ScubaDave

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About ScubaDave

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    Spa Savant

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    www.jerseyhottubrepair.com

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    New Jersey
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  1. Two thoughts: Jet 2 is often a single speed pump. If that's the case, you should get a cycle of ON- OFF. ON-OFF. If it's a two speed pump and the high speed is out, your cycle would be ON - OFF - OFF. ON - OFF - OFF. In other words, you would have to press the button two times to get it to come on at low speed. If you're sure you have a two speed pump, I would swap the red and black wires for the pump on the circuit board (essentially connecting the high speed on the pump to the low speed circuit, and the low speed channel of the pump to the high speed circuit on the circuit board). If that gave you a high speed only condition, than the assumption would be that the circuit board control of high speed is not working, probably a bad relay. If that didn't give you high speed, but you still had low speed, that would be an indication the problem is at the pump, since both channels on the pump work correctly as long as it's getting power from the circuit board. As to the loss of power at your jets (I'm assuming you mean the Jet 1 controlled jets) I would first check the diverter valves and see if one of them is closed, or moved from where you normally keep them. If JETS1 is plumbed to two groups of jets and the diverter valve is centered, you would get equal power at both groups. Move the diverter valve left or right and you would change the balance of power. You can also loose power due to a damaged impeller, or obstructions in the plumbing. Does the pump "sound" "normal?"
  2. JohnFowler: You should put your question as a separate topic to attract more responses. How do you know it overheats? Does it give an error message? What's the message? What's the temperature when that occurs?
  3. We usually put silicone around the back of the fixture, on the cabinet side, so when you tighten the mounting nut, the silicone seals it on. But on the wet side, it's just gasket and the light fixture.
  4. Of course, if water is leaking through the overlay, repairing the circuit board isn't enough - you need a new overlay or it's just going to get wet again.
  5. I'm surprised you have to replace "all" of the jets after 7 years, but if they're popping out and breaking, you gotta do it. Bromine is less caustic than chlorine. If the tub's working fine and this is the first money you're putting into it after 7 years for a little brittle plastic, the parts are cheap enough that I'd say whatever you're doing is okay. I guess you could call me an "avid" scuba diver, been doing it for about 30 years. I live in New Jersey and do most of my diving out here, although I try to get to Mexico or the Caribbean each winter. I find the North East shipwrecks a much more interesting dive than looking at pretty colored fishes. There's a small clique of us hot tub repairmen/scuba divers in my neck of the woods. Most of the other guys also dive swimming pools to repair leaks. Right now, I've got plenty of hot tubs to take care of.
  6. That's a hard question to answer because they use different types of air controls. You probably have a removable handle mounted on top of a screw on cap. There's an o-ring under that. You could conceivably buy a new valve and just use the "guts" to replace what you have. But I wouldn't bother unless there was a problem with your air. The fact that your jets are falling apart after only 6 years tells me you must love chlorine. To have all your jets fail in 6 years is a little more than "normal wear and tear."
  7. Dan, is the HEAT indicator lit (or do you have the heat icon displayed on your control panel)?
  8. You can try silicone or construction cement, but the best way to repair is to replace the entire assembly. They are relatively inexpensive: http://www.spadepot.com/Light-Wall-Fitting-Assembly-5-Face-3-58-Hole--P6068C213.aspx You have to know how large the hole is that the light is mounted in. 5" is a commons size. To replace, drain the tub below the level of the light, unscrew the nut on the back of the fixture (easier said than done) and replace. The gasket goes between the light housing and the wet side of the tub body. The real trick is finding an angle you can work at, as the lamp housings are often in difficult to reach places or behind other parts of the tub. I've had to remove pumps and insulation to replace the housings in the past.
  9. I understand what you're saying -- you had to "fake" water flow to get the heater to turn on. I would disconnect the pump from your circuit board, and put your voltmeter on that connection and see if the board is sending voltage to the pump. If not, your issue is in the circuit board. It you can turn the voltage on and off by pressing the JET button, than the problem is either the pump or the wire harness, but most likely the pump. (I've seen one bad pump wire harness in about 1000 hot tubs, wires don't tend to fail too often. A mouse skeleton stuck to the chewed up wire is a good indication of a bad wire) Have you tried testing the pump outside the hot tub? Just run a wire from an outlet to the spade connectors on the pump. I find that in about 75% of the time, a 230VAC pump will turn on if fed 115VAC, I just wouldn't run it like that for a long time. -OR- if you have a two pump hot tub, just swap the wires from the PUMP1 position on the circuit board to the PUMP2 position. All you want to do is see if the pump turns on. I've never seen a transformer affect a pump, but you can check it easy enough. Look for 115(or 230) volts going into the transformer, and either 12V or 5V coming out. Most hot tubs use 12V. Sometimes you can stick your voltmeter probes into the back of the transformer plug. Sometimes you need to stick a safety pin or paperclip into there to make an extension to test with your voltmeter.
  10. He may have adjusted the dip switches to turn off the heater when your jets are on, which wouldn't be a bad thing since you only have a 32 amp circuit. If that's the case, he may have just forgotten to mention it, or figured you wouldn't notice.
  11. The pressure switch doesn't turn the pump on. It checks for water pressure, then turns the heater on. If you have a 24 hr circ pump, it should always be on. If it's not, that doesn't indicate a temp sensor issue. If your spa uses PUMP1 for both heating and jets, it should turn on when you press the button on the topside. Since you hear a relay clicking when you press the JETS button, (I assume that's the button you said you're pressing), my first assumption would be that the topside is telling the circuit board to turn on the pump and the circuit board is closing the relay to send power to the pump. Based on what you said, and the fact that your pump was "serviced," (whatever that means), my first action would be to test the pump. To do that, first turn off the breaker providing power to the hot tub. then: Check the fuses for continuity, sometimes a pump is on a separate fuse. You must remove them from the circuit board to test. Put a screwdriver on the shaft and see if you can manually turn it. Power up the pump independently of the hot tub. Re-check your wiring. Is it possible the pump is connected to the wrong plug on the circuit board? I"m not clear on what you mean when you say you "hear the heater engage" when you turn the spa on. Are you saying you hear water boiling in the heater tube? Or are you saying you hear a relay click on? If so, how do you know it's the heater relay?
  12. A couple of thoughts: Does the hot tub have a blower? It may also be called a "bubbler," "Turbo" or something else. All it would do is add bubbles without the jets being turned on. The blower sucks air in from outside the tub and if the air is cold, will cool the water. You say you have a Balboa control panel, so I'm assuming it has a Balboa circuit board. When your electrician connected the hot tub at its new location, he may have messed with the dip switches on the circuit board. In the USA, most hot tubs are connected to either 40 or 50 AMP circuits, which can support both a heater and your jet pumps. Now that your installation is at 32 AMP, the tub may be set up to turn the heater off when the pump(s) come on. It's also common to allow the heater to run at low speed, but not high speed. Or to allow the heater to run when JETS1 is turned on, but not if JETS2 is turned on. That is all adjustable from the dip switches on the circuit board. The fact that the tub heats properly when not in use certainly suggests the problem is how its set-up or how you operate it, not the electronics, because the only difference between your tub heating and cooling is your presence in the water. I don't want to unfairly criticize your electrician, but being a "Qualified electrician" doesn't mean they know anything about hot tubs. It just means they know how to handle wiring. I've seen a few "experts" make mistakes with tubs.
  13. A heater relay board is a common problem, although I've never seen one work intermittently, usually it's either they're burned up or they're not. Still, before spending the money, I'd always recommend checking the voltage coming out of the board and going to the heater, rather than just assuming it's the problem. There are still plenty of issues that could prevent heating.
  14. Maybe these folks can help you: http://www.a1spacontrol.com/
  15. Did you just get this hot tub? The reason I ask is that the Ready light is illuminated when the hot tub is at the temperature you set it to. It turns off when you increase the temperature setting and will turn on again when it gets to the temperature (or within about 2 degrees of it). So, the fact that it goes off when you try to raise the temperature is normal. Use a separate thermometer to check the tub temperature. We want to see if the tub is reading the water temperature correctly. If not, that's a sign of a sensor problem. Do you see the word "TEMP" on your screen? If so, you have the temperature lock on. If the tub is calling for heat and the heater isn't heating it up, it's time to open up the control box and get your voltmeter out to see where the electricity circuit is stopped.