ChiefQM

This afternoon, I changed the flow switch. I removed the new switch from the PVC tee fitting and swapped it with the old switch, ensuring the arrows on the switch lined up with the arrow on the PVC tee fitting in the hot tub guts. As an aside, I had to move the power box to get access to the flow switch - when I did so, I discovered there was no grounding wire on the main pump. I remedied that before closing the tub up. At any rate, I hooked up the wires to the flow switch and plugged the hot tub back in. The FL1 signal flashed merrily at me, thumbing it's figurative nose at me. I tapped the body of the PVC tee fitting gently with a screwdriver, and turned the switch gently in the tee fitting to see if that made a difference. Nope. All the while, I was running the main pump on high. The FL1 light came back on after a few seconds. So I give up. Looks like, in the absence of a fix from my sage forum-mates, I will be replacing the motherboard.

After my thermometer indicated the temp had dropped to below 100 F, I plugged the tub back in. The LED display showed 99, then the heater light kicked on. The demand was set to 102 and the heater light went off when it read 102. So far, so good When I was putting the cover back on, vibration from my electric drill/screw driver made the dreaded FL1 light flash. I pulled the cover and pushed and pulled on the wire that goes up to the control panel with no effect. Next I tapped on the top of the Flow switch and the light promptly went off. Soooo. Tomorrow I change the flow switch with the one I bought and do my best to insulate the switch and housing against vibration.

I have a 2003 Jacuzzi J-310 that I have operated for about 4 years. After initially replacing the temperature sensor (twice now), the heater, the flow switch (about a year ago) and most recently, the control panel, I have an interesting problem. I get the FL1 flashing signal on the LED display, but when I run the pump on high, it goes out. I have purchased a new flow switch and had intended to install it, but as the nights go by when the switch operates normally, I had deferred replacing the switch. Recently, I noticed that if I replaced the cover when I was done using it, and if the cover dropped onto the edges of the hot tub, the FL1 signal would flash - fixed, as always, but running the pump on high for a few minutes. Sometimes, none of the buttons on the old control panel would work until I smacked my fist down on the edge. I replaced the control panel and didn't experience any issues for a short time. Recently, just as an experiment, I smacked my hand down on the edge of the tub near the control panel. The FL1 signal flashed on. It still went away if I ran the pump on high. Last night, as I got out of the tub, the FL1 signal came on and I smacked my fist on the edge of the tub. The LED display read 59 and the heater light came on. I covered the tub and left it be until tonight when I went out to the tub. The LED display read 87 and the heater light was on. I removed the cover and put my hand in the water, it had to be 120 degrees. I turned off the hot tub, waited a minute or so, and turned it back on. The LED display read 100, the demand temperature, then it immediately went to the - - - display, indicating the "Watchdog" software had been activated. I left it open for about an hour to cool, then unplugged the tub and plugged it in again. The LED display read 100, the demand, then started counting down to 87. Okay. Has anybody had a similar issue? I cleaned and tightened all the slide-on connections on the circuit board this morning (FL air tends to corrode everything) but it's still to hot to plug it back in to test (110F). Before I pull the trigger on buying another circuit board, any help would be appreciated.

I have a 2003 J-310 convertible (220v/110v) spa set up for 110v,without a cover (it's on order and is temporarily covered with plywood and a tarp). I got the spa on the cheap and only hooked it up temporarily (12/3 wire, but to a 110v outlet instead of hardwired; I wasn't going to go to the expense if it didn't work. When I first plugged it in, I got a FL2 code. I had a service man check it out, he changed the temp sensor and it functioned normally, but he said it's going to eventually need a new circulation pump, and he said the ozonator needed to be replaced. The water temp showed 71 degrees, about what I would expect for February in Florida. Over the next couple of days, the temperature rose to the mid-80s but got no warmer. I hardwired the connection and the heater took the temp to 104. After one use, the temp steadily dropped until it is back in the mid-80s. I checked the filter (clear) and made sure the filtration was still F-3. The recirc pump chugs along, and the pump works on both levels, although the heater indicator light kicks off when the high pump is on. When the pump goes off, the heater indicator light comes back on after a few seconds. What should I be looking for? Thanks in advance for help.