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About mrwrick

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    Spa Savant

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  1. Hi, I have a 93 Hot Spring Classic. Went through all the heater tests you have done, then finally found 2 other things: I pinched the exposed capillary tube for the new thermostat when juggling the control box and after replacing the new thermostat with another new one I found I had a bad heater relay and had replaced it with the wrong one. Alot of missteps but eventually got it going. I know the Soveriegn model is different from the Classsic, but the voltage is similar and I bet the essential heater/jet circuitry is also. Mine is set up for 110, so it will either heat or run jets. The relay that went bad was the one that alternates between heater and jets and I HAD REPLACED IT WITH THE HEATER-ONLY UNIT. (sorry, inadvertent caps) I had replaced the lower priced relay and of course I needed the more expensive one. So, I think you need to test more components in the heater circuit and you will likely find the problem is not the heater.
  2. Still there.i just got a tech reply by email.
  3. Dave, another question to follow up your suggestion. I see an Aqua-Flow XP2 at 115 V, but rated at 14.4 amps on high speed. It is a good price, but I have to check my motor's amperage. I understand your idea of wiring the pump to operate at the high speed as a single speed pump, and that amperage is key. The other XP2's I see listed are for 230 V, though they are rated to draw lower amps at high speed, from 6 to 8.5. I can replace the Wavemaster 7000 version 1 for about $700. The Aqua-Flow XP2 is only $200. I understand that fitment will be the issue if AI go with the Aqua-Flow over the Wavemaster, which is set up as a direct replacement for my serial number and model of Hot Spring Classic spa. If you have other information to help me understand the different needs and options I will appreciate it. THANKS, CHAD.
  4. I am intrigued by this post since my spa gets left alone for weeks at a time also. It is set up with a 24/7 recirc pump for filtration. I use bromine pucks in a floater and an ozone generator. The spa clarity is perfect, the water feels fine, but i have noticed a low pH reading, actually very low, acidic level. My jet pump had a small leak due to an old o-ring, but recently it is not working at all when turned on, just hums. If it is the acidity that corroded the pump or motor I need to make a change after I spend $700 for a new jet pump.You did not mention any use of ozone. Now I am wondering if it is the ozone that is continually being pumped into the water that has caused the aCIDICTY (stupid caps). Any ideas on this? Thanks Now I am off to look up the Gecko in.clear system. This forum is great.
  5. Thank you for the extra tips. My plan is to remove the old pump and see what I can figure out it is suffering from before i buy a new one. If it just in need of seals and a cleaning up of shaft and brushes that is what I will try. If it is corroded from acidic water imbalance it will be replaced. But, ouch, the sticker shock is powerful. I appreciate your recommendation of the alternate pump.
  6. Thanks Dave, good advice. I plan to get replacement info from Hot Spring Official and will follow your cues about removal. I know it will be tough.i tried to loosen the upper connection when I did work and it is tight. I will try some strap wrenches you get leverage in that tight space, leaving cutting the coupling as last resort.
  7. Good looking work. Gioes one ideas for more projects with concrete.
  8. Thanks Mike. Will do. Chad
  9. My hope is that the Hot Spring tech staff will reply. My 1993 Classic has a frozen Wavemaster 7000. Power turns on, it hums, but will not turn. The spa is a 110 model. What replacement Wavemaster pump should I buy? Thanks
  10. Hi, I always get great help on this forum. You have assisted me to keep 2 Hot Spring Classics working for extra years. Now my 1993 Classic needs Jet Pump help. It is a version 1 Wavemaster 7000, single speed pump. My spa is 110 (115) volts. The pump has had a leak from the main impeller (large, banded) O-ring. I was unable to get the new ring to stay in place to join the 2 halves, so I left the old ring in, to be replaced later. Then, after good operation for perhaps 40 cycles over time ( several months) the jet pump made a noise that sounded like grinding. I thought bearing, so I stopped using it, pending a complete spa drain and maintenance. Last time I tried to turn it on to hear the operation again it hummed but no jets. I quickly turned it off. Heater and ozone flow are fine, so spa is clear and clean. However, I have had a gradual decrease in TA and pH to very acidic levels. This is a bromine spa with 24/7 ozone through circulation pump. I understand bromine is acidic, so I understand why my water has turned. It goes untended for weeks at a time when I am not present to test or correct. Now I suspect my old Wavemaster has succumbed to the corrosive acidic water and has frozen up. The circuitry may be OK since it hummed when switch was activated. I hope. My concern is to be able to get some diagnostic help and guidance for a source to replace the whole pump and connections (I will probably have to cut old 2 inch PVC pipes to get it all out. The pump disconnects from large impeller housing by loosening the steel band, but the connection collars on the pipes do not turn.) I am ready to do some disassembly and replace parts if it is (a) cost effective, or (b) the only way if a complete pump is not available. It sure would be easier to obtain a NOS pump and make new connections. Thanks for your help.
  11. What i got is Boric acid powder, 1 pound.
  12. I have received the Borate powder direct from Duda. Please guide me through the preparation to add 50 ppm to my 350 gal. spa. Thanks
  13. Mine are in 2 different climates and 2 different water systems. The higher TA level is in water that is a local source and tests pH neutral from the tap with TA around 150, though my pH in the tub comes in at high on the Taylor scale. I believe this is because of aeration and chlorine bleaching of the sample. I intend to buffer with Borate and see if it brings pH down while not affecting TA. The other tub is on well water that tests acidic. I have had to add Bicarbonate of Soda to bring TA up. The pH of that tub also tests high on the scale despite the low TA. I believe that is due to shocking with chlorine and a 24/7 ozone generator that runs in that spa for ongoing sanitizing since it it is not tested or used for weeks at a time. Based on information in this forum I believe both TA levels are OK. Yours does seem high. Maybe there is a reaction going on such that your reading is not the actual TA measurement. Best advice I can give is to get into the "stickies" of this forum and follow the advice of the chemists/hygenists given there.
  14. Susan, I have 2 spas, both are at vacation houses. One consistently comes in as 40-60 alkalinity, the other around 150. I recommend that you go to the Hot Tub Water Chemistry section and look for posts by Chem Geek. He gives understandable advice and explanations of the water chemistry of hot tubs. and deals with users' problems such as yours (and may tell you it is not much of a problem.) Also be prepared to be guided to start using common household chemicals for your treatments instead of the industry concoctions. It has worked for me. Good luck. Chad in Stinson Beach and Mariposa, CA
  15. Thanks, I had been away for the holiday.Happy New year to all.