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About lkneisler

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    Spa Movers

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    Silicon Valley, CA
  1. You don't want to replace the wet end unless it's absolutely necessary. It matches up with the existing plumbing on your spa. That's all that matters, really; that the wet end matches up with your plumbing. And on a Jacuzzi that may not be so easy to do. It also needs to match up with the hp of your motor, obviously. Jacuzzi is very proprietary. There is one guy that posts on here sometimes who knows about the finer details. Maybe He'll pitch in to help if you've really got your heart set on replacing things. What's your primary objective here; saving money, having a project, reducing your spa downtime... ?
  2. Well... the heater reset had in fact tripped. Meanwhile the 30 amp breaker had tripped again also. I shut off both breakers and reset the heater (pushed in the reset button). Flipped on the 20 then flipped on the 30. So far so good. But then I hear this popping noise. It takes a few seconds from the time I turn on the 30 amp breaker til I hear the popping, and the popping persists a second or two after I shut off the 30 amp breaker. So I'm thinking it's water and overheating - BUT the circ. pump is running fine, there's water flow and bubbles... can the heater still be getting low or no water flow? Now I'm really stumped. Oh, and the continuity - I pulled the heater leads off and didn't get a zero, but it stays around 1. I thought it should be like 10 or 12. But then I didn't unscrew the ground wire - does that matter? I was anxious to leave cos the owners were understandably upset. Lori After some reading and a few phone calls... I'm gong to vote that the electrician didn't know what he was doing - tried to figure out why the 30 amp breaker wouldn't stay set - and somehow dry fired the heater.
  3. Good suggestion - I'll check Yes, perfectly I didn't think it had one! I hope that's what it is. The voltage was good - I didn't know the spa wasn't heating til the next day, so I didn't check for no continuity. Yep. Did that. The circ pump was on and pushing water & bubbles just fine. Thank you guys for the help and suggestions! I'll keep my fingers crossed that it's just a reset button. I'm supposed to go back there in the morning. Lori
  4. What Roger said is easiest; pull the pump and take it to a motor shop that works on pool and spa equipment. What you're looking for is one of these guys: You'd have to take your motor out, take off the front of the wet end (pump), try to get the impeller off - 1/2 of the time the impeller breaks - unscrew the 4 really long bolts that holds the pump onto the motor, then replace the seal, and put it all back together again. I hope this helps!
  5. If you have power going to the motors and the motors aren't working, AND the wires are not fried, I'd say you can safely assume the motors need to be serviced or replaced. If you're a do-it-yourselfer, call your pool and spa guys and see if they can recommend a good motor service shop. If there is no water flow, then you're going to get a flow error. Do you have power going to your spa light? Stereo? Check for blown fuses? - there's a diverter/converter/black box thing for the stereo that has a fuse you can check. Otherwise, unfortunately, the board could be toast. And it could even be in addition to, or unrelated to, the towel indecent; like a power surge or lightning.
  6. We buy the spray on dip. It's a plastic coating for your tool handles. You can buy it at a hardware store, usually in black. Look where the regular spray paint is sold. Dry out the pillows and spray on the dip. One good coat is enough. Let them dry for a day or two (depends on the weather) and they'll look like brand new! If your spa cover rubs on the tops of the pillows it probably won't last long, otherwise we've had ours for over a year and they still look perfect. We also moved a spa we sold a while ago and had spray dipped the pillows - they still looked perfect as well. Hope this helps!
  7. HL sounds like a high limit error - where your spa thinks it's 118 or so degrees. If the water is moving like it should, isn't too hot, and you get the error, then replace the high limit sensor.
  8. Good morning! I just looked at a 230 volt install of a used hot spring sovereign, 1997. The 30 amp breaker wouldn't set; it tripped immediately. The electrician put the ground wire from the disconnect box under a screw that was directly under the ground wire connection for the heater instead of in the #7 position as shown in the wiring diagram on the control box lid. Would that miswire cause damage to the heater? The spa heat perfectly at the last house, but now it's not heating at the new house. The breaker stays set, the heat LED is on, there is correct power going to the heater leads. Thanks! Lori
  9. Thank you Dan.The.Spa.Man! I broke it It must be really stuck cos I couldn't get it to budge at all. It did twist right off in my hand too! So now the end is stuck in there. I'll try some vice grips or something creative. Thanks again! Lori
  10. After disconnecting the little air tube, how do you get the jet off/out? I thought it was supposed to be "so easy".
  11. I'm not a patient person so with the filter still out I'd run the jets on high to make sure there's no 'crap' in the lines then shut off the breaker and turn it back on.
  12. You are quite the trooper! Good job and I hope you get to enjoy your spa for a long, long time!!
  13. If the heat light isn't going on then the spa is not calling for heat. That could be a flow error usually cause by dirty filters or the flow switch needing to be adjusted or replaced. Of if you have a circulation pump it might not be working, but I don't think Cal Spa uses circ pumps. Pull your filter(s) and run your spa for a little while to see if that resolves the problem; where you'll see the heat light on. If you still have no heat light and no heat then you need to identify where the flow switch is and check to see if it has continuity when the pump is running on low speed. Let me know if you need help with this.
  14. Your spa may be "ozone ready" where there is a clear tube to connect to using a check valve. Sometimes it's obvious, sometimes it's mostly buried in the sprayed on insulation/foam. In any case, it would be in the equipment area near the access panel. If it's not ozone ready then this might help: It's a little over-complicated but it has diagrams and examples and we're told it's useful.
  15. Is your heat indicator light on - on the top side control panel?