs, one comes to each terminal of the heater. If you're not getting 220V, what are you getting? If you're getting 110V, then one of those legs is not getting power, which could be due to a hi limit sensor, flow switch, or the circuit board not calling for heat. I only see three wires going to your spa, in a 220V installation in the USA, I'd expect at least four. I'm not familiar with how things are wired in Europe, so I'd better leave any discussion on that to an electrician. Yours heater relay board is a 17 year old board, the newer replacement boards in the USA have the relay's on the front. It's a very easy board to remove and inspect the back to see if any of the relay's are burned. Remove the aluminum rack around it and there are mounting screws in the corners of the board. The ground screw is also a mounting screw. The heater relay is a common breakdown item for Watkins control packs. Just make sure you light up the connector in the upper right properly when you put it back in. Did I mention to turn off the power before removing to inspect it?
  15. There's probably a venturi fitting where the 3/8" ozone line goes into the plumbing. That venturi usually has a check valve as well. Just google "ozone venturi hot tub" and you'll get dozen of web sites with photos, instructions and parts for sale. I wouldn't blow compressed air into the line, I'd trace it and figure out where the venturi is.