Dr. Spa

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About Dr. Spa

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    near San Francisco
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  1. The only one there I'd do is test the GFCI monthly....as is indicated on it's label. ( maybe " Disinfectant/pH controller" if that's something the manufacturer of it indicates)
  2. STOP reading and go SHOPPING. You can read all you want, and you'll NEVER know what any actual spa feels like. Sure, you'll hear many many peoples different opinions, but ONLY YOU will know what feels right for YOU.
  3. I believe that's a 10k ohm thermistor.
  4. Our time and helpfulness is already here. Read the "stickies", here; http://www.poolspaforum.com/forum/index.php?/forum/13-hot-tub-water-chemistry/
  5. You'll want to swim at a much cooler temperature that you'll "hot tub" in...and you'll want to hot tub at a much higher temp than swim. Actually, if you try just soaking in the same temp you swim in, you'll probably die of hypothermia in about 2 hours.
  6. First thing would be to determine if in fact it's a problem with the motor. More than likely it's not, and you'd be wasting $500 on a new one.
  7. "I have the control unit completely removed from the the spa and am reading continuity between 1 and 2, so the heating element doesn't come into play." This is not correct. Sorry, not even close, as the two have almost nothing in common. Not only is it possible, but in most cases normal, for a heater element to have the correct amount of resistance (ohm reading), but STILL short out to the water, causing the GFCI to trip. Once the remove water as a factor, the GFI wont trip. Having continuity between 1 and 2 is also completely normal and really doesn't tell you much. There's a transformer in the system and as long as the line side of it is intact, this will give you a continuity reading.
  8. Most likely you have a bad heater element. You can get the correct ohm reading, but it can still be shorting out to the water. Try disconnecting BOTH wires from the element and see what happens then.
  9. Old school. NICE! I have a similar set up. My recommendation for a more modern controller would be an Intermatic Multiwave; http://www.intermatic.com/en/products/pool_and_spa/electronic_controls/multiwave
  10. " There was continuity between line 1 and 2, but nothing between the legs and the neutral/ground." Yeah, removed from the spa and empty of water, it would NEVER show the short. Most likely you have a bad heating element.
  11. You need to put an amp meter on the heater. If it's getting voltage and not pulling any amps, you have a bad element (yes, new parts can be bad from the get go)
  12. You paid someone to fix it...It isn't fixed. They owe you your money BACK. ANY small claims court judge will agree.
  13. Need a picture of the spa side control panel.
  14. "when I totally block the one "good" drain, the other one still barely pulls anything". That would tend to indicate a problem. Any possibility the screen is clogged (and difficult to see)?
  15. Are you ABSOLUTELY SURE it hasn't always been this way? It's not necessarily abnormal for the vast majority of the suction to be through only one drain.