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  1. Yesterday
  2. We have a 1996 Hot Spot spa, model Z - round, 4 jets. We can't get any air to come out of the jets any more - turning the "Hydrotherapy Jet Air Control Valve" (as the manual calls it) no longer has any effect. I have removed the knob on top of the valve, and see what's shown in the photo. It looks like the valve itself is in the centre. Above it is a ring with four small tabs by which one can turn it. The ring looks like it retains the valve. I'm wondering how I can remove the valve. I'm able to turn the ring slightly by pushing the tiny tabs with a pair of screwdrivers, though the little tabs are in danger of being removed by the screwdrivers!. I'm able turn what must be the valve (labeled "Valve" in photo - in the centre) all the way around- that has no effect on adding any air to the flow from the jets. Can anyone help? How can I remove the valve? Thanks very much for any help!
  3. There's no water moving through the system, upon closer inspection. The tubes to and from the heater are slightly translucent, and you can see water just sitting in the lines. My guess is the pump isn't doing its job, so the pump heats up stagnate water until the high limit trips. When I reset, the pump engages, water shoots back and forth, and then it sputters out, and the high limit trips. While on, it just hums. I tapped it with a wrench, and the hum changed a little bit, but nothing engaged. It's a fairly old silent flo 5000 pump. Probably needs replaced. I did some more troubleshooting after I posted this, and now think the circulation pump has gone off. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks for the reply!
  4. Last week
  5. I am going on vacation for a month and don't want to leave the hot tub turned on. Can I just drain it and turn it off?
  6. Replacing the Jet Pump motor on my 2004 Caldera Spa, and cannot get the pump section off of the motor. There doesn't seem to be any bolts/screw/nuts I can loosen to remove it.
  7. Hi, I have a Hotspring Jetsetter (Model J)The Red Power light is on. the Green Ready light is on until 82F. If I select 83F and temperatures above 83F, the Ready lamp is off. No blinking lamps.And the water remains warm (after a week it reaches about 90F)Thanks to Amos' help: We found a fried relay contacts. I fixed the relay board with a new relay. (The old relay still worked and the new one works...)I checked the voltage out of the relay board: It sends 110V to the heater.The heater doesn't heat much: Water out of the pump is just warm (~90F) not hot. But not completely cold.The 2 LED on the controller board are on (LIM OK & HEATER ON)I measured the resistance of the heater and I found 0 Ohms! (I was expecting 9 Ohms... R=V/I. 6kw) But I plugged the heater directly in the 110V with a cord I created: The breaker did not trip.What do I check next? I guess I need to get a better multimeter and do an amp reading on the heater right? Or The High-Limit Thermistor?Thanks for your helpPictures posted here:
  8. I have a bullfrog hottub where it would not properly keep temp. So a new mother board was needed. Cost to replace is around $1000. This happened outside in the winter and I drained the hottub just with the regular drain and did not pump out any water at the bottom. Presumably, it froze. I filled the hottub at it is keeping water fairly well (loses like 1-2 inches a week, which it did before I had this problem anyway). The company who was going to replace the motherboard said the hottub is ruined because it froze and therefore something would have broke and it would leak. He also indicated it would leak a lot quicker if it was hot. The water is still cold. He suggests replacing the hottub with something else. Do people think it is worth repairing the motherboard? I figured if something was really wrong it should have drained itself fully by now, not just lose a couple of inches, at most, in a week. Hottub is I think like 5-10 years old.
  9. Two thoughts: Jet 2 is often a single speed pump. If that's the case, you should get a cycle of ON- OFF. ON-OFF. If it's a two speed pump and the high speed is out, your cycle would be ON - OFF - OFF. ON - OFF - OFF. In other words, you would have to press the button two times to get it to come on at low speed. If you're sure you have a two speed pump, I would swap the red and black wires for the pump on the circuit board (essentially connecting the high speed on the pump to the low speed circuit, and the low speed channel of the pump to the high speed circuit on the circuit board). If that gave you a high speed only condition, than the assumption would be that the circuit board control of high speed is not working, probably a bad relay. If that didn't give you high speed, but you still had low speed, that would be an indication the problem is at the pump, since both channels on the pump work correctly as long as it's getting power from the circuit board. As to the loss of power at your jets (I'm assuming you mean the Jet 1 controlled jets) I would first check the diverter valves and see if one of them is closed, or moved from where you normally keep them. If JETS1 is plumbed to two groups of jets and the diverter valve is centered, you would get equal power at both groups. Move the diverter valve left or right and you would change the balance of power. You can also loose power due to a damaged impeller, or obstructions in the plumbing. Does the pump "sound" "normal?"
  10. Is the pump working normally? Sounds like the heater is tripping off on high limit.
  11. interesting, thank you!
  12. I have a 2004 Hot springs Vista Hot Tub that has been working well until recently. I noticed the jets lost a little power and was wondering if I could get some direction on where to start trouble-shooting. What I have done so far is tested jet 1, both low and high speed worked (pressed button 2 times), when I tried the same test on jet 2 only the low speed worked. When I pushed the jet 2 button a second time it would not click over to high. Can anyone help me diagnose this issue or recommend any other tests. Thank you
  13. Hello, I bought a house 1 year ago, and it came with a HotSprings Grandee Spa, which worked great even after I refilled it back in April 2016. From the looks of it, it was manufacturd in 1999 or 2000. Anyway, I recently refilled the spa, and noticed that the heater wasn't working. TO be honest, I am not sure if the heater had been working before the refill, or if it stopped once I'd refilled it, because we hadn't used the spa in a couple of months. When I reset the heater, it clicks and clacks, I can see water moving through the inlet and outlet lines, but it kind of moves back and forth. Then, the high limit sensor trips, everything shuts off, and the power light flashes until I turn the breaker off for a minute or so, then turn it back on. Here is what I have done so far, for troubleshooting: 1. I tried resetting the spa and heater, with the filters removed. 2. I checked the water line coming from the heater for blockages or air...when I loosened the hose, water flowed freely from both the heater end, and the spa end. 3. I checked the voltage on the heater relay board, and it was perfectly fine. I noticed that when I hit the reset button on the heater, I hear the sound of water flowing, I see water move through the tubed going to and from the heater, there is clicking and clacking, the green "ready light" lights up, for a second, then the high limit sensor trips. What do you folks think? Is it the entire heater? THe high limit sensors? The thermostats? A blockage of buildup somewhere? I'm hoping to diagnose this without having to hire a tech. Putting this out on the forums is my last resort. -Chad
  14. Well, with the benefit of a week's use and energy monitoring, everything has been normal - knock on wood. I neglected to mention that I didn't bother checking voltage because once it stopped heating intermittently, and went to not heating at ALL. Once I got to the point of close inspection, I was able to observe a tiny scorch mark on the front near a relay, which I've read on here is a classic sign of heater relay board death, so I replaced it. I have the service records for this spa, and it appears that the heater relay board has been replaced once before, in 2008. Then, though it is not dated, there is a handwritten note about needing either a new heater relay board or a field repair on the heater relay board, with what appears to be the owner's notes from a phone call giving a quote for replacement vs. "field repair." That note was "later" in the stack of service records, perhaps in the 2012 timeframe judging from the papers before and after it. This, along with the obviously not factory original soldering I observed on the back of the board when I ultimately removed it, leads me to wonder if perhaps in that case the owner opted for a "field repair" on the board, which was of the original style with the flag terminal connections for white and black from the heater. I do not know what impact this may have had, and still wonder if intermittent heating may rear its head again later, but so far, the 'new style' - I believe 4th generation - heater relay board is working, the tub has kept temp automatically since Sunday, and with the light replacement, the only base functionality issue with the tub is those dead LCD segments in the temp readout. I do expect to have to replace other parts at some point - it is a 2002 spa after all, fifteen years old, though it has been serviced in the past, which helps. I'm handy enough to do that, but everything is working on this tub for now, so I'm going to probably turn my attention to reconditioning or replacing the one (sticky) VersaSsage jet and reattach a couple of slats that were knocked off the sides in transit. Thank you, ScubaDave, for your helpful posts!
  15. The FAS-DPD bromine test is a little time sensitive. If you let the dye powder sit in the sample water, it will get darker and take more drops to titrate to clear. If you are new to performing the test, you might get a result that is slightly higher than the actual reading. Once you get used to doing the test, you can use 10 ml of sample water so that 1 drop = 1.25 ppm. Put the R-0870 DPD powder into the sample while already swirling, and then while still swirling and as soon as possible after adding the powder, add the drops of R-0872 (FAS) reagent as quickly as is consistent with getting good drop size. I put the vial on a flat surface and swirl with my right hand while putting the drops in with my left hand. To make the testing process much easier you could purchase a Taylor Speed Stir. It will also make the TA and CH tests easier, and make your friends think you are a real chemistry geek. You can get the speed stir from Amato Industries for under $30.
  16. I just received my Taylor K 2106 and it showed a level of 11ppm for bromine!!! while the test strips still showed maybe 1 or 2 at most. And I didn't change anything since I thought we would drain thats a crazy difference! So I guess I don't have a problem to keep my bromine levels up
  17. JohnFowler: You should put your question as a separate topic to attract more responses. How do you know it overheats? Does it give an error message? What's the message? What's the temperature when that occurs?
  18. We usually put silicone around the back of the fixture, on the cabinet side, so when you tighten the mounting nut, the silicone seals it on. But on the wet side, it's just gasket and the light fixture.
  19. Right you are! They told me they cannot order just the overlay as a separate item. Ended up buying the entire control assembly from my local dealer. They matched a price I found on the web and saved me the shipping charges, which was pretty cool. Everything is back together and working fine again! :-)
  20. Thanks ScubaDave. I didn't realize they were that cheap, your probably right its just better to replace. So the gasket and the screws are really all that seals the fixture? I was expecting to put some type of glue/silicone around it as well to ensure it doesn't leak!
  21. I have a dream maker Model X5H-UH5-DMI-GG-F spa. overheats a lot. sometime I can turn it off a few hours, or fill it with cold water and it will re-set do you think this is a sensor or circuit board problem?
  22. Of course, if water is leaking through the overlay, repairing the circuit board isn't enough - you need a new overlay or it's just going to get wet again.
  23. I'm surprised you have to replace "all" of the jets after 7 years, but if they're popping out and breaking, you gotta do it. Bromine is less caustic than chlorine. If the tub's working fine and this is the first money you're putting into it after 7 years for a little brittle plastic, the parts are cheap enough that I'd say whatever you're doing is okay. I guess you could call me an "avid" scuba diver, been doing it for about 30 years. I live in New Jersey and do most of my diving out here, although I try to get to Mexico or the Caribbean each winter. I find the North East shipwrecks a much more interesting dive than looking at pretty colored fishes. There's a small clique of us hot tub repairmen/scuba divers in my neck of the woods. Most of the other guys also dive swimming pools to repair leaks. Right now, I've got plenty of hot tubs to take care of.
  24. Thanks for your reply. I asked my wife what she uses as she is the one who takes care of the hot tub, it is Bromine (which i'm sure has chlorine). Also looked at the bill of sale and it has been 7 years. Tub runs year round, used 3 - 4 times per week, water changed on regular basis, The "wear and tear comment" came from the dealer when I went to get new O rings for the jets and he noticed some of them would not open/close and the plastic around the direction nozzle was breaking. Good for sales I guess No problem with the air flow so will leave that alone. Curious with your on-line name - both my wife and I scuba dive - (advanced open water certified) - head to the Caribbean for 8 weeks each year as way to cold up here in northern Ontario Canada
  25. Fill out the satisfaction survey on the TAT website get a chance to win a luxury package value over 58,000 baht from now until 30 June 2017 Click
  26. Greetings everyone, I've been researching on how to best take care of my new 400 gallon Cedar Hot Tub. It's just over two months old. I've been using chlorine for sanitization, trying to keep it within the recommended 1-2 ppm, and never greater than 3 ppm. Too low I have a sanitation problem - Too high I risk wood damage. It has an ionizer installed which is not being used yet until the tannins are no longer leaching into the water.**1 The tannins are now vastly reduced. The water looks clear to me now. Even the filter canister water looks clear. It used to be a very brown tea. I've done 8 drains and this is my 9th fill. We've been very cautious with the amount of chlorine. Perhaps a little too cautious? I'm using 6% bleach (though I had been using dichlor before). I got a new filter and start fresh - other than cleaning out my pipes. So here's my question: When do I know I can switch from chlorine as my main sanitizer to using the ionizer (plus MPS)? When my chlorine demand is low? Well, I figured after the tannins were no longer visible that I'd have a lower chlorine demand. But it's still at 100% over a day's time. I'm currently doing testing every half hour, and I'm getting a chlorine demand of around 0.5-0.6 ppm of free chlorine per hour (using the Taylor K-2006). I had an idea to segregate some of the hot-tub water from the wood by placing it in a clean plastic 5 gallon bucket. I'm comparing thdse two results, and I get nearly the same chlorine demand. That's whether I have a fresh fill and new filter, or now after four days and a bather or two. So, my conclusion is there's something in the water itself that the chlorine is eating up. It's not the wood itself. So are those still just the tannins, even though I really can't see them? Except the scum ball is slightly stained. Or could I have something growing in there, and do I need to worry about how to resolve that? Second question: With a 450 gallon wooden tub, I am unable to both honor the 5 fluid ounces of 6% bleach per person-hour and keep the free-chlorine level under 3 ppm for that volume. Half that, just 2.5 fl oz, gives me 3 ppm. 5 fl oz would bring me to 6 ppm from zero. Am I be risking wood damage by the temporary spike in free chlorine well above the recommended 2 ppm before (or after?) soaking? In no way am I currently able to retain a free chlorine level above 1 ppm and below 2 ppm unless I live the rest of my hours by the tub. (I asked my wife but she thinks I should keep my day job ) Final question: How long can I let the tub go to zero free chlorine, and not worry? I test and dose it up as often as I can, but if I leave it with 3 ppm at the start of the work day, it goes to zero before I can get home. I am looking forward to getting the ionizer started up. I don't mind using chlorine, but at least that system works automatically. **1 "For the first few months of the life of a tub it will leach tannins into the water, and these wreak havoc with your water chemistry. They will essentially absorb any type of sanitizer that you put in the water, whether it's chlorine ions or metal ions, and early in the life of the tub the tannins can literally overwhelm the latter."
  27. That's a hard question to answer because they use different types of air controls. You probably have a removable handle mounted on top of a screw on cap. There's an o-ring under that. You could conceivably buy a new valve and just use the "guts" to replace what you have. But I wouldn't bother unless there was a problem with your air. The fact that your jets are falling apart after only 6 years tells me you must love chlorine. To have all your jets fail in 6 years is a little more than "normal wear and tear."
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