mrwrick

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About mrwrick

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  1. Go back to the forums in the Hot Tub Water Chemistry section and check on the topics. You will likely find one that fits your questions. For me, with a vacation spa, I use the bromine method set forth in that forum. I also installed an ozonator that runs on my 24-7 circulation pump, so water has stayed clear and clean for weeks at a time. Regular monitoring is still necessary to assure good total alkalinity and pH. The DelOzone system I use has a test unit that is installed into the ozone line to show whether ozone is being produced. The test is recommended after the system has been in use for months to a year or so, depending on extent of use. I am probably overdue since my system runs 24/7 and has been in operation for a little over one year. The other factor is bather use. Mine is used by my wife and I, sans suits, infrequently due to our schedules to get there, often going 3 weeks between visits/uses. So we pollute our water very little, always showering first, not using lotions after shower, even sunscreen. If your vacation property and spa are used by strangers you will have other demands/needs. Chlorine is the best sanitizer but requires more upkeep/replenishment, but less compatible than bromine with ozone. Go to the water chem forum and spent an hour reading. You will find some very willing chemists and spa professionals who will guide you.
  2. Heater relay?
  3. I have a spa that I am away from for 1 or more weeks regularly. Bather load is also light when we are there using it, 2 people for a half hour maybe twice a day. We shower before, we do not use suits and try not to use any sunscreen or lotions on hands or bodies when we go in to reduce bather waste. I have an ozonator and use the bromine floater. The combination work very well to keep my water clear and clean during absences. I make sure to monitor total alkalinity and pH and use chlorine to regenerate the bromine when we arrive and after uses. When I leave I add 3 bromine tablets to the floater, set low. Good soaking and cleaning of filters is regularly done also. I keep an extra set of filters available.
  4. I bought a new cover for my Hot Spring ClaSSIC FROM THE FActory a couple years ago. They have a 3 year warranty. I am about to contact them to see about replacement. The issue is the top of the vinyl cover has small curls, splits in the vinyl, about 1/2 inch in diameter, all over the area about 12 inches from the edge in toward the field of the cover. This is so odd and so consistent, that it looks to me like a defect in material. It appeared after the wet California winter, not after hot weather, not after much, if any, freezing or snow. I have consistently cleaned the surface with water soluble Green-type cleaner and water and applied a vinyl conditioner. Any ideas what this is? Thanks, I thought I would get a handle on it from the trusted Forum before I try the warranty dept.
  5. I am working on my 1993 Hot Spring ClaSSIC Jet pump, a Wavemaster 7000, version 1 (from whaT I CAN TELL). The motor shaft seized so I have bit the bullet and replaced the motor with an exact replacement by Century Pumps. Now, working on the wet end before I reassemble it all in the spa, here is what else I have done. I have replaced the shaft seal with the spring seal and cup and the ceramic seal that faces up to it in the diffuser. These were exact replacements for the old parts. It was obvious that a previous attempt at sealing the motor from wet end did not include seal replacement, only a glob ring of silicone squeezed around the shaft at the seal. Bogus DIY, not by me. I have also replaced O-rings as follows: 1. on the Volute cover, the largest one; 2. the one in the square plate that bolts to the volute and threads onto the 2 inch out-flow pipe. Now, 3. I want to make sure I have the correct O-ring for the Diffuser. I have ordered an O-ring from a Hot Spring parts supplier and was sent no. 70409 listed for the WM 7000, v.1. So far so good, diameter seems to fit well into the groove, I stretched it slightly over the body to get it into the groove, except it seems a bit thin as the thickness of the ring does not fill the groove. Is this the correct part no. and fit for this o-ring? Curiously, I have also been sent an o-ring for a Sta-Rite pump that was also listed for my serial no. of Classic. I know I specified the Wavemaster 7000. No idea why I got a Sta-rite part that is clearly a smaller diameter and not for my pump. Next, the diffuser has an inner part with spiral vanes and an outer part. The vanes line up with marks inside the outer cover. There appear to be small spots where there might have been nubs and corresponding small holes that look like the two parts used to fit together to stay in alignment.Now the parts are free to revolve independently. It does not look right. Do I need a new diffuser? Last, I ordered a washer called a water slinger to replace one that came out of the old pump on the motor shaft. The old was a stiff plastic, a little concave and fit onto the shaft. This new one is soft rubber or nylon and flat and does not seem to be the right diameter to fit on the shaft without a bit of a stretch. The new motor has a seal on the shaft about the same size. Is this a duplicate of what the new motor already has in place? Thanks to the Forum for all the reliable advice I have received and made use of over the course of rebuilding and maintaining my 2 old spas. The 1989 is humming along and this 1993 is close to perfect. I especially thank the Hot Spring Tech crew and look forward to their specific advice on these questions.
  6. Thanks Jersey, No, I had ordered one of those, and if I had to hook up a draIN hose it might not haver cleared the tub opening without kinking. Instead i also ordered a replacement valve assembly, hoping I would not have to cut the shell to access the old and replace with the new. The replacement drain valve has a red wheel handle as opposed to the black full cover handle on the original. Otherwise the guts are the same. So, I removed the old block and shaft from the old after unthreading the collar nut and replaced it with the guts of the new valve. It leaves me with a fully functional drain same as the original, and a new drain body I will not likely need. Too bad the parts store doesn't sell just the shaft and block, like a sink drain. Thanks for your help.
  7. My 1993 Hot Spring ClaSSIC drain valve turns but does not open or close. It must have partially opened, because there was a small drip from the spigot. I do not see the cap rise or fall when it is turned. The shaft is OK, the slots on top to fit to cap are OK. There is a large nut shape at base of shaft. If I turn this will the valve stem come out? Is there a replaceable part in there? I siphoned my tub dry with a hose. But due to the possibility that the valve is just open enough to drip I do not want to refill before I resolve this issue. Thanks Forum, as always.
  8. Hi, I have a 93 Hot Spring Classic. Went through all the heater tests you have done, then finally found 2 other things: I pinched the exposed capillary tube for the new thermostat when juggling the control box and after replacing the new thermostat with another new one I found I had a bad heater relay and had replaced it with the wrong one. Alot of missteps but eventually got it going. I know the Soveriegn model is different from the Classsic, but the voltage is similar and I bet the essential heater/jet circuitry is also. Mine is set up for 110, so it will either heat or run jets. The relay that went bad was the one that alternates between heater and jets and I HAD REPLACED IT WITH THE HEATER-ONLY UNIT. (sorry, inadvertent caps) I had replaced the lower priced relay and of course I needed the more expensive one. So, I think you need to test more components in the heater circuit and you will likely find the problem is not the heater.
  9. Still there.i just got a tech reply by email.
  10. Dave, another question to follow up your suggestion. I see an Aqua-Flow XP2 at 115 V, but rated at 14.4 amps on high speed. It is a good price, but I have to check my motor's amperage. I understand your idea of wiring the pump to operate at the high speed as a single speed pump, and that amperage is key. The other XP2's I see listed are for 230 V, though they are rated to draw lower amps at high speed, from 6 to 8.5. I can replace the Wavemaster 7000 version 1 for about $700. The Aqua-Flow XP2 is only $200. I understand that fitment will be the issue if AI go with the Aqua-Flow over the Wavemaster, which is set up as a direct replacement for my serial number and model of Hot Spring Classic spa. If you have other information to help me understand the different needs and options I will appreciate it. THANKS, CHAD.
  11. I am intrigued by this post since my spa gets left alone for weeks at a time also. It is set up with a 24/7 recirc pump for filtration. I use bromine pucks in a floater and an ozone generator. The spa clarity is perfect, the water feels fine, but i have noticed a low pH reading, actually very low, acidic level. My jet pump had a small leak due to an old o-ring, but recently it is not working at all when turned on, just hums. If it is the acidity that corroded the pump or motor I need to make a change after I spend $700 for a new jet pump.You did not mention any use of ozone. Now I am wondering if it is the ozone that is continually being pumped into the water that has caused the aCIDICTY (stupid caps). Any ideas on this? Thanks Now I am off to look up the Gecko in.clear system. This forum is great.
  12. Thank you for the extra tips. My plan is to remove the old pump and see what I can figure out it is suffering from before i buy a new one. If it just in need of seals and a cleaning up of shaft and brushes that is what I will try. If it is corroded from acidic water imbalance it will be replaced. But, ouch, the sticker shock is powerful. I appreciate your recommendation of the alternate pump.
  13. Thanks Dave, good advice. I plan to get replacement info from Hot Spring Official and will follow your cues about removal. I know it will be tough.i tried to loosen the upper connection when I did work and it is tight. I will try some strap wrenches you get leverage in that tight space, leaving cutting the coupling as last resort.
  14. Good looking work. Gioes one ideas for more projects with concrete.
  15. Thanks Mike. Will do. Chad