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About ChaiSTi

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    Spa Savant

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  1. You might be out of luck. Maddox equipments are hard to come by since they went out of business some time ago.
  2. Your spa cover is probably not in the best condition so rain or ice water probably dripped in that way. Remove the panels to the equipment bay and check for any sign of water lose. No signs? All you can do then is fill it up and see what happens. Maybe fill it up to the level of the standing water and leave it there for a few hours. Then check it later to see if the water level has dropped any. If not, continue to fill it up and cross your fingers.
  3. Did you ever get this resolved. The rHnF is a flow code that shuts off the heater and eventually everything else. Are you able to activate any of the other pumps while this code is flashing? If the circulation pump doesn't feel like it's working, then most likely it's not. Can you see or feel if the shaft of the circ. pump is spinning? If this is a Laing E14 circ. pump, then you can only feel the motor for vibration. If you do have a Laing circ. pump, then my guess is that the pump is faulty. From my experience, they are notorious for failing. Check the fuses for continuity. I believe you have an in.xm control system so it should be a 20A that protects the CP port. If pump 1 does your cycling, then there will be 25A or 30A fuses for P1, P2, and P3.
  4. You might want to double check that white fuse. That white fuse can't be visually inspected for good or bad. You have to either test for voltage on booth side or pull it out and test it for continuity.
  5. That's odd. I'm assuming the blown fuse was the 25 or 30A slow blow which protects your pump. You should have gotten a flow code instead like FLC, FLO, or LF. I'm not familiar with the VS612 but other VS packs I've seen had the fuses on the PCB. There are usually 1 or 2 large Amp fuses and some low Amp fuses for the transformer and light.
  6. Is your circ. pump a low HP & Amp pump or a two speed pump that circulates water on low speed? The former usually operates 24/7 and the latter shuts off after temp. has been reached. The logic in your control system appears to be set up for the latter. Double check the jumpers on the board to make sure they are set properly. I have also ran across some bad/loose jumpers which can affect the board logic.
  7. You'll get the SN error code if there is a difference of two or more degrees between the sensors. Are there DIP switches on your board? If so, move number 1 into the ON position. This will put the spa in test mode and give you a reading of both sensors. You'll see something like A = and B =. Now swap the sensors around by unplugging them and switching the connector around. If A was reading higher before the swap, then B should now read higher. If so, switch out both sensors. If A continues to read higher after the swap, then you probably need a new circuit board.
  8. Maybe you have pop up speakers? Edit Sorry, misunderstood your issue. Have you tried the fader and balance feature? My guess is that your other three speakers may be bad. Depending on the type of speakers you have and how it was wired, it may be easy enough to take your good speaker and plug it into the other three areas to see if there is any difference.
  9. Not sure what brand of control system Atera uses but switching out the topside usually means that you have to switch out the lower control system, as well.
  10. The NA in.xe control system is usually equipped with a 110V vs. the 220V transformer that's found in the CE version. There's also the difference in frequency, 60Hz vs. 50Hz. Even if you're somehow able to install your transformer into the NA pack and power it, you may run into another issue with the the voltage input. If you are on dual phase, then I'm not sure how that's going to work. Edit: Here is a breakdown for the model and option codes 5 - 5 Outputs 12 - Pump 2 can be dual speed H4.0 - Heater 4kW 1 - Orange Key for pump 1 2 - Purple Key for pump 2 K - Blank Key (can be either circ. pump or blower) O - Ozone D - Direct input (constant voltage source - usually used for stereo) 32K - Software CE - Complies to European Market NOTE: Just because the control system has these options does not mean that you can utilize them all. The spa manufacturer usually has proprietary software that they load into the control system so that it acts the way they need it to.
  11. Well, if the heater is indeed faulty, then you might luck out with one for less online. There's a very popular auction site that has a used one going for dirt cheap, right now.
  12. Joe Blow, are you sure you have a bad sensor? Did you check the heater for any build up? Is your circulation pump working? You can get this code if there is insufficient water flow through the heater.
  13. You're at the right place. What's going on with your spa?
  14. Leaking gate valves usually require re-plumbing of new fittings. If the gate valve is connected to any rigid PVC, i.e. unions, elbows, then all that would have to replaced too.
  15. This is how it should look w/load: Low speed W-B: 220V W-R: 0V High Speed W-B: 0V W-R: 220V you shouldn't have any voltage between neutral & ground. you're either missed wired these pumps, have bad pump cords, or your circuit board is no good.