Dixit

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About Dixit

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  1. Got it, we drained about 90% of the pool last night and its back in filling up mode with fresh water. http://img215.images.../heaterside.jpg Yeap the above link shows the check valve on the discharge side of the edge pump. Its all the way right. No, if its in pool mode that one actuator that is on the return side closes off the spa return side so no water when in pool mode is returned into the spa. Only way that happens is if the Auqalink is put in spa mode then that valve flips 180 and all water returns to spa. The same happens to the other actuator valve on the intake side (where it only pulls from spa when in spa mode only). Which pipe we talking about? You mean that one that has a PVC end cap on it? http://img341.images...484/intakeu.jpg That one that is capped off is in the 1 oclock position when looking at the red circle. Im not sure what that is. I thought it could be a drain pipe for if and when I decide to go DE or Sand filter and need a drain line. Yeap agree there and can confirm we got that part working. When Spa mode is kicked on it activates both of the Jandy actuators and they both turn 180 degrees. Before this only one would but I fixed that so now both kick on when Spa mode is enabled and both return back to original position for pool mode. No that waterfall is on the other side of the spa which faces the pool. Its the waterfall that is pictures here http://img854.images...90/dsc5075e.jpg on the top right of the picture. That valve only controls the output to that water feature off the spa side, not the edge/spillage into the basin. Only way there I can think of is to put the Aqualink in Spa mode (which then main pump takes over) AND run the spillage/edge pump to have it circulate water from the basin back into the spa (which then should also get filtered and chlorinated by the main pump). Thats the only way since the basin side is in no way connected to the main pool pump. Only way to get it to share the pool side is to get it into the spa somehow (using the edge pump) and then let the main pump bring it back into the pool or just filter it there. That same picture you linked earlier is all the returns. That check valve is on the left of that picture is the check valve for the spa return side. It has two paths for the spa jet return. One is directly off that Jandy actuator which would flip 180 when in spa mode. Right where the text says "Spa Return Jet" directly under that a pipe goes straight down in the ground to the spa jets. The other method is valve right after the one missing the handle, that could divert it back to the spa jets as well. But in theory that should never be adjusted. That valve (bottom of the picture almost center) basically can add water to the spa from the pool if its low. Then on the intake side of the pump one could do the opposite by sucking additional water from the spa to add water into the pool.As far as another actuator controlling the floor popups, I dont think one is needed. I think the only return in the pool besides that water fall is the in floor popups and that venturi jet off the Leaf B Gone. I guess now that I think about it one could put an electronic valve there and hit that to turn off the waterfall and let the floor cleaner go full tilt. But not sure how you do that with the Aqualink, there is no "clean mode". Its either Pool Mode, Spa Mode, Spa Drain, or Spa Fill. So I might have to jury rig something or look more into how the aqualink works. A 5way (non electronic) water driven Polaris Caretaker valve system. I dismantled that because I think the gears inside need to be rebuilt, so waiting for that to arrive in a few days. Well initially I got an AIR FLOW SW error. So then hotwired the AIR FLOW sensor. Still didnt light for more than 1sec. Then noticed I was barely getting any exhaust air from the top exhaust. So then opened the LX400 and took the blower motor off and guess what? The entire fan blade part of it is gone. The rust litterally left nothing but just the bottom plate of the fan attached to the shaft. So...... That is done for sure. Yes the blower turns on, but with no fan blade, its worthless. And thanks to Jandy, you cannot replace just the fan blade part, because its sitting inside the metal housing which is welded shut. So for a $5 missing fan blade, I need to buy a flipping $350 blower. Awesome!
  2. Here is a link that shows the only outlets on the walls and I labelled them. Right now the pool is being drained and as you can see the drain on the side near the palm tree has nothing coming out of it even though the pool return valve is open. http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/1228/poolreturn.jpg
  3. Man that formatting codes are tough to make it readable but I will try. So first off yes the Pool Frog is coming out and a Jandy AquaPure Ei 35 is on order. The heater valve bypass was in bypass mode just cause we were fooling aroud with the valves to figure stuff out, when in full use it will be in the off position to divert all water through the Jandy LX400. We are waiting on some parts (blower motor) for the Jandy LX400 before we can fire that back up. As far as your next part, the spa return is on a 3way tee. That actuator controls when its open or closed. When the AquaLink is set to pool mode it diverts all return to the pool (and pickup/inlet comes only from the pool). If I open that partly, then water would go into the spa and evenually overflow into the basin. Which is not connected back to the pool, so then eventually that would overflow into the grass. Only way to solve that to have the spa and pool get fresh chrlorinated water is to have the inlet on the main pump (which has an actuator for the spa pickup) opened a crack as well as the return into the spa opened a crack. But then you dont know for a fact if its picking up so much and dumping the same amount back into the spa, otherwise you could run into a situation where it over fills the spa or starts draining it over time. I dont understand your comment about the 3/4" and negative edge. Just to make sure, that spillage pump only pumps water from the basin drains and returns it back into the spa at the bottom (near your feat) through what looks like two 1.5" openings. So that is completely independant of the pool or waterfall that spills into the pool (from the side of the spa). As far as your comment about where the spa/basin could overflow, that should never happen. After playing around with it, when you put it in spa mode off the AquaLink, the two actuators flip 180, causing the inlet for the main pump to pickup only from the spa drains (not the basin or the pool). Then the other actuator causes it to divert all return to the spa jets, nothing else. So that way there is no overflow into the basin (unless 6 people get in there and some overflows). Good point about when using the spa to make sure the spillage/basin pump is off, your right if you using the spa and its heated water, you are causing all the heated water to flow into the basin as well and lose heat, so thats pointless. And yes the catch basin does have its own drains like I mentioned before, both drains go directly to that 2nd spillage pump, and there is no valves on return side, it returns it directly to those two 1.5" outlets at the bottom of the spa as I mentioned earlier. The catch basin pictures did show low water, those were taken by the realtor photographer. Its been fixed now (well actually as I type this I just drained the entire spa and basin and now beginning to dump about 80% of the pool water due to 300PM+ CYA, dont get me started on that, thanks previous owner). So Im going to fill that back upto the mid tile level on the basin. So remember the spillover into the basin should never happen on just the main pump operation unless you (well me) is purposely causing it to do that by equalizing water into the basin or taking water away from it to bring it back into the pool. So the returns on pool mode I feel should only be either that water feature on the side of the spa going into the pool, or the in floor cleaner. There is one 3/4" nozzle on the side of the pool, but I have never felt water come out of there. There is also that Leaf-B-Gone system by Polaris that has that venturi nozzle which is blasting water out of it to create a vacuum effect for the 3rd drain where its supposed to suck up debris and throw it into that large strainer basket in the Leaf-B-Gone canister. So that one 3/4" nozzle/outlet on the pool seems like its either not connected or plugged. And lastly there is an air blower. Look at that first link picture, its all the way to the left sitting up on that 2" pipe. Dixit
  4. Sure thing. Here is the pictures of my equipment and piping (I tried to get all of it and label it based on what we figured out and whats labelled on the pipe itself). This link below shows the Main pool pump with the intake side and valves and the Jandy CL580 filter http://img341.images...484/intakeu.jpg This shows a closup of the intake side of the main pump and the valves, I labelled them. http://img259.images...takecloseup.jpg This shows the output side piping off the main pump going into the CL580 and coming out into whats called a Pool Frog (which Im going to remove) and then piping heads toward the Jandy LX400 heater http://img94.imagesh...93/outputlb.jpg This is the view of the piping coming off the Pool Frog and showing how the heater side is setup. The right side of that picture where it shows a 2nd pump and its piping, its standalone. That trench off the spa spillage has two drains. That goes straight to the intake of this 2nd pump, and the output goes straight into the spa bottom which causes the spa to overflow and have that spillage feature for the golf green side view. http://img215.images.../heaterside.jpg Here is a good closeup and labelled of the return side (coming off the LX400 heater), this is where it starts to gets complicated but not too bad. It comes off the LX400 and heads straight toward the electronic valve that only diverts all returns back to the spa jet side only if the spa is activated from the Aqualink. Otherwise as pictures its in pool mode diverting all water towards the other side which as you can see first heads toward a valve (no handle) for the infloor pool cleaner, then heads to another valve that goes back to the spa or as pictured diverts it to the pool. That valve I believe is mainly to add water (if the spa is low) into the spa. Then lastly you see it heads to the last valve that shows either Water Feature or Pool Return. This valve now is the one Im talking about if you block off the water feature side as pictures, it will divert it to the pool return, but then pressure jumps from 22psi to 35-40psi on the CL580 and main pump through the clear plastic skimmer view seems to show water stopped moving. So that one seems like its either clogged or there is no return (which im starting to believe there isnt truly one since there is no real wall nozzles like I have in my 40k gal pool in my other house). http://img594.images...76/returnsl.jpg Hope this gives you a good insight of the plumbing. After taking these pictures and testing the water (again just bought this house and its a chlorine based pool), the CYA is through the roof, my Taylor 2006 cant even read it, So I estimate its 150-200s. So Im going to have to flipping drain 3/4 of the pool tomorrow and refill with clean water. Then while Im at that, Im going to just remove that Pool Frog thing, clean that up, and then coming off the LX400 going toward the return valves, Im going to just install a Chlorine Generator there and convert this into a Salt Water based pool like my other one, less hassle in my eyes. But thats a side topic. Dixit
  5. I just bought this house and I have a pool in my other house which is a 40k gallon salt water generator based setup. This new house we got has what I estimate a 25k gallon pool/spa combo. It has these in floor heads for cleaning. Has this water feature that comes from the side of the spa. Has two skimmers (deep and shallow side). Has two main drains. Also has this 3rd drain (looks slightly different) in between the two main ones. Here is a shot of the top view of the pool to get an idea of it. Now on the plumbing side there is two electronic controlled Jandy valves that let the main pool filter pump basically divert all intake from the spa and return into spa when you hit the SPA mode on the spa button near the Spa (4 button AquaLink button on the stone). Then there are valves to allow the water to go the water feature or pool return (or both by putting the valve in the middle). There is also a valve for the floor cleaner. Now here the problem I notice, I can turn the water feature on no issues. If I turn the water feature off and say divert all return to say the "Pool Return" basically nothing happens, its almost like that line is capped off or plugged because pressure in my cartridge filter will go from 22psi to 35psi and pump basically stops flowing water (comes to a dead stop if you looking at the top of the clear plastic pump skimmer basket). So its almost like there is no return even though the permanent marker on the pipe says "pool return". However looking inside the pool there seems to be only ONE 3/4" nozzel that looks like a return on the wall. That just done seem right when you got 2" piping on the plumbing side. My other house with the 40k gal pool has about 6 of those 3/4" nozzles around the pool walls and steps. In this new house, there is one more, but that nozzle is definitely for the automatic pool float filler. Besides that there is no other return nozzles I can see (other than the one I mentioned before) That one also never seems to feel like there is water coming out of it, even if I divert all return to "pool return" (where the pump acts like it stopped flowing). If I tell it to divert all water to the pool in floor cleaner, that seems to randomly operate, sometimes the heads go up, other times i wait there 10mins nothing pops up. Yesterday we did that and next thing we know water started spewing out the side of the band clamp on the 5way Polaris Caretaker valve body. So we opened that up and all seems fine to me. Put it back on and just left it as is for now, we going to remove the top half of the 5way valve body and open it up internally to see if any of the gears are jacked up or not. So right now basically it seems like only return is this water feature. Or the pool in floor heads (which I dont know why it doesnt work 90% of the time). Then lastly you see the picture above where on the top left you see two skimmer covers, well the lower one on the top left is the deep skimmer, the one above it is not a skimmer, its seems to be what I believe are known as these "Leaf be gone" systems. And I think that 3rd drain (in the center of the two mains) is connected to that leaf be gone system. Because inside there is this clear cover you pop off and inside that is this 1ft deep fine mesh basket. Let me know if you all have any insight on the pool return side (Im beginning to think I have no actual returns in the pool except the water feature or the in floor system). Here are two more pictures of the spa spillage (basically a nice water feature that faces the green of a golf course).
  6. I have a Tiger River (Watkins) Hot Tub. Its about a 450gal Hot tub. We bought the house a year ago and it came with it, the hot tub needed some parts (like a new heater, new check valve, etc) which we got and got it up and running. Last year worked out pretty good. Now I found the manual online for this Hot Tub and inside the manual it states not to use Bromine or Floaters because they claim it can discolor the acrylic. My problem (well more of a pain to me) is ive been using the Dichlor it says to only use. But issue is basically I need to keep adding like 1-2 tsp of it every day to keep the water balanced since its fast disolving and disipates quickly. Im not always around to keep doing this, so talking to a spa/hot tub dealer he said buy a floater and put some 1" bromine tablets in there. So I got some. But before I put them in noticed the manual stated what I said above. Is this really true that I cant use it? If so I guess Im stuck to having to put a tsp or two every day religiously (which when I travel is not happening). Can I safely use Bromine despite what the manual says? Details again on my spa is that its a Tiger River 450 gal spa. About 12yrs old. It has a working ozonator (which we got working). Has a recirc pump (just fixed that) that runs 24hrs a day which is used to make sure the heater can be run and keeps the water temp consistent. That recirc pump claims it moves 6000gal per 24hr period. Its one of these Silent Flo 5000 series pump. Any advice on if I can truly and safely use the bromine would be appreciated. If I can use it, I think it would save me some pain as well as keep my water more balanced as opposed to my dichlor setup now where I cant always be around every day to drop tsp or two in there. Dixit