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  1. Yesterday
  2. Please start a new thread and post pictures of the transformer, control pack and the wiring diagram. Post the voltages you got from black-white, white-red, red-black and then blue-blue and yellow-yellow. The yellow-blue combination is not a valid combination for testing.
  3. Post photos of the spa pack, circuit board and schematic on inside cover if there is one so we can see what system you have. @T8.
  4. A little bit confused here. The TP series of topside controls connect to the circuit board using a Molex style connector. The VL series uses a phone jack style. Post photos of the circuit board and the schematic on the inside cover of the pack. As for heating use a multi meter and test for 240V coming off the circuit board. You might have a blown heater relay and in that case you will likely only read 120V coming off the board. There may be a "Dip" Switch setting for the topside and how it operates. Again post photos of schematic and circuit board @Troy H.
  5. That mark on your pool does indeed look like it could be calcium buildup, especially if it's around the waterline. You can try using a diluted mixture of vinegar and water or a specialized calcium remover to gently scrub it off.
  6. Last week
  7. I’m having the same trouble on a Sundance Altamar 2000, 850 series, with the blank panel and inoperable. All 3 sensors are ok I believe , but the transformer failed on 1 of the 7 checks: 17.9 vac at blue 2 to yellow 2 with the post above procedure showing 15 vac maximum. is this likely my issue? thank you
  8. I was looking at my 5-week-old Bullfrog A6L's three EOS Ozonator System components today, Ozone Generator $392, Ozone Mixing Chamber, and Carbon filter. The carbon filter says to mark the date put in use and replace in two years. The new Bullfrog brand EOS carbon filter costs $88. My reading says that carbon absorbs Ozone (O3). There does not apear to be any other special ingredients required, so I will just replace it with a generic carbon filter. I'm not sure which types of activated carbon used in water treatment – Granular Activated Carbon (GAC) and Powdered Activated Carbon (PAC), would be best for this application. The main difference between GAC and PAC is their particle size. GAC has a larger particle size than the PAC and thus larger surface area. I'd guess the granular (GAC), but I'll cut open the old filter in 2 years to see the texture of the charcoal in the Bullfrog OEM filter when it is time to replace it.
  9. Do you have pump 1 (2 speed- 4 wires) and pump #2 (1 speed 3 wires) in correct position?
  10. Repair relay is cheaper. Where are you located? Remove the board and look on the back for damage Looks like a Balboa revolution pack with a small circuit board on top of a larger circuit board on top of the heater. Is it possible the middle board is touching something metal below it?
  11. Spa is about 12 years old, came out recently to find the gfci tripped and water cold so it had been off a few days. After restarting, spa ran normally but heater was not heating. Replaced the heater with a 4.0kw replacement and refilled. Touched nothing on the motherboard and re-used the 2 electrical leads that go from motherboard to heater tube. Spa starts normally and pumps and controls work. After system calls for heat, a loud crack and spark and smoke appears near the relays and the GFCI trips. If I leave the heater tube disconnected, the spa runs and the motherboard wires are putting out 240. Of course, these relays are soldered on the board, so not easy for me to replace. Question: worth trying to find a shop to remove/replace the relays or just buy a whole new spa pack? This one is Balboa 56286-01 and its no longer made. Thanks!
  12. Hi all, I'll try to make this short without skipping details. I'm having some issues with our old spa. Our tub is a 2012 Artisan Spa (60"x84") with a single pump and light. (Balboa parts) About 4 yrs ago, the pump went out - that was easy to replace as I just pulled the model number and ordered a new one. Soon after that the topside control panel went out, I ordered a new one that I thought would work (Balboa TP 400 I believe) It kind of worked... several of the buttons were misaligned. (ie: hit Jets 2 to turn on the light, etc.) But it functioned and turned everything on/off - so no worries. Tossed the original top controller. Over the last yr or so the face plate of the top controller has been peeling off and water has gotten into the controller (either from condensation, splashes, overfilling, etc.) About 3 weeks ago, the tub quit heating. I assumed it was the heater - so replaced it with an OEM replacement from Amazon. Took a week to get that in and during that week, killed power so it wouldn't burn up the pump. (it was running constant trying to heat) After replacing that and resetting it a few times (priming the pump and getting the air out, etc.) It started heating and acting normal. Enjoyed the tub again once it got back up to temperature for 1 day. Then - back to not heating anymore. Logic tells me at this point that it might be the top controller that is getting water in it and shorting somehow... Decided to order a new top controller (Balboa VL240 4-button controller pump, lights, hot & cold) since I needed one anyway and thought that might be the issue; I figured the 4-button was all I need since that is all the features our tub has anyway - figured it would work just fine. Plugged it in tonight - no dice. Instead of going into the "PR" cycle - display reads "187"? Only two of the 4 buttons respond - 1 to run jets (the cold button) and one to switch the light (jets button) So - now I'm thinking either it's the wrong top controller... or my main panel is blown somehow? Or maybe a combination of both? Guessing two solutions - either order/try a different top control panel or a new main board? Pic of model #, heater I replaced, and controller I ordered. Thanks for any help/advice!!
  13. Hot tub will turn on and sit in “pr” mode and if I press the temperature button the hot tub will begin to run and heat normally. After a few minutes or hours it will shut off and be non-responsive, eventually it will return to turning on and being in “pr” mode. Whilst turning back on it will show “24” while in start up before it sits on “pr” until touched.
  14. This was just the information I needed to fix my tub. After changing the water in my 2007 Hot Spring Envoy I went to power it back up and the power light would just flash. Looking on the IQ 2020 board, I could see that when powering up the LIM OK light would light up for a few seconds, then turn off and the "CONTROL UNPLUGGED" light would come on. The circulation pump would run, but no heater, and no response to any of the controls on the main control panel. I had our local dealer come by and they quoted me a new control head because the display and buttons weren't working. That didn't quite sit right with me as to the reason for the issue... and then I found this post. This morning I took a look at the I2C interface and there were a couple things plugged into it. First, I tried disconnecting the LED light as suggested in this post. Still had the same issue. Then I followed the cables for the other things plugged into the I2C interface... one appeared to be a remote control receiver (part RFMR-1C) but I never had a remote for this tub, so I disconnected it. The other two things plugged into it seemed to go to the stereo which had been removed a long time ago, so I disconnected those two. When I flipped the breakers and powered it back up, BINGO! It's now running just fine. Glad I didn't have the dealer order the control head only to find out that wasn't the issue! Thanks for the post!!
  15. Hey. Thanks for responding. The water is clear green. The shell is white. I'm unsure what MPS is, but I was told to use Spa Guard shock after every use and Spa Guard Enhanced Shock (which smells alot like chlorine) once a week. I clean the filter weekly. I remove it and rinse it, pleat by pleat, in the sink and place it back in the tub. I am so new at this and just want to get the balance correct and have blue water all the time. I don't want to life the cover and wonder if I'm gonna see clear green tint or clear blue tint 🙄
  16. It is a rebranded Nature 2 mineral stick. It contains silver nitrate and does require the use of chlorine for shocking and MPS (in conjunction with the silver and the hot water) as a sanitizer. I am not a fan of silver "mineral stick" systems. It's not really any different that the Frog systems. Is your water al cloudy green or a clear green? Cloudy indicates algae and is because you do not have a residual sanitizer in the water. Did you shock with chlorine (dichlor is the usual choice but I prefer bleach) to activate the system and have you been adding the MPS after every soak? Have you been shocking with chlorine weekly? Is your water a clear green color (and does your tub have a blue acrylic shell? If you you have iron in your water. Iron will color the water yellow and when viewed against the blue color of most tubs it makes the water look green. Both of these are water balance issues and once we determine which is your problem we can take it form there.
  17. Thanks, It does have a cover, from the photos it looks to be in near new condition.
  18. You are already taking the first step, see it running. Make sure ALL functions work. Examine under it thoroughly for any signs of leaks. Inspect the frame for rot, etc. Has it a good cover? I would pop the cover on the electronics and look for any signs of a relay overheat. Dark spots on the board, etc.
  19. Hey all, going to look at a hot tub early next week, the seller says everything works good on it and he still has it filled in running so I can see it run. I'm new to hot tubs, but I'm a pretty well-rounded handy guy so usually can work my way through most things. What do you look for when you're checking out a used tub? From the pictures that I can see the tub is a 10-year-old plug and play, believe brand is Freestyle? Model IPG 202se, has been kept in an enclosed porch so it's not out in the weather and looks to be in really nice shape. And as a bonus he says he has a bunch of guys he can have there to help me load it on to the trailer. So really I just need to know what to look for while I'm looking it over.
  20. There are adaptor plates available in several different sizes: https://spadepot.com/products/spa-topside-control-adapter-plate-3-3-4-inch-hq0089
  21. I have a 2013 artesian spa grand bahama hot tub. My topside panel display has been wearing out and I feel like it’s on borrowed time, from what I’ve read their panel is basically a balboa tp800 with different overlay, it looks like this: https://www.hottuboutpost.com/artesian-spa-control-panel-tp800-33-1314-08-2-pump-3-pump/ even though it has a larger plastic surround the hole is the same as the tp800. I figured since I have to change the panel anyway I might as well upgrade while I’m at it and was considering installing a balboa spatouch 3. The main issue I’m seeing is the hole already in the spa is wider than needed the tp800 hole is 8.88” wide (https://www.balboawatergroup.com/getdoc.cfm?id=1367) the spatouch 3 hole is only 5” wide (https://www.balboawatergroup.com/getdoc.cfm?id=2457) What would be the best way to fill in the opening? I figured I could get some sort of plate and silicone that to the shell of the tub, then cut the new hole into that, but what material should I use. I’m curious what others have done or what people feel would be the best option?
  22. In January, I purchased a Hot Spring spa. It uses silver ion (or something like that). It's not a FROG system. There's no chlorine. I'm struggling reading the test strips. I think they read ok but then my water has a green tint to it. I've taken my water in and every time I have to add stuff to it (ph increaser or ph decreaser, alkalinity stuff, enhanced shock). It fixes it for a few days then I'm back to that unappealing green tint. I clean my filter weekly and I'm supposed to out a new silver ion tube in at four months. I'm so very new to all of this and sucked at chemistry in school. Is there a trick to getting the water blue on a consistent basis? Is there an easier (dummy-friendly) way to test the water and know exactly what to add? I spent so much money in this hot tub and want to make sure I'm doing the care correctly. Please help!
  23. Earlier
  24. So an update, but still no solution. The spa pack woke up without the in.therm heater unit plugged in. I attempted to put it into learning mode and while it started a scan, I promptly got the RH-NC error. Which makes sense because the heater was not plugged in, but at least it told me the heater was the problem. Consequently, testing this by plugging the heater back in would immediately make the spa pack go unresponsive upon power up. The topside keypad was definitely bad as well. Ordered replacement in.therm heater and in.k600 keypad and installed. Now I'm getting the SP-IN error, which is insufficient voltage. Strange to say the least, L1 to N & G is 123V, L2 to N & G is 124V, and L1 to L2 is as expected, 246V. I tried bypassing the underground line between the box and the spa by temporarily running an external cable straight to the spa pack and using a non-GFCI breaker, but still got the SP-IN error. I even physically traced the line from the main circuit breaker box in the attic to the outside breaker box and there is nothing amiss there either. The connections in the main breaker box are all correct and tight as well. I've seen a couple of other, older threads with this same problem but it doesn't look like any solutions were ever posted. My next step is to ditch the obsolete in.xm system and upgrade to the in.yt-7, which is going to take some re-wiring and re-plumbing. It's either that or discard the whole spa, which seems like a real shame since most everything else is in pretty decent shape and a new spa is cost prohibitive at this point. I came across a seller on eBay that has been extremely knowledgeable and super helpful, but figured I'd try one more time on here for any thoughts from the collective knowledge base. Thanks!
  25. I too have some real hard water I needed to deal with. I ended up with a 6 month old HotSpring saltwater hot tub for 1/3 of the sticker price. Folks I bought it from knew nothing about water chemistry, and kept the Vanishing Act XL in there, once a week, thinking it was like an oil bobble (that sinks?). Needless to say, it was spent, I tried 24h of Vanishing Act mode in the tub, water still hard af. Before spending the $85 cad on a new one, I tried getting some scalding hot water in a bucket, pouring pool salt in until fully saturated (i.e. further salt addition would no longer dissolve), and stirring the Vanishing Act pillow in the brine for several minutes, every few hours. I let it sit in here over night. Tried vanishing act mode again the next day, and within 6 hours my hardness was down to normal tub levels, and 6 after that it was perfectly in the salt tub range. One time use my ass! Freshwater company hates me for this one simple trick 😜
  26. It is a calcium buildup which can be either calcium carbonate (easy to remove) and calcium silicate (difficult to remove) There are several ways to do this. For calcium carbonate you can use a commercial pool tile cleaner with a scrub brush Muriatic acid (use proper safety gear and respirator) is the easiest and fastest , citric acid solution (will deplete chlorine until but will also help with rust and some other metal staining), pool tile soap (either by itself or mixed with muriatic acid) with a scrub brush or pool tile brush, spray on a mixture of equal parts white vinegar and water and scrub with a brush (requires a lot of scrubbing). Do not use any abrasive tools (pumice stone, Magic Eraser) because they can damage the gelcoat on your fiberglass pool since you indicated that the 'tile' is actually part of the fiberglass and not actual tile. If it is calcium silicate it is next to impossible to remove without using an abrasive, which you cannot do on a fiberglass surface.. If you had an actual tile line with real tile this would not be a problem. My favorite is tile soap and muriatic acid or a commercial tile cleaner with a tile brush.
  27. Hello, I'm reaching out for assistance with my Hot Springs Jetsetter LX hot tub, purchased in April 2021. Fortunately, it's still under the 5-year electrical warranty, although the 2-year lighting warranty has expired. I'm hopeful this issue falls under the electrical category. Issue Description: Initial Symptom: Approximately two weeks ago, I observed that the MotoMassager was inactive. Subsequent Observation: A few days later, the underwater light exhibited limited color functionality, stuck on a few colors and unresponsive to attempts at color changes. Troubleshooting Attempts: I've tried resetting the remote panel and powering off the tub entirely, neither of which resolved the issue. Progression: The lighting issues escalated, affecting both interior and exterior lights. Now, when the power button on the remote is pressed, it inadvertently activates the jets and sets the lights to blue. Attempting to change the light color results in all lights turning off. Remote Control Functionality: The remote includes several controls: a purple icon for jets, a water drop for saltwater settings (adjusting levels and cleaning cycle), and a lightbulb for light settings. Currently, the saltwater settings are unresponsive, the jets control functions correctly, but the light setting fails to change the lights' colors. Dealer Visit: A local dealer inspected the hot tub but was unable to diagnose the issue. Although he did replace and repair the MotoMassage. They've decided to consult Hot Springs tech support for further guidance and I'm waiting to hear back from them. During their visit, a suspected faulty salt cell was replaced without resolving the problem. Notably, when the tub is powered off and then on, the blue lights activate, and saltwater settings are temporarily accessible, but any attempt to adjust the lights immediately negates this functionality. I apologize for the lengthy post but wanted to ensure a comprehensive understanding of the situation. If anyone has encountered similar issues or has insights into potential fixes, your input would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance for your help!
  28. Hello. Anyone know if it’s possible to connect a heat pump relay to the gecko controller relay so that it can control my heat pump. Currently I get a flow error on my heat pump when the filter pump is off. As soon as the filter pump starts the flow error goes away and the heat pump starts working. I want to control via the IN.GRID but apparently that is only possible on a IN.YJ-V3 with unified core software. Trying to find a better solution than relying on the flow error to stop the heat pump as not sure if this will cause other issues.
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