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  1. Today
  2. Hi folks, I am here for some suggestions on the dumpster bin. Earlier, we used the dumpster bin to dump all the waste in it. But recently the municipality has started collecting the waste and it is easy for us to dispose of the waste. So was thinking of recycling dumpster bin. While surfing online for some reusing techniques, I stumbled across an article http://www.redbins.ca/4-amazing-pools-made-dumpster-bins/ which suggests that the dumpster bin can be used for creating pools. Has anyone ever tried this before? Please let me know and share your thoughts too. Thanks.
  3. Hi! I'm hoping I can explain my situation in enough detail..I apologize in advance for the long post. I recently hired a contractor to do a repair on an above ground 12x24 pool. The liner had been damaged during the winter and the water that was in the pool had washed out to the lowest point. It caused one section of the pools supports and slant to one side a good several inches. The contractor deals a lot in text messages and we never actually signed any kind of contract in regards to the work. He originally texted us the quote saying "to replace liner, supplied and installed is $1500 plus tax. Includes repairs to pool floor" We then asked for some kind of written paperwork in which we got an email with a letter saying .. "I am pleased to provide the following estimate to replace an above ground swimming pool liner. This estimate includes the following work: measuring for order of the new liner, the purchase of a new 20 (mil) full print liner, the installation of the new liner. New face plates and gaskets for the skimmer, and returns are included in the installation. • Supply and Install new 20 gauge (mil) full print liner $ 1, 500.00 12x24 overlap HST $ 195.00 Total $ 1, 695.00" In short... he started the repairs liner was out and left out for a few days then a liner was installed came home to a pool 3/4 of the way full. We sent him a message saying the pool was still extremely sloped at least 5-6inches from one side to the other. Plus the liner is riddled with wrinkles all over the base and side posts leaning outwards several degrees. The response was I can't believe it that's the way it was before we fixed it and then he sent me this face . Several days went by no response and we finally asked so what is happening with the pool? He said he was just going to complete the plumbing and be on his marry way. We tried inquiring about fixing it and why it wasnt fixed and he said he was only hired for the liner repair didn't know there were structural problems and made all kinds of excuses. He wasn't confident in doing the repairs and I've had to hire someone else to do everything. Which will cost $2400. We havent paid anything and just got our invoice from him and he is charging full price for replacing the liner, repairing pool floor as per proposal landing us at $1600+ My question is do we have any right to dispute the charges because the liner and repairs weren't done correctly? We were expecting to pay something obviously for the materials maybe? I've got pictures if that helps Thanks in advance!!
  4. Yesterday
  5. Does weeping tile need to go all the way around the pool to be effective? Our builder dumped extra cement under the Stairs and as a result ran about 5 feet short of weeping tile leaving a gap under the stairs. The stairs are at the highest point Would this affect the drainage and cause water to pool under the stairs/behind the liner or is it enough that the weeping tile is around the rest of the pool? Any input would be helpful. Thanks!
  6. Last week
  7. Twice now the "substation" circuit breaker has tripped. How would I start to diagnose the problem? about 3 weeks apart. Before the first time, I felt like pump was not running full power. After tripped and was reset, it seemed to be pumping much better. Now its tripped a second time.
  8. Sodium bromide - bromine generator. No odor, feels good on skin, minimal maintenance.
  9. OK, please read carefully because the obvious response to this question cannot be right: My 10-year-old Tiger River Bengal spa has begun gurgling loudly. I hear the gurgles as bubbles traveling through the tubing. They can be heard all over the tub; there's no clear location for them. Bubbles coming from the ozonator are large. When I block the venturi with my finger, the gurgling stops in a few seconds. This means that air is NOT entering the system from somewhere else in the tub. So you would think the problem must lie with the ozonator, the check valve, or the flow restrictor - but read on. The strange thing is that when I flush, drain, and clean the tub, the gurgling goes away completely. Bubbles from the ozonator look like they should: tiny bubbles, lots of them, like champagne or soda fizz. The tub will then work normally for a day or two, even three or four days — but then the gurgling slowly comes back, getting louder and louder, and the bubbles get bigger and bigger. I've done this four times now with the same result each time. I thought the problem was too much airflow, because this problem began when I pulled the flow restrictor out of my Hot Springs ozonator, not realizing that I wouldn't be able to replace it. First I bought a new ozonator (a JED 103 CD Spa / Hot Tub Ozone Generator), but that did nothing. So I installed a flow restrictor between the ozonator and the check valve. (The JED 103's parts are sealed, so I can't tell if there's already a flow restrictor at the ozonator's own air intake.) I also replaced all the tubing and the check valve. The flow restrictor definitely reduces the gurgling. But it doesn't stop it, and while the ozone bubbles aren't huge, they also don't look like the gentle fizz that seems normal. The weird behavior - after cleaning it works normally with no gurgling, even without a flow restrictor in place, but then slowly begins to gurgle again - suggests to me that maybe the problem is not in the ozonator at all. Could it be a clog in the plumbing somewhere? I'm imaging a partial blockage with air building up behind it, then bubbling through in large bursts - or something like that. How can I figure this out?
  10. Hello. I bought Lay-Z-Spa Miami (portable hot tub), i would like to have lights in this. I saw videos how people turned some lights on and water in jacuzzi in night was.. for example red and looked like lava. It was really nice atmosphere. Any ideas? THANKS
  11. Ph high. I always have a problem with it. TA, Calcium, Bromine all within normal ranges. What is going on and what can I do about the pH? Thanks to anyone who can answer this. Even more thanks to anyone who can make it simple enough that an idiot like me can understand it.
  12. I have a 2010 Jacuzzi J230. It is a 3 wire spa. Recently, the breaker blew out, so I opened up the control box and noticed some black marks. After further inspection, I noticed that one of the 220 wires that plugs into the bottom of the circuit board had essentially shorted itself and burnt the connection off the board. I am curious is just replacing the board is going to fix the problem, or that wire during up is an indication of a much bigger problem. I did a little research and this wire goes to the thermostat for my heater core. It is one pole of the 220V circuit. (the black wire) Is it possible the hearter core I also bad and the short caused this to burn up?.
  13. Hello I have a problem figuring out what model and serial number to use to look up info on my used hot tub. 

    They said it was a keys backyard. It seems there maybe some problems with this make of spa. 

    Please help!

    any help is a big help!

  14. Hi All Just finished installing a 2003 Sweetwater Bahia Spa for my Wife, it's in Beautiful Shape and everything works fine. I am new to this Hot Tub/ Spa thing, we have had a pool for like 15 years. I have the Owners Manual but it does not list the Water Capacity ? I searched the web and came up with 350 - 380 Gallons. Looking to Convert my Chemical Doses for the Spa. Any help would be appreciated ! Thanks Timmy from Trumbull, CT
  15. Update tub has been running for a day and is almost up to temp, just need to reprogram from celsius to American! If anyone needs to update the board was easy to replace everything is labeled, just use standard crimp connectors. The board set me back $300. Thanks all.
  16. Hello guys. Would love to get some feedback on this. I have a 2005 Vista with a new front control and now a flashing power light. It starts up when powered up, temp comes on, no working buttons at all, then 10 seconds later, the power light comes on, then the panel goes blank until i recycle the GFI's. What concerns me is that when this happens, the pump runs and i have good flow, i also have 12.5 k @ 68 degrees on both thermistors which should be good but my LIM light goes off when the panel goes off, then my Control unplugged light comes on and stay on. I verified the installation of the new panel with the red line on the ribbon toward the top of the panel per instructions. I am getting ready to swing for a new IQ2020 board. I'm i making the right mover here ?? thanks guys Johnny confused
  17. Thanks for the reply. No, the new heater does not have a reset.
  18. Doees your no fault heater have a hi limit reset? It would be a tiny button, about the thickness of a lollipop stick, mounted on one end of the heater. If so, push it in and reset the breaker.
  19. Well it was the board the heater relay burnt. I tested the heater resistance with a meter and it was still good. This tub is from 2003 so i guess the relay just wore out. i got a new board and put it in seems to be working i will have to wait for the temp to rise to know for sure. The new board had both shovel connector and screw terminals i replace the two that schorched with screw terminals and sprayed all the others with dioxit. Thanks for the replies.
  20. Hoping someone will be able to help me identify what is leaking on my Jacuzzi J370. There is a black box directly behind the control panel. I tool a video of it here: https://youtu.be/fdv2ZrmSfoc. I cannot figure out what it is, though. It's roughly 6" wide by 4" high. Thanks in advance for any help.
  21. I just bought a 2006 bullfrog spa. I was told at the dealer everything I needed to get started. He sold me insta test 3 plus strips, spa guard chlorinated concentrate,enhanced shock (58%sodium dichloro s triazinetrione) a ph decreaser and increaser, natural enzyme, stain and scale control and a water clarifier. My test strips only test fc alkalinity and ph. My tub is being used at least once a day by 1 to 5 people. Should i be testing for more things than the 3 things that are on my test strips? I also thought it was pretty salty last night. My fc was 3, alk 120 and ph i think was 7.6 ish. I'm using 2 teaspoons of chlorine a day plus ph decreaser and shocking it everytime we have more than 1 use a day with 3+people. What else should i be doing or what should i quit doing?
  22. I hope someone can give me some advice on this cuz I'm running out of options. Previously my GFI was tripping when the heater was hooked up so naturally I thought the heater was bad. I bought a new Watkins No-Fault to replace my old one. I still experienced GFI tripping. I pulled my heater control panel and I didn't see any shorts. So I assumed it was my control and hi-temp thermistors, replaced them and now my GFI is not tripping but the "Ready" indicator light is blinking indicating the hi-temp sensor is malfunctioning. Do you think it is my main control board?
  23. I had a complete burn out on my Saphire spa and had the Davey/Spa-Quip Spa Power PCB - SP600/SP601 board replaced by a hot tub repair company. Ever since when running after a few seconds it stops quoting error 6. The repair company now wont respond to email or telephone so i'm stuck. This error should mean no water moving across the heater and hence shuts down the system. There clearly is water moving across the heater as all of the pumps bubble, blower, etc work. There are 3 sensors on the heater tube. A Klixon (thermostat type device), optical sensor and temperature sensor. When i disconnect the optical sensor i get error 8. When I disconnect the temperature sensor I get error 4 so i feel these must be OK. I have changed the Klixon...same result error 6! Now if i open circuit the Klixon the error goes away...but heater doesn't work! There has to be something simple and obvious but I can't find it help please! Steve
  24. I have one like that. It has "Standards 7 digital System" on the control panel. We got it to heat (it wouldn't for about 2 years), but now it has a OH in the window. Any ideas what that means?
  25. Thai Food Festival. The festival of deliciousness that gathers Thai foods, shops and performances in one event will be held on 8-11 June at Makkasan Airport Link Courtyard. more information : www.tourismthailand.org/thaifest
  26. We have used both chlorine and bromine.I prefer chlorine because bromine odor seems to irritate when breathing.I test daily and add a small quantity of chlorine every other day.
  27. Well, after the jet clean ther was a lot of gunky slime around the pool, so it was needed. I drained the spa, and thought I did a decent job of flushing the lines . I used a shop vac and sucked out each port. I then put it on the blower side and blew air in the jets . I took the hose and ran water through each jet Again used a shop vac to suck out the water, and blow out the lines Then I refilled the spa. The PH was fine and alkalinity was reading ok. I do not have my Taylor test kit yet, so I raised the chlorine with shock until strips were off of the chart, then added some more. When I turned on the jets, it looked like a bubble bath. I guess that I did not do enough rinsing. I kept the chlorine up for 24 hours, and then drained the tub, More shop vac blowing and sucking. I added enough water to run the pumps, and ran each of them very briefly. And then drained, sucked and blew out the lines and rinsed a third time. Then I filled the tub. NO FOAMING, But TA very high (as expected) PH went from 7.6 to 8.5 in 4 hours. I added some MPS (MSP??) I used the last of my dry acid and went out and picked up some more. I also got a gallon of “safe muriatic acid” which is 20% vs 12% for the regular stuff (if I remember correctly). I have added 1 oz. of muriatic acid and checked the PH, it dropped a little but not much. Over the next hour, I added 2 oz. of muriatic acid at a time, and checked the PH several times. It would settle after dropping a few tenths. I eventually got it down to 7.3, and decided to let the blowers run for a few cycles and check it in a few hours. From what I read on another post, 1 gallon of muriatic is 11 or 12 pounds of dry. If I am doing the math right. 128 oz. (1 gallon) is (12 pounds * 16 oz. or 192 oz.) of dry. Each oz. of muriatic is .66 oz. of dry. If the safe muriatic I found is 20% vs 12% then 1 oz. of muriatic is about .4 oz. of dry. I wear gloves around the muriatic. I also pour it into the measuring container outside. I then add it to a gallon of water in a 2 gallon bucket (so it is not very full), so it is much diluted quickly. I then pout the diluted into the spa. I have a salt water pool in Dallas, and have to use several cups of muriatic acid ther weekly to keep the PH in range, so handling the stuff does not concern me. At least if I do spill some on me, I can jump in the spa to quickly rinse it off. Right now the TA is still off of the chart using the test strips. I have a Taylor test kit on order, so I should be able to get more accurate numbers soon. I do have a digital PH meter that I got on eBay for less than $10. It came with chemicals to calibrate it, but so far the reading are in the same range as the test strips, so I think that I am getting good PH readings to the tenth. I appreciate your time, and am still learning a lot. But I think that at least I now understand what is happening with the chemistry.
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